Spark Plugs 4.0

Please tell me what I need to know about changing out my spark plugs in my 08 4.0....

What should I buy ? I looked at the locations over the weekend, and I didn't see a whole lot of obstacles in the way as far as getting to them. Anyone know the torque specs of the spark plug itself, as well as the bolt that holds each coil pack onto the plug ?

Thanks and my apologies if this has been covered a time or two.

 

Check this thread out: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-spark-plug-change-1-gr-fe.30479/

It goes step by step and you will want to buy (6) Denso Spark Plugs #K20HR-U11 (Toyota part #

$6 90919-01235 Genuine Toyota Spark Plug

90919-01235)

It's a pretty simple task

 

The guys in my shop all use the plugs out the 4 banger's. Its a 90K plug. I thought they was crazy but I have been running the same plug for 15k with no problems.

 

Last question guys......

Is it best to change these out with the engine cold or warm ?

 

Doesnt matter. I prefer not burning myself so... lol.

I went irridium on my plugs and I like em.
The left side is easy to do. The right side is a pain unless you have tiny hands. But over all its not hard. Took me 45 minutes and that included taking pictures and marking my okd plugs. Some thread said it takes like 4 hours or something HAHA. That must include a case of beer in there somewhere.

 

It's an easy job. Take your time and do NOT over tighten the plugs. The last one on the driver side is kinda of a bitch unless you remove a few wires in front of it. You will want an angle socket adapter.

 

Put some duct tape on your socket so you won't be fishing it out of your spark plug tube. Best advice someone on here gave me a long time ago.

 

It certainly does matter. Change plugs when the engine is cold. Hot aluminum is weaker and more likely to strip the threads while torquing than with a cold engine.

 

I ruined a lawn mower head by not following this advise.

 

Truth. Always change spark plugs when the engine is cold.

 

I just did my spark plug replacement and wish I was given this advice before hand, but live and learn.

 

If you have a magnet you can stick down in the hole, there's another way to do it that might work even better. Pull the rubber holder out of the spark plug socket (mine never really wanted to stay in). Then you can loosen all the plugs on one side, go back and pull them out with the magnet and slide your new ones in. You'll be able to tighten the new plugs without leaving the socket or the rubber piece behind when you go to the next one. I do all my tune ups at work this way. I also use a universal joint and a 2ft extension so I don't have to reach over the fender as much while doing it.

 

Apply Anti-Seize to the threads of the new plugs. That's not optional. You can get small packets of it at the counter at any autoparts store.

 

Changed mine just a bit ago. Reading Chris4x4's write up would have helped me a little... but I did it in about an hour. Did not remove air filter housing, I just loosened the hose clamp on the air box and turned it sideways... I was able to reach all passenger side easy like that.

Driver's side I should have followed his advice and removed some of them hoses. I just removed the metal bracket and worked around the hoses.

 

I bought the Denso plugs last time on ebay for $20.

 

I went to O'Reilly's and got 6 for $30, with a little packet of antiseize.

 

So I’ll ask this thread too. Some folks on another thread told me not to use iridium but to use copper. I was told the ones that came from factory are platinum denso and NGK. I just replaced with iridium NGK’s.

 

Cold! Hot you might strip the threads.

 

Copper. On the 2nd gens the Iridiums are a waste of money and do not preform as well as the copper plugs.

 

Copper plugs on the 4.0. Iridiums on the 2.7