SMKYTXN's Build

While you're checking your grounds make sure you check across the coax and make sure the cover isn't torn or rubbed through. I've heard of that leading to high SWR.

 

i know it affects it. i was saying it shouldn't affect the tunability. meaning that with an otherwise propper setup, you should be able to get the same swr out of a 2' firestik, and a 102'' whip.

check for kinks as well.

any excess cable you have; coil it in a circle, and put a few zip ties around the coil to keep it circular. what you don't want is a figure eight coil, where the coax crosses itself at all kinds of funky angles.

it does sound like a ground issue though if you constantly get a 3.0 reading.

 

and if you do circle some coax, be sure to make as big of a circle as possible. I agree completely on the ground being the issue.

 

Removed the flares, filled the holes with home made plugs, and derped the wheels black.

 

Man... I love your truck... the idea of modifying the plugs is great!

Whenever I decide if I like better the truck without the flares, I'm gonna do that!!!

 

I picked up one of the DVRyourcar cameras recently. With the new addition to the 12volt outlet I decided it was time to hardwire the camera and the radar detector.

The DVRyourcar system doesn't automatically come with the hardwire option, it has to be purchased separately. I didn't like the idea of using the fuse tap and the large 12volt adapter that came with the kit so I modified mine.

Here's the power adapter. It drops the 12v down to 5v. I pried it apart to see what was inside. It turns out the kit has two fuses, one at the fuse tap, and a second inside the adapter.



The end cap on the adapter unscrews to reveal the fuse and then allows you to pry it apart.



This is what's inside. The spring is the power lead and the black wire is the ground.





Since I'm hardwiring this I don't need the part that plugs into the 12v outlet so I cut it off. I still need the housing for the converter though.



I desoldered the black wire and the spring and soldered in two wires.



Putting it all back together.





The nice thing about this board is the red led on the back. I was able to test my connections by just touching the wires to the battery. The led lit up just fine, success!

All taped up and ready for install. I did add an inline fuse to the power wire.



It's hard to tell in the picture, but I taped the adapter to the roof with double stick tape. This is looking towards the driver side above the headliner.



I won't post the wiring pictures, you can learn all you need to about getting the power from this thread. I powered both the camera and the radar detector off of the same green wire and ran both grounds to the white wire with the black stripe. I figure if I can plug three 12volt accessories into the cigarette lighter that it will be safe to run both of these off of the same power source.


Here's the finished product.





I'm happy with the results, and extremely happy to finally be rid of the dangling wires.

 

nice! good for wheeling, and for any traffic incidences

 

lot going on there with the rear view mirror.

 

My view isn't any more obstructed with the addition of the camera than it was with just the radar detector. With the screen on the camera folded up my vision isn't that obstructed.

 

indeed, looks tits

and even if it was you could just look at the screen

 

I installed a 10lb fire extinguisher today using a protank 5lb co2 tank bracket. This was the only place that didn't interfere with what I normally put in the bed.

 

Here's the progress on my version of the scuba mod. I decided to bring all of the breathers to a single filter. The problem I had was finding an off the shelf filter, so I built one.














The plan is to leave the top open with a 1/2" hole for the intake. In the future when I put the snorkel in I'll route an air line to the intake.

 

More people should really be carrying fire extinguishers. We'll done

 

I feel the same way that's why I mounted one in my truck

 

The breather box is finished, now I have to run all of the lines to the box. I was able to route the rear diff last night before it got too dark. Here's the temporary location of the breather.

 

Definitely getting closer to being locked front and rear. I'm pretty sure I have all the parts now.

RD111 for the front

$1,110 RD129 Air Locking Differential

RD129 for the rear

$229 CKSA12 Air Locker Accessories

CKSA12 ARB compressor
Master install kit from ECGS for the front and rear
Used 4cyl front diff with 4:10's
Used third with 4:10's

I think that about covers it. The RD129 was the final piece, and it showed up today.

 

Niiiiice

 

Get the lockers installed for that trip?