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Source for constant 12V in bed, taillights, or near rear bumper?

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by Stocklocker, Nov 5, 2017.

  1. Nov 5, 2017 at 9:03 PM
    #1
    Stocklocker

    Stocklocker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I’ve tried every search parameter I can, but came up empty handed. Is there any constant 12V in the back half of a 3rd gen Tacoma or must I run power back from the battery or cab to power auxiliary lighting etc?

    Thanks for any help.
     
  2. Nov 6, 2017 at 7:03 AM
    #2
    Flytmech

    Flytmech Well-Known Member

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    Nope. The best and safest way is to go ahead and install an auxiliary fuse block. 6 circuit is plenty for most ppl. Once installed you will have easy access to power. Toyota doesn't like constant ON power sources.
     
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  3. Nov 6, 2017 at 7:04 AM
    #3
    Stocklocker

    Stocklocker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That’s what I figured. Thanks for the reply.
     
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  4. Nov 6, 2017 at 7:29 AM
    #4
    AllisFan

    AllisFan Well-Known Member

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    I used these in my Ranger, one for constant hot for lights and such and one for keyed power (for my added ignition, efan, fuel pump, choke etc)

    Really easy to put it on a switched relay so your constant power for your lights is only constant when you want it to be.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bss-15600-06-20/overview/

    And that is a terrible price, mine were much cheaper at a parts store.
     
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  5. Nov 6, 2017 at 7:39 AM
    #5
    Flytmech

    Flytmech Well-Known Member

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  6. Nov 6, 2017 at 7:47 AM
    #6
    golfindia

    golfindia Well-Known Member

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    Yes.
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    2017 4x4 access cab AT
    Blue Sea fuse panel, 6g wire directly to truck battery. I also have 2 Trojan T-105s in the bed with an A/B switch. A 200w solar panel on the roof rack runs fridge 24/7 and keeps battery charged.

    20170813_123127.jpg
    20170813_123109.jpg
     
  7. Nov 6, 2017 at 7:49 AM
    #7
    AllisFan

    AllisFan Well-Known Member

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    I do like the LED's on that one.

    If you put the fuse block far from the battery be sure to have an inline fuse close to the battery so you don't have an unfused wire running the length of the truck. On my truck there is only 6" of wire between the battery and fuse block.
     
  8. Nov 6, 2017 at 8:01 AM
    #8
    Flytmech

    Flytmech Well-Known Member

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    Sweet install! Blue Sea makes some good stuff.
     
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  9. Nov 6, 2017 at 8:03 AM
    #9
    ponts

    ponts Well-Known Member

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    Hi there, what do you mean by this "Toyota doesn't like constant ON power sources" I have a few lights and a compressor that are wired inside my cab to the exisiting fuse box to always on power. I noticed an increase of parasitic drain. Could the constant on wiring I did be the issue? The lights on the switches only power on when button is pressed. Thanks in advance!
     
  10. Nov 6, 2017 at 8:11 AM
    #10
    Italia234

    Italia234 Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Nov 6, 2017
    Acivichb, Flytmech and LMarshall73 like this.
  11. Nov 6, 2017 at 9:05 AM
    #11
    Flytmech

    Flytmech Well-Known Member

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    Toyota wants the truck ro be occupied and running if any accessories are connected. Do you mean they are wired to an existing fuse that is already dedicated to another circuit? Or are they wired to their on separate circuit? That fuse box and any fuse box has a Total Circuit Max amperage that can be pulled and the Box itself is fused for that amperage. Adding additional circuits runs the risk of exceeding Max allowable current for that box. That being said, it shouldn't effect power drain unless you have something that's on or grounded that you don't know about. To me it's just easier and safer to install a box that I can control # of circuits and I know the exact current draw of each circuit.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2017
  12. Nov 6, 2017 at 9:13 AM
    #12
    ponts

    ponts Well-Known Member

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    Yes the switches are wired to the cab fuse box by the drivers side and connected to existing circuits with an add a fuse. I also have my dash cam wired to that same box to turn on with ignition and the dash cam battery wired to it as well to charge while the ignition is on. Along with a winch directly to the battery. I don't drive more then 7 to 10 miles in a day and never on the weekend so I think my 27F AGM northstar isn't fully charging. I will be picking up a NOC GEN M1 and plug it in once a week to see if that helps.

    Oh and I will be changing my setup to a switch-pro in a few weeks so maybe this will help as well.
     
  13. Nov 6, 2017 at 9:18 AM
    #13
    Flytmech

    Flytmech Well-Known Member

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    Everything nice a neat, that looks so good!
     
  14. Nov 6, 2017 at 9:19 AM
    #14
    ponts

    ponts Well-Known Member

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  15. Nov 6, 2017 at 9:27 AM
    #15
    Flytmech

    Flytmech Well-Known Member

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    You never know man, any little thing added has the potential to cause a little power drain if something isn't just right. That's another advantage of building aux fuse block. You can disconnect the whole block to see if it stops the drain. You can also disconnect individual circuits and see if it stops the drain, takes a little longer than running a meter across all your circuits but it works.
     
  16. Jun 22, 2018 at 6:16 PM
    #16
    mrjoshyman

    mrjoshyman Well-Known Member

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    Ok, my plan is to have a blue sea fuse box up front along with switch pros. for the truck bed I will need power for:
    - fridge/freezer
    -12 v water pump (in the future, I will plan to utilize a 12v immersion hot water pump -- currently looking at a 600W unit ~ 50 amps)
    - bed lighting
    - spare 12v plug/USB

    In the future, I may want to add a pure sine inverter (though I'm guessing due to distance and amp draw would need totally separate larger gauge wire).

    My question is based on my desired power to the rear would I be better off wiring everything off of the fuse box up in the engine bay OR would I be better off running a sub-fuse box somewhere in the bed of the truck?
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2018

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