Some questions about swapping my suspension

2011 Off Road Double Cab Short Bed here. I’m having some issues with my truck that I believe are related to the suspension, some squeaking and vibrating, plus the shocks are pretty worn out and I think I’d like a small upgrade anyways. I’ve read everything I can possibly find about 2nd gen suspension and lifts on this site, but I feel like I still have a few questions.

I’m just looking at the Bilstein 5100 set. I believe I can use the stock coils with those, correct? And still lift the truck a bit? My main question is, I understand the stations on the front shocks to lift, (0”, 0.85”, 1.75”, 2.5”), and I’m looking at either 1.75 or 2.5—but what would I need exactly on the rear of the truck (with the rear 5100s) to level out the truck (as close as I can)? I believe I have the stock leaf pack on there right now. Does anyone know or have suggestions for what I would need to add in the rear to level out the truck at each of the 3 lifted stations? Or especially the 1.75 or 2.5 (don’t think I’ll do 0.85, but not sure yet)? Add a leaf? Sizes? Or a kit that solves this question? Thank you.

And then another question would be does anyone know anywhere I could order the 5100s that is reasonable/a good deal right now/currently? Any tips? All the links I've clicked on in the forums are dead...

And then lastly, so I think I have a body lift on my truck right now (see pictures). It came this way when I bought it used. I’m pretty positive I’ll put on the 5100s, but in deciding the height of the lift, I really like the height it is at now— does anyone know a way I could measure exactly the amount of lift I have now? Like maybe comparing the stock height to my current height? I just don’t know those numbers and how to exactly do that. Thank you. Sorry for the length.

 

Bump.

 

I think you may be confusing a body lift with your shock spacers (two entirely different things... Body lifts consist of spacers on the cab (body) mounts that raise the cab & bed higher above the frame).

As for determining the amount of lift you have now, measure the thickness of your spacers. The spacers up front will have approx a 2:1 lift ratio, the rear will be a 1:1 lift ratio. So if those front spacers are, for example, 1.25" thick, they should have lifted the truck 2.5" (this is assuming the shocks/springs are stock).
If you're looking to stay at 2" lift or above, you should also look into a set of aftermarket upper control arms and extended-travel (a.k.a. mid-travel) shocks to maintain a little bit more of your suspension's downtravel (this is the amount of movement from static resting height to fully-extended or drooped. The higher you lift it, the less downtravel you'll have, which can cause a jarring ride if it's not enough).

For the rear, options include keeping the spacer block you have, add-a-leafs (might stiffen the ride slightly), new (lifted) leaf springs, shackle inversion, or any combination of the above.
IMO new leaf springs would be the ideal way to go (the Icon RXT leafs consistently get good reviews and come with an extra leaf for three different lift-height/load-carrying options).


Hope that helps

 

As @4x4junkie mentioned, spacers give a 2:1 when put ontop of struts, the rear blocks are a 1:1 ratio. Tacomas are a roughly 2" rake from front to back, which means if you do the 5100s and eliminate the front block ontop of the coilovers you have now, you wont need to adjust the rear. If you do the 2.5 in the front, you will want either a 1/2" shim or a 1" block under the back leaf springs to level it with the front.

2" is the mark for UCAs being "necessary". Alignments usually cannot be dialed in on factory UCAs after lifting more than 2" which is why this is recommended, alos they are a longer UCA so that at full droop on a larger coilover (6112 or other 2.5" coilover shock diameter setups) you dont hit the coilover.

If your truck is brand new, a 3 leaf AAL kit is nice and works well, if your truck has any substantial mileage or wear on the suspension I would recommend replacing the leafs entirely, eliminating the need for a block and going with a setup that will correct the height with proper geometry and no spacers, such as Icons RXT pack that with the AAL allows you to choose from 3 different height/weight settings with the same leaf pack.

Let us know @OffroadAlliance.com if we can assist or you need any help sourcing these parts as we are major dealers for brands such as Toytec, Icon, Bilstein, King and more!

 

@4x4junkie Dang, thank you so much for all that info. It is extremely helpful.
You are totally right—I am confusing a body lift with the shock spacers, thanks for setting me right. So NO I do not have a body lift currently, sorry about that.

