Sloppy Steering Column Fix

So I spoke too soon. Just took the truck out today and the alignment/steering wheel is not centered. When going straight the steering wheel is at about 11:30-11:45 oclock. Its slight but noticeable. Question to you is, when you did your shaft swap, did you adjust your steering wheel at all? Or did you just leave it as is (thus off center with the new lower shaft installed) and then get an alignment?

What I did was (while the truck was parked straight) I removed the steering wheel and replaced the shaft. When I put the steering wheel back on where it was originally at it was off center far to the right, around 2oclock. So I removed the wheel and reinstalled it at as close as possible to 12 oclock. At the time it seemed sufficient but after driving it around today I can see its off center now. Im trying to determine if i should put the wheel back and then have it aligned or just get it aligned as is.

 

You can adjust each tie rod a tiny bit....equal on each side....
to carefully precision align the wheel...

those small amounts wont make a difference in track geometry or range of motion....

put the steering at wheel a 12 oclock...and then adjust to point the wheels forward.....but Equally

one goes out half turn.....other side has to go in half turn...

and both wont be perfectly straight forward.....they should both be 'toed in' slightly....

most likey your rack is not perfectly centered for range anyways....
unless its the original with the original tie ends...


Careful when you adjust these.....if that inner tie rod's lock washer is not staked out correctly.....you could bust the inner rod loose from the rack......
seen that happen a few times........but that would of come apart eventually anyways...

 

I had a new steering rack and all new suspension (factory type, not off road crazy shit) done almost 2 years ago. Hopefully youre right and all I gotta do is make those slight adjustments.

 

This all super simple stuff....

most important is make sure you got a good alignment and dont have a constant pull or fight to keep wheels going straight....
thats what eats up racks....


That and changing the fluid every couple / three years.....
....and new gates hoses every 7yrs.....after that they start secretly delaminating inside....heat and whatnot.....
nothin lasts forever......

 

Also if the inner tie rod spins too easy.....that means its wore out...
should be significant resistance to spin that.....

 

Ok so just to be sure im following.... I would first loosen the tie rod nut, then turn the inner tie rod?

 

Pull / slide off the constant tension clamp....
put a little silicone spray on that boot opening...

when you spin that shaft....make sure its not loosening where bolts into the rack...
its got to spin on its ball joint....and if its new.....its gonna to be tight....
be gentle with it.....take your time...

if that pops loose and spins freely from the rack end where it screws in, you'll have to slide the boot off the other end....and retighten that, and restake that fang washer...SO SPIN THAT SHAFT SLOW AND CAREFUL....feel that joint slip.....

If you turn that half a turn its barely perceivable....
full turn on each side you'd definitely notice....
soooo...somewhere in-between there....
baby steps....

 

great thanks man! Imma be trying this later this week.

 

Sorry late, but yeah I just left the steering wheel off center and took it in for an alignment. But I let them know the reason was that I needed my steering wheel straightened back up, and all good... I wouldn't take it apart again, just leave as is now if you do decide to take it in, it's just that slight adjustment

I've done my own alignment before after a lift/adjustment, but eventually take it to the shop anyway because I don't trust myself LOL just don't really want to wait till my tires are worn weird to learn I was off

 

Resurrecting this thread. I did the tack-weld steering shaft slop fix last week. Super easy and super helpful! I'd encourage everyone to reach underneath and grab the steering shaft near the firewall, then turn the wheel back and forth and feel for play. Both of my trucks have/had it. The slip joint in the shaft is designed to collapse in the event the steering mechanism gets shoved cabin-ward in an accident. But the joint pins fail and causes slop in the shaft. My truck could not get a straight steering wheel in alignments because the wheel had slop.

The small tack welds in most peoples' opinions should still give in an accident. I suspect so because they're up against two large bolts holding the whole works to the dash...

Anyway, post #42 in the thread linked below has the best instructions. It's literally 25 minutes to get the whole steering column out. Then quick weld, and replace. GL~