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Snow + salt + uniball and coilovers question

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by glassman, Apr 14, 2011.

  1. Apr 14, 2011 at 9:41 PM
    #1
    glassman

    glassman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hi all,

    I'm --><-- this close to getting a set of TC UCAs and some rr coilovers for my truck. My (hopefully) last question is with respect to rust. I'm stuck up in the northeast for a couple years (lovely place, minus the cold), and am just a little worried about rust, in particularly the uniballs on the UCAs.

    A small search through the forums here didn't give me too much info, so I was hoping some folks who lived in this type of climate could give me some help. Does the salt (or water) just kill them, and they rust like crazy? Is it not that bad if you do some upkeep (if this is true, how)? Is there any way to help prevent this from happening (if yes-how)? Finally, how much of a pain is it to replace the uniballs on these if need be (that is, how much time/cash, since I would take it to the shop)?

    Thanks for any info on this. Really looking forward to getting this stuff, but want to calm my fears...

    cheers.
     
  2. Apr 14, 2011 at 9:47 PM
    #2
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    I like to spray my c/o's down with silicone spray after every wash. It doesn't do much as a lubricant IMO but it provides a good layer of film for grime to stick to, instead of my c/os (makes washing next time much easier). Plus it makes 'em look nice and shiney again.

    As for the Uniball, someone else here can give you better/real experience than me, but some sort of solvent followed by a rinse and a re-lubricate is probably about all you can do.
     
  3. Apr 15, 2011 at 3:29 AM
    #3
    Tepidy

    Tepidy Well-Known Member

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    Toytec Coil Overs 3.00" DSM UCA's (Desert Products) TSB 4 Leaf w/AAL by Pro Comp Bilstein 5100 rear 1"ToyTec SwayBar Drops 1" diff drop Detroit Trutrac Rear Diff Nitro 4.56 Gears Doug Thornley Header MagnaFlow Cat Back Exhaust Custom Built Rear Plate Bumper Custom Built Front Plate Bumper 4X Innovations Rock Sliders ATO Front Skid BAMF Rear Diff Skid Uniden 510XL Pro CB Raceline Renegades BF Goodrich Mud Terrains KM2's 265x75x16 WeatherTechs Rear Diff breather Relocate Intake Resonator Removed Yellow Wire Mod
    I have stainless uniballs and spray them with WD-40 weekly. Seems to work pretty good.
     
  4. Apr 15, 2011 at 10:52 AM
    #4
    macgyver

    macgyver Well-Known Member

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    This ^^^^
     
    agunday21 likes this.
  5. Apr 15, 2011 at 10:58 AM
    #5
    mjp2

    mjp2 Living vicariously though myself Moderator

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  6. Apr 15, 2011 at 11:57 AM
    #6
    Tepidy

    Tepidy Well-Known Member

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    Toytec Coil Overs 3.00" DSM UCA's (Desert Products) TSB 4 Leaf w/AAL by Pro Comp Bilstein 5100 rear 1"ToyTec SwayBar Drops 1" diff drop Detroit Trutrac Rear Diff Nitro 4.56 Gears Doug Thornley Header MagnaFlow Cat Back Exhaust Custom Built Rear Plate Bumper Custom Built Front Plate Bumper 4X Innovations Rock Sliders ATO Front Skid BAMF Rear Diff Skid Uniden 510XL Pro CB Raceline Renegades BF Goodrich Mud Terrains KM2's 265x75x16 WeatherTechs Rear Diff breather Relocate Intake Resonator Removed Yellow Wire Mod
    Thats very interesting to me. I use wd40 on all my guide rods (linear bearings ride on) , on my weightlifting equipment I own a gym. If you can find out more info and send it to me I would appreciate it. thanks
     
  7. Apr 15, 2011 at 12:11 PM
    #7
    Tepidy

    Tepidy Well-Known Member

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    Toytec Coil Overs 3.00" DSM UCA's (Desert Products) TSB 4 Leaf w/AAL by Pro Comp Bilstein 5100 rear 1"ToyTec SwayBar Drops 1" diff drop Detroit Trutrac Rear Diff Nitro 4.56 Gears Doug Thornley Header MagnaFlow Cat Back Exhaust Custom Built Rear Plate Bumper Custom Built Front Plate Bumper 4X Innovations Rock Sliders ATO Front Skid BAMF Rear Diff Skid Uniden 510XL Pro CB Raceline Renegades BF Goodrich Mud Terrains KM2's 265x75x16 WeatherTechs Rear Diff breather Relocate Intake Resonator Removed Yellow Wire Mod
    i have heard that spray on white lithium grease is supposed to be good. I am also wondering if Break Free CLP would be good
     
  8. Apr 15, 2011 at 9:31 PM
    #8
    glassman

    glassman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thanks for all the info guys. despite living in the northeast, i think i'm going to go ahead and buy some coilovers + ucas. if i don't spend the money i've saved for my truck on my truck, i know i'll just end up blowing it on other crap that is useless.

    but, i have certainly decided to get stainless steel uniballs, particularly after seeing some of those threads posted. thanks in advance for that, i'll keep you posted on how they work out rust-wise. is there any specific lubricant that i should be putting on them (and how often), aside from just water-resistant stuff?

    one question i have is, does anyone have any advice on how to keep coilovers from rusting in the various parts? i've noticed a number of pictures with rust on the threads above the coils, and on the connections to the reservoirs. is there any kind of coating that people use that doesn't harm them, and will help to preserve them from rusting?

    thanks again for all the advice, it's a pre-emptive life saver.
     
