Soundproofing Wind Noise

happy77m · Nov 7, 2015

Crom said: ↑

Okay here is what I can tell you.

It takes a lot of trial and error to get this right. Too much new insulation makes the OEM seals no good, so a careful balance must be found.

Also, there are irregular surfaces and tolerances that are different between the doors so what works on one door may be off for another.

But in a nutshell, what I did can be used as a guide, just like the OP in this thread.

Also, there are two kinds of adhesives sold with seals. The 3M stuff which is great, and acrylic which is not so great for automotive use. The seals with 3M are much more expensive. I have about $70 into my seal project.

Heat gun was helpful, and sound deadner roller.

I used the 1/2" Trim-lok seals on the bottom of all the doors. AND the 1/4" EPDM on the front door edges.

1/4" EPDM seal on front door edge.

The pear shaped stuff was used on the door edges for the REAR doors.

I also used the 1/4" stuff on the B pillar, and I had to reinforce the OEM seal as it was deforming. The piece that's horizontal in the photo is doing that.

There is a noticeable reduction in wind noise. I'm still going to do the foam rope shit on the windshield once I can find it. My stupid home depot only has the 3/8" stuff.

Like I said before, lots of trial and error! One really helpful tip is to cut 1" test pieces and apply them on the front door, then open the rear door to observe the collapsed profile to make sure the seal is doing its job.

Thank you Warren Thompson for your idea!
Click to expand...

looks great! Thanks for the info!

Crom · Nov 7, 2015

99TacoDriver said: ↑

crom im curious as to why you used the teardrop seals on the rear doors instead of the D shaped foam
Click to expand...

Slightly more of a narrow gap than the front doors and seemed like to much pressure needed to close doors.

I really like how it turned out. Only a Tacoma owner would notice the difference in door closing. Very subtle.

TacoEngineer23 · Jan 10, 2016

Nice write up!

Where did you get your seat covers from?
They're very early gen Tacoma reminiscent. Love it.

12TRDTacoma · Jan 10, 2016

Crom said: ↑

Okay here is what I can tell you.

It takes a lot of trial and error to get this right. Too much new insulation makes the OEM seals no good, so a careful balance must be found.

Also, there are irregular surfaces and tolerances that are different between the doors so what works on one door may be off for another.

But in a nutshell, what I did can be used as a guide, just like the OP in this thread.

Also, there are two kinds of adhesives sold with seals. The 3M stuff which is great, and acrylic which is not so great for automotive use. The seals with 3M are much more expensive. I have about $70 into my seal project.

Heat gun was helpful, and sound deadner roller.

I used the 1/2" Trim-lok seals on the bottom of all the doors. AND the 1/4" EPDM on the front door edges.

1/4" EPDM seal on front door edge.

The pear shaped stuff was used on the door edges for the REAR doors.

I also used the 1/4" stuff on the B pillar, and I had to reinforce the OEM seal as it was deforming. The piece that's horizontal in the photo is doing that.

There is a noticeable reduction in wind noise. I'm still going to do the foam rope shit on the windshield once I can find it. My stupid home depot only has the 3/8" stuff.

Like I said before, lots of trial and error! One really helpful tip is to cut 1" test pieces and apply them on the front door, then open the rear door to observe the collapsed profile to make sure the seal is doing its job.

Thank you Warren Thompson for your idea!
Click to expand...

I like the ideas this thread explores. Can you find these seals you bought all from Home Depot and Lowes @Crom?

Crom · Jan 10, 2016

12TRDTacoma said: ↑

I like the ideas this thread explores. Can you find these seals you bought all from Home Depot and Lowes @Crom?
Click to expand...

Yes, for frost king, trimlok was Amazon.

all the home stores in my area were different. Two home depot's, one Lowes, one dixiline.

None of them carried the same stuff. One home depot had a decent selection.

The home store insulation uses an acrylic adhesive that's not really good for automotive use. It will work, but it will not last like a product that uses 3M stuff.

My auxiliary seals made a huge improvement in my last Death Valley trip. I'm happy with them.

Biscuits · Jan 10, 2016

Crom said: ↑

Yes, for frost king, trimlok was Amazon.

all the home stores in my area were different. Two home depot's, one Lowes, one dixiline.

None of them carried the same stuff. One home depot had a decent selection.

The home store insulation uses an acrylic adhesive that's not really good for automotive use. It will work, but it will not last like a product that uses 3M stuff.

