Southern Truck Moved North. Por15 before Undercoating?

I did a search and there's a lot I've been sorting through, seems to be a bit of a lack of consensus though.

My truck spent its life in North Carolina and is perfect underneath. I just brought it up to Buffalo, NY where we have decent winters and a TON of road salt. I've been getting my winter vehicles undercoated in Rust Kote, a petrolium based spray, with good results.

Curious if I should paint (would have to brush on) something underneath before applying it? Frame, underside of cab, some suspension components, basically anything that isn't rubber, exhaust, or driveshaft.

Is Por15 my best option?

Thanks

 

Poor 15 prep for lasting protection is possible on some surfaces. If prep isn't perfect it won't last and pops off.
Rust-Oleum farm paint makes better sense. Spraying corrosion prevention INSIDE frame is very important. Look for the hard to find nooks and crannies after dropping the spare.

 

heavy duty from MA
also comes in black

 

That rustoleum paint looks like a good idea. @GQ7227 I'm looking for something to put on prior to the rustproofing, trying to double up

I usually go to the DIY wash in winter. Think I should refrain from pressure washing the undercarriage to keep the undercoating on?

 

I would give it a good cleaning. Clean up any rust spots, particularly at welds and known areas with rust reformer. And start doing Fluid Film/Wool Wax on a regular basis.
There are better and more expensive coatings, but I don't believe any frame coating is "permanent" in New England winters. Doing an annual FF/WW application will give you reason to look over the frame and if you find a problem spot you can clean off the FF/WW, fix the area, and reapply.
This is the rout I'm taking on my 2010 since I got the frame swap. I'll see hot it works out in a few years.

 

Just bought 6 cans of rust oleum tractor equipment paint, and a hose-nozzle attachment. Going to paint everything then have it all undercoated with Rust Kote.

Do people plug these holes in the frames to prevent salt from getting in?

 

Are you using a rust converter before paint?

 

Yes. Toyota started plugging the holes in the frame's boxed section starting in around 2011.

 

No rust at the moment, truck lived in NC its whole life until last week. (Dirt on frame in photo, wipes off). Figure I’ll just pressure wash before painting.

is there a plug kit/diy solution for first gens?

 

I don't think so. Even the 2nd gen kit gets expensive if you get it from the dealer: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/frame-plug-info.345438/

Interestingly, some of the frame holes on my 3rd gen are simply covered with vinyl tape from the factory. You can do the same and cover them with some waterproof duct tape, as-seen-on-TV Flex Tape, or whatever. Best to do it now, since tape won't stick after you've applied any rustproofing coating. See:

 

Damn, your leaf pack is really frowning.

Your suspension must feel like shit.

 

Just got the truck last week. Need to decide if I want to raise it up a smidge now or replace at stock height I guess. Haven’t started researching suspension options yet

 

Your best option is to find indoor storage for 4-5 months out of the year and buy a winter beater. NOTHING stops the rust with the new slurry they spray on the roads. at best you are fighting a slowly losing battle with fluid film or woolwax or POR.

 

This IS my winter vehicle, summer car is an M3

(I don't want to throw shade on my Tacoma like I only bought it for winter. It's much more than that).

 

My 2002 has original frame, been rustproofed annually since new and we have huge amounts of road salt in winter plus I live on the ocean, lots of salt air. No frame plugs.

IMHO, plugging holes on a frame may accelerate rust as it keeps the humidity inside the frame. It never dries out and you will have water inside. Best to spray the inside with fluid film or whatever liquid you are spraying your truck with.

In Canada we have 2 good commercial rust spraying companies, Krown and Rust Check, both work well. My truck was sprayed with Krown. The stuff they use is runny and creeps into the welds and seams, like a fluid film.

 

I used rustoleum bedliner by the gallon, brushed on to my old 4runner, which like you, had a "perfect" frame. Help up great.
This round i used POR-15 and will see how it goes.

 

My truck lived in Rochester for 16 years and toyota gave it a new frame a few years back. I suggest that in addition to the frame, you treat the rear axle housing, especially around the differential, since those often rust through and leak. Also, the rear fender arches often rust beneath the flares, and the gas tank skid plate is completely gone from my truck. It crumbled to dust when the gas tank strap broke (also from rust). Speaking of skid plates, the front plates often have a protective coating of old oil from spillage during oil changes, but they frequently rust through as well, and clean OEM ones are becoming more scarce with time, especially in the north east.

One winter won't kill anything, so I suggest chipping away when you have time.

 

FYI - Your driveshaft is installed wrong. The double cardan joint is to be mounted at the Trans

 

Either sell the truck as a rust free southern truck or park it during winter and buy a disposable winter beater. It will dissolve away no matter what you do. Seeing grown men cry is rough.

 

My Truck is my Winter Beater along with all my other vehicles