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Spark Plug Removal

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by Blackhawk131, Oct 18, 2018.

  1. Oct 18, 2018 at 2:52 PM
    #1
    Blackhawk131

    Blackhawk131 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I hate making this post as I have always changed my spark plugs. But the strange thing is everyone of them are extremely tough to get out. Meaning a lot of resistance when loosing. Usually you break them free and then they are pretty smooth coming out. but these are like they have Loctite or cross leaded which I know shouldn't be the case because I put them in last time. I did use antiseize last time.

    Have some of you found this to be the case?

    I have an 06 4.0
     
  2. Oct 18, 2018 at 7:10 PM
    #2
    glk21c

    glk21c Well-Known Member

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    yep, every time in mine. Guess I've changed them about 8 times now? (just past 394,000 miles)
     
    BassAckwards likes this.
  3. Oct 19, 2018 at 6:33 AM
    #3
    Blackhawk131

    Blackhawk131 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Are you saying they are VERY hard to get out? Cause I have removed 3 with some force and the other three I have going to have to go to 1/2 drive to get enough leverage to get them out. This is crazy, just doesn't make sense.

    None of the ones that have come out look bad. Just the fact that they are so tight makes you feel like something isn't right. Any reasons why? thanks for your information
     
  4. Oct 19, 2018 at 2:11 PM
    #4
    Taylorbarton1

    Taylorbarton1 Well-Known Member

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    could it have something with the expansion and contraction rates of the steel plug threads vs the aluminum block?
     
  5. Oct 19, 2018 at 2:16 PM
    #5
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    maybe shooting some PB Blaster into the spark plug channel let it soak in over nite might help loosen them, sometimes if u loosen them a wee bit then spray in some pb blaster then retighten then try to slowly remove
     
  6. Oct 19, 2018 at 5:22 PM
    #6
    Blackhawk131

    Blackhawk131 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the suggestions. No it has nothing to do with heat in this case. Strangely though I had to use a cheater bar to loosen about a 1/4 to 1/2 of the threads and then it came out with easily. That is SO odd. But either way the new ones went right back in just with my fingers. I have no clue unless the previous anti-seize I used became more like loc-tite. Anyway they were a bear but all is good now.
     
  7. Oct 23, 2018 at 1:21 PM
    #7
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    Show pics of the old plugs if u can.
     
  8. Oct 23, 2018 at 1:26 PM
    #8
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    supposedly u don't need to use anti seize on the DENSO or NGK plugs http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/NGK_TB-0630111antisieze.pdf
     
  9. Oct 23, 2018 at 1:27 PM
    #9
    Blackhawk131

    Blackhawk131 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    There was nothing wrong with them. threads were fine. Looked like some of the old anti-seize but that is about all. The new ones went in with no trouble. But DANG, getting them out was a bear!
     
  10. Oct 23, 2018 at 1:36 PM
    #10
    Blackhawk131

    Blackhawk131 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I don't by that at all. The heads/block are aluminum. Always use anti-seize. Even my buddy in the machining business says the same thing. That said that article does bring up a good point as they may have coating that does the same thing. I will say that I was doing some reading while this issue was happening and I heard where the plugs only need to be tightened down to 10 foot pounds. I didn't azz tighten them last time, but I dang sure didn't tighten them all that tight this time.

    I find it very hard that anti-seize caused this stuff to break. At some point you meet physical bottom, over tightening comes from being too aggressive. But thanks for posting a good read.
     
  11. Oct 23, 2018 at 1:56 PM
    #11
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    I anti seized my plugs for years in my 3.4l gen1 with DENSOS and had no idea about this till I found that article, I torqued them to 15ft/pds. as per manual, in my new truck I wont be anti seizing them tho.
     
  12. Oct 23, 2018 at 2:09 PM
    #12
    Blackhawk131

    Blackhawk131 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Anti-seize DOESN'T cause what they show in the pictures. That seriously is a dumb butt tighten too tight. Hell they should've question why it was so tight much sooner. I hear you, but I would seriously listen to people that work with metal and I feel most would tell you that anti-seize is a must with aluminum. But again in no way did it cause what they show in those pictures.

    So why are you not using anti-seize? Just because of this article?
     
  13. Oct 23, 2018 at 2:28 PM
    #13
    knayrb

    knayrb Well-Known Member

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    I've done my plugs 4x now and have always put on a LIGHT coating of anti-seize - until the most recent 120K change. While the plugs were never stuck, they didn't just screw out easily once I got it started. I felt I was getting buildup of anti-seize and there was already enough left over the from last time that I just screwed the new ones in. I always use a torque wrench to specs and get the threads started by hand. The anti-seize isn't going to harm anything. I would rather have them a little "grabby" coming in/out then have them stuck hard.
     
  14. Oct 24, 2018 at 6:39 AM
    #14
    Blackhawk131

    Blackhawk131 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Agree. And remember you can always run a tap to clean the threads too. I am a firm believer that nobody has had them as tight I mine were. The here only tight the first 1/4 or so and then they came out fine.
     

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