My auxiliary seals made a huge improvement in my last Death Valley trip. I'm happy with them.
Click to expand...

Could you please elaborate on that?

Crom · Jan 10, 2016

Biscuits said: ↑

Could you please elaborate on that?
Click to expand...

What's unclear?

Biscuits · Jan 10, 2016

Crom said: ↑

What's unclear?
Click to expand...

Sorry man, I misunderstood what you wrote. My bad.

12TRDTacoma · Jan 10, 2016

Crom said: ↑

Yes, for frost king, trimlok was Amazon.

all the home stores in my area were different. Two home depot's, one Lowes, one dixiline.

None of them carried the same stuff. One home depot had a decent selection.

The home store insulation uses an acrylic adhesive that's not really good for automotive use. It will work, but it will not last like a product that uses 3M stuff.

My auxiliary seals made a huge improvement in my last Death Valley trip. I'm happy with them.
Click to expand...

Auxiliary seals. Where did you place those? Are they in your pictures?

Crom · Jan 10, 2016

12TRDTacoma said: ↑

Auxiliary seals. Where did you place those? Are they in your pictures?
Click to expand...

Details are in my build thread. Linked in the OP. Watch the video I posted in this thread on post 47. Great starting point, very useful.

Bishop2Queens6 · Jan 10, 2016

Just ordered the frost king seals, trim-lok seals, and Henry Blueskin weather barrier on ebay.

Flhighby · Jan 10, 2016

For the cost, there's no doubt I'll give it a try. A few trips I have in the summer are forest roads. I have a CB, I keep my distance. But I always end up last, with 6 to 12 trucks ahead, and a quarter inch of dirt everywhere !
Thanks, I'll get back in May with dust results

12TRDTacoma · Jan 10, 2016

Crom said: ↑

Details are in my build thread. Linked in the OP. Watch the video I posted in this thread on post 47. Great starting point, very useful.
Click to expand...

I just looked in your build thread and didn't see it. Do you have a link to your post in your build thread?

amkaos · Jan 10, 2016

Crom said: ↑

Excellent educational video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQiZyZi723w
Click to expand...

This was really good.
It looks like it will take some time to do... Plus it's bout zero around here now..

Crom · Jan 10, 2016

12TRDTacoma said: ↑

I just looked in your build thread and didn't see it. Do you have a link to your post in your build thread?
Click to expand...

Sure.

I just read my build thread post, here,

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-getaway-croms-build-and-pics.362772/page-31#post-11101058

And it's basically the same as what I wrote in this thread on post 58.

amkaos · Jan 11, 2016

Crom said: ↑

Okay here is what I can tell you.

It takes a lot of trial and error to get this right. Too much new insulation makes the OEM seals no good, so a careful balance must be found.

Also, there are irregular surfaces and tolerances that are different between the doors so what works on one door may be off for another.

But in a nutshell, what I did can be used as a guide, just like the OP in this thread.

Also, there are two kinds of adhesives sold with seals. The 3M stuff which is great, and acrylic which is not so great for automotive use. The seals with 3M are much more expensive. I have about $70 into my seal project.

Heat gun was helpful, and sound deadner roller.

I used the 1/2" Trim-lok seals on the bottom of all the doors. AND the 1/4" EPDM on the front door edges.

1/4" EPDM seal on front door edge.

The pear shaped stuff was used on the door edges for the REAR doors.

I also used the 1/4" stuff on the B pillar, and I had to reinforce the OEM seal as it was deforming. The piece that's horizontal in the photo is doing that.

There is a noticeable reduction in wind noise. I'm still going to do the foam rope shit on the windshield once I can find it. My stupid home depot only has the 3/8" stuff.

Like I said before, lots of trial and error! One really helpful tip is to cut 1" test pieces and apply them on the front door, then open the rear door to observe the collapsed profile to make sure the seal is doing its job.

Thank you Warren Thompson for your idea!
Click to expand...

to be sure, you chased All the door edges with foam? and the B pillar foam doesnt contact anything ?

Crom · Jan 11, 2016

amkaos said: ↑

to be sure, you chased All the door edges with foam? and the B pillar foam doesnt contact anything ?
Click to expand...

I had to make a revision to my set up. I ended up adding some pear shaped seal on the rear door which does contact the foam on the b-pillar.

The OP of this thread made it sound super easy. Its not, it requires a lot of trial and error use what I did as a guide.

erictski · Feb 7, 2016

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