  9. Apr 16, 2011 at 4:00 AM
    #9
    Tepidy

    Tepidy Well-Known Member

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    Toytec Coil Overs 3.00" DSM UCA's (Desert Products) TSB 4 Leaf w/AAL by Pro Comp Bilstein 5100 rear 1"ToyTec SwayBar Drops 1" diff drop Detroit Trutrac Rear Diff Nitro 4.56 Gears Doug Thornley Header MagnaFlow Cat Back Exhaust Custom Built Rear Plate Bumper Custom Built Front Plate Bumper 4X Innovations Rock Sliders ATO Front Skid BAMF Rear Diff Skid Uniden 510XL Pro CB Raceline Renegades BF Goodrich Mud Terrains KM2's 265x75x16 WeatherTechs Rear Diff breather Relocate Intake Resonator Removed Yellow Wire Mod
    thanks brother. Let us know how the Tri-Flow works out. Im going to try breakfree or gunslick on mine
     
  10. Apr 16, 2011 at 9:49 AM
    #10
    jacob381

    jacob381 Member

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    whit lithium grease sucks it makes every thing a bitch to clean and is very sticky.
     
  11. Apr 16, 2011 at 12:50 PM
    #11
    glassman

    glassman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thanks for the advice.

    So you actually just spray the teflon crap effectively all over any exposed metal (like the threads on the king's, the uniballs, etc)? I'm hoping maybe some auto parts stores will have some stuff for this kind of thing around here, but I haven't had the time to get out and check yet. I just want to ensure that anything I buy and am told won't hurt anything, does in fact not hurt anything (namely expensive shocks and UCAs...).

    Thanks for all the info so far folks, it's honestly a big help since I'm completely new to this salt destruction. Any more advice is even better!
     
  12. Nov 21, 2016 at 7:44 PM
    #12
    urban

    urban Well-Known Member

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    I have Camburg UCA's and even with cleaning and lubricating them every other tank of gas, which mind you sucks because it's also cold outside, the uni balls only lasted 2 winters before developing a terrible squeak. They are expensive to replace too, $100 for the uniballs, 3 something for the total hardware kit which I bought because the arms are rusted so I am going to take them off and have them powder coated. I really want coil overs but I can't justify spending so much money on something that will also last about 2 years. I've had OME stuff on my truck as long as the UCA's and haven't had a problem with them yet. I would guess that they will be long worn out before environmental conditions destroys them, and even so you won't cry if $560 dollars in shocks get a bit rusty. You will however be upset when $4k of shocks get rusty.

    If you do go the coilover route, I would completely dissemble them, cover the threads with tape, paint everything with a tough clear sealant of some kind, and then keep the treads covered with a thin coating of anti seize. I am not as familiar with the design of the TC UCA's but I plan either printing a cap for the top of the exposed ball, or if I procrastinate that and still put them on I intend use some duct tape and the bottom of a solo cup or something. Water and road slush that gets on the top off the balls is the worst because it pushes all the dirt and salt down into the uniballs. My personal estimate is that normal street use in winter, 90% of all the elemental damage comes from the top face of the uniball, not the bottom.

    Thick and goopy lubricants are verrry bad. Never Never Never use goopy stuff on parts that move and are exposed to the environment. Do not put them on your shock rods, uniballs, or any machines surfaces. Dirt will stick to it and then when the parts move all this dirt will ruin uniballs and shock seals.
     
  13. Nov 21, 2016 at 9:14 PM
    #13
    58 Siesta

    58 Siesta fox in the hen house

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    Why not go with something more weather tolerant like Light Racing or JBA? Just curious. Salt was a factor in my choosing LR UCAs.
     
  14. Nov 21, 2016 at 9:15 PM
    #14
    urban

    urban Well-Known Member

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    Honestly I should but I planed to go mid travel later on. I like them otherwise though and I think they will be fine so long as I keep the tops covered.
     
  15. Nov 21, 2016 at 9:17 PM
    #15
    58 Siesta

    58 Siesta fox in the hen house

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    I haven't read stats on any uniball UCA with as much travel as the Light Racing UCAs.
     
  16. Nov 21, 2016 at 9:19 PM
    #16
    urban

    urban Well-Known Member

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    For my uses at the current moment that probably would have been a more practical choice but I bought the shiny stuff and here we are.

    Edit:

    Camburg is also a very reputable company and their kinetic trucks are sexy as all hell. It's still probably my favorite part on my truck.
     
  17. Nov 22, 2016 at 6:44 AM
    #17
    Bruce988jl

    Bruce988jl Well-Known Member

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    Anyone ever tried fluid film on the suspension components?
    (Not as a lubricant for the joints just as a protective layer to prevent rust)
     
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