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square tubing rock sliders

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Totland design, Oct 11, 2012.

  1. Oct 11, 2012 at 7:09 AM
    #1
    Totland design

    Totland design [OP] Member

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    Here is a set of square tube rock sliders that i made for my buddy mike(trowbocop). We decided on square tubes to get a more bulky look.

    mikeslider5.jpg
    mikeslider11.jpg

    And here is a few pics of the build.

    mikeslider1.jpg
    mikeslider6.jpg
    mikeslider10.jpg

    Let me know what you guys think.
     
    Cadmus likes this.
  2. Oct 11, 2012 at 7:34 AM
    #2
    tc98tacoma

    tc98tacoma Well-Known Member

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    3inch toytec coils 5100's, aal(soon to be replaced), 33/12.5 km2s, + a money hole...
    Those look nice..have a little angle to them rather than looking like a rectangle and plain
     
  3. Oct 11, 2012 at 9:08 AM
    #3
    Tenax

    Tenax Well-Known Member

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    i like em. i would round the corner where it is sharp at the angle on either end. safer..and would look more custom i think. then i'd buy a set from you!
     
  4. Oct 11, 2012 at 10:50 AM
    #4
    DitchDoc

    DitchDoc Well-Known Member

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    I am looking at building something similar. Question for ya, what are you cutting your square tubing with. I'm looking for a nice cut but don't have the moola to buy something like a plasma cutter. TIA
     
  5. Oct 11, 2012 at 11:01 AM
    #5
    BAMFTACO

    BAMFTACO Pabst Blue Ribbon on ice

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    Lift- king 2.5 with light racing uppers,tc coil bucket gusset, timbern bumps ,defined extended shackles with shackle brace. Armor- tire gate, custom tube bumper, kr fab rear bumper,trail gear wiy 78 in sliders Performance-intake manifold spacer, vibrant resonator as muffler, hps silicone hoses Random stuff- kenwood head unit,b&m t shifter, hood bug deflector, rear dust lights with custom bed bar and hi lift mount.
    Nice and I like square tubing. What's the thickness of the tubing and diameter
     
  6. Oct 11, 2012 at 11:06 AM
    #6
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    Donahoe CO's, Deaver leaf paks, Lockright Locker, All Pro body armor ( sliders, front and rear bumpers ), All Pro under belly skids, Warn M8K w/Masterpull synthetic line, Dual Optima battery system, 4 ea LightForce Striker 170 offroad lights, 8 ea wired rock lights, and plenty more I'm sure
    kool...
    but how much of a gap is left at the bottom of the door
    and slider surface... when that's opened ?

    the pictures make it look kinda close, but I can't tell from the pics.
     
  7. Oct 11, 2012 at 3:34 PM
    #7
    Totland design

    Totland design [OP] Member

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    The tubing is 1.5" x 1.5" with 0.120 thickness. The angle is not as sharp as it looks on the pic so there is plenty clearance between the bottom of the door and the slider.
     
  8. Oct 11, 2012 at 3:37 PM
    #8
    Totland design

    Totland design [OP] Member

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    For these I actually used my trusty angle grinder. You just gotta make sure you cut it straight!
     
  9. Oct 11, 2012 at 8:29 PM
    #9
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    maybe you could give me some real numbers and not a politician's answer.

    I've looked at the pics numerous times...
    and maybe those don't show well...
    but the sliders position looks like the door(s) would narrowly miss.

    And tho' your sliders probably would deflect less then others might...
    I'd suspect they still would.

    I've guided trucks thru boulders that wedged both sliders up.
    like a teeter-toter if you will...
    The operator couldn't get his doors open...
    and I had to harass 'im a bit for that...
    before helping of course :D
     
  10. Oct 11, 2012 at 9:14 PM
    #10
    DitchDoc

    DitchDoc Well-Known Member

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    That's what I was considering doing. Thx
     
  11. Oct 12, 2012 at 8:11 AM
    #11
    Trowbocop

    Trowbocop Adventurer

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    Wanted to let you know, I already had these attached to my frame, and Kevin finished them off for me. He did a way better job than what had been previously been done.

    Here are the before pics:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Tacodell- I'll open the door and take some pics and measurements today, and let you know.
     
  12. Oct 14, 2012 at 12:21 AM
    #12
    DitchDoc

    DitchDoc Well-Known Member

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    How far past the rocker should your sliders be?
     
  13. Oct 14, 2012 at 1:32 PM
    #13
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    1/2" will be fine...
    'bout where mine sit as well.

    My buddy is too fat to crawl out of a window...
    so he just sat on 'is ass, in the seat, looking confused at me. Lol

    thanks... no real reason for me to care...
    I'm just annoyingly curious.
     
  14. Nov 19, 2015 at 10:09 PM
    #14
    Cadmus

    Cadmus Un-Known Member

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    BUMP!!!! @Totland design

    Nice sliders Totland. Very nice. I was planning on making some like this as a winter project. I have a bandsaw so square is easier for me to work with compared to notching/fitting pipe with a holesaw.

    Can you post more photos?
    Especially of the marriage to the frame. Looks good. I like the look of square. 'not sure what causes more windage but i like the ease of cutting and joining and also square tube as a greater moment of inertia of plane area compared to round tube of similar weight to length.
    Have you used a hi-lift on them? any denting or deformation? That was one of my concerns.
    Is there anything you would have done different?

    Well done
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2015
  15. Nov 20, 2015 at 7:48 AM
    #15
    Trowbocop

    Trowbocop Adventurer

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    Hey, not on here often, will try to follow through with photos soon! I've used hi lift on them a few times, worked great- never dented or bent or anything. Never had any issues clearing the door- never even crossed my mind. Used them a few times on the under side, sliding- but nothing pivoting on the outside. Still kicking ass. I wouldn't change anything on them, they're tucked in tight to the body and don't get in the way otherwise. I'm 5'7" and just hop in, I don't really need to climb in using them, but could if needed.
     
  16. Nov 20, 2015 at 7:49 AM
    #16
    SlipperyTaco

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    Looks good me likey
     
  17. Nov 20, 2015 at 3:29 PM
    #17
    Trowbocop

    Trowbocop Adventurer

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  18. Nov 20, 2015 at 5:23 PM
    #18
    Cadmus

    Cadmus Un-Known Member

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    Thanks. Nice job. I missed the fact that it was not Kevin's truck, (D'oh!) so i sent questions to him requesting photos of how you married them to the frame. Just looked at your build. very nice.
    and it had this in the photos:[​IMG]

    Is that angle iron or did you make an L out of plates? What dimensions?
    Do i see 5 plates on each side?
    Just 6 of those 1/2" beads on each plate? I want to minimize the welding as to minimize the HAZ on my chassis.
    Did you gusset the proximal arms? If so above or below?
    Where on the plate did you put the proximal arms?
    Did you weld 100% of the joints from the proximal arms to the plate? if not how much of each ? Must be hard getting in there.

    Only if you have time. Thanks for posting more photos.
     
  19. Nov 20, 2015 at 5:28 PM
    #19
    MatthewMay1

    MatthewMay1 I'm an amateur professional.

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    Lots 'o stuff. Look at my build! -->
    Probably one of the best square tube designs I've seen. Nice work
     
  20. Nov 20, 2015 at 5:30 PM
    #20
    Cadmus

    Cadmus Un-Known Member

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    I never thought i would see "nice cut" and "plasma cutter" in the same sentence.
    ...but perhaps other people have a steady hand relative to mine.
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2015
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