Thanks for telling me those lift ratios, that really helps. Makes total sense for how to measure what I'm at currently.
And thanks for the suggestions for the rear, looks like I have a bit to chose from. I noticed you said adding a leaf may stiffen the ride slightly, so do you think keeping/swapping a block in the back is a "softer" solution than that?

And thank you @OffroadAlliance.com extremely helpful as well. I don't a ton of money at the moment unfortunately, so I can't afford new UCAs, so sounds like it is a bad idea to go over 2". The thing that worries/concerns me is, judging by the shock spacers in the front and the block in the back, it looks like the truck is maybe over 2" already, and the former owner definitely has the stock UCAs on there. Dang and I've been driving like this for 2 years now! Ya'll think that could be what is causing some of my vibration and suspension issues?

Thanks so much for the rake info. So yeah I'm going to remove that shock spacer up front and put on the 5100s. And sorry, just to clarify completely, let's say I put the 5100s on the front at the 1.75" station, you're saying I won't need anything on the back and it will be pretty level correct?

Yeah...I got a lot of miles, just went over 200k, so a new leaf pack maybe in order...

 

I would say if $$$ is tight, keep the rear blocks for the time being... They're already there, not too ridiculously tall, and good chance it'll match up well with whatever front lift (shocks) you put on. As time goes on you can decide later whether you want to swap them out for new leaf springs or not.

As for the vibration, the number of possible causes is almost endless, although among the more common ones is the rear driveshaft due to the lift. Lowering the center carrier bearing bracket should help some, though it might not eliminate it entirely... (it's often known to have vibration even stock w/no lift, the lift just exacerbates it).
Another common vibration source is the front differential driverside needle bearing. This one usually rears its ugly self with shock/spacer lifts (especially ones above 2"). Search "ECGS Bushing" for a solution.

 

@4x4junkie Ahhh ok, cool, I'm down to keep the block back there. If it doesn't look lopsided, and if no one thinks that'll damage anything.
Thanks.

Yeah, I know, you are right, vibrations are tough to hunt down. I guess even if it's not THE cause, sounds like a lift above 2" on stock UCAs wasn't a good idea, and could've hurt something/thrown something off, yeah?

And yeah, I had another thread like last year where tons of people let me know about the needle bearing. Definitely going to check that out now that I have more time as well.

 

@OffroadAlliance.com Sorry, another question, if I'm not mistaken the way the 5100s can change lift is by changing the position of a movable stop at the bottom of the shocks, which raises the coils, right? Does this route to lift operate at the same 2:1 ratio the spacer achieves, or no?

 

Never mind, ignore this question, I realize now it's stupid. They might be operating under a ratio, but the stations on the 5100s are telling you how much average lift the truck will get anyways, so I don't need to worry about it. Sorry.

 

Ok so I found a new question/issue. The blocks I have in the back are 1.5". And I like the idea of leaving them on. However I saw on Bilsteins website that the rear B8 5100s say they fit vehicles with a 0–1" rear lift. So does that mean they won't work, since my rear will be .5" too high?

But on another website it says the

$455 B8 5100 Series Set of Front & Rear Shocks fits 2016-2023 Tacoma with 0-1" Rear Lift | Provides 0-1" Front Lift | Includes TrendsAuto Decal | 24-263108 24-186728

B8 5100 rear shocks can go 0–2". I compared the part numbers and they are the same. Does anyone know what the real answer is?

 

The shocks are meant for a 0-1" lift. They will work on a 1.5" block, but not ride in their ideal ride zone. Being its a gas shock, riding "higher" than ideal ride height means they are not going to dampen the ride properly. 1.5" isnt too bad and I would say youre ok to run that knowing obviously it isnt "ideal", but 2" block I would recommend a different rear shock setup.

As for your front questions, the front perch heights are telling you the height you will achieve (using the factory OEM coil springs). If you use aftermarket springs to account for added weight (if you add a bumper or winch), you want to run the bilsteins on the lowest setting and use the taller spring to achieve the lift, not preloading on the bilstein perches. 2" of less of lift in the front and your UCAs should be fine (mileage wise youre getting there anyway where if they havent been replaced you might want to start thinking about it), when they go or need replacing just take the time then to upgrade.