Squeaky Penguin's (Trip Reports) Build Thread

I was thinking that you’re probably running into the same thing, Mike.

I think I’m going to form up some kydex sheet like Monte mentioned and double sided tape it to the top of the winch. Seems like it should work. If you design something for 3D printing, let me know!

 

For what it's worth I rarely remove my cover completely. I just pull it off enough to reach the lever. Wouldnt be difficult to cut a hole for it either.

 

Never thought of that. Just cut a hole for the lever and the control plug. Might have to do that.

 

The only thing I would worry with any sort of cover is not having a quick view of how many wraps I have left on the drum. Ideally I would want to paint/mark the line some how when I am at the danger zone, wrap wise so it would be a non issue.

 

Thats an easy fix.

Put a piece of ducktape or Gafftape where you want to stop. Just wrap the cable with it.
Its actually a recommended thing to do to winch line.

No different that being in a plate bumper and the only way to look is through the fairlead. Could always do that too.

 

This is exactly what I was thinking of doing. Simple and easy.

 

Who knows about motor mount perches? @TMFF

Have some TG engine mounts coming, along with a 4x trans mount, and think I should address the perches while I'm at it before I break them doing what I'm doing.

Are DMZ perches the best option? Any way to weld those up aside from pulling the engine? I was thinking about putting in a nicer clutch anyways....

 

Can't do the DMZs without pulling the motor.

That said, since you're just doing the TG ones Id just guesset the stock ones as you can do that with the motor still in. Not fun but should be doable.

Otherwise, sell the TG ones when you get them. Buy Bozen's mounts, then do DMZs perches. That's my plan. Have the mounts. WAY better than the TG ones.

 

What's wrong with the TG mounts? And what exactly are you gusseting on the stock perches?

Looks like the only benefit of the Bonzen ones is they replace the bracket that goes to the engine, but I've not heard of that presenting a problem. For the price I'm not sure it's worth it, so what makes the "WAY better"?

 

Depending on the mounts they can fail. Yours are likely just the stamped metal ones. I wouldn't put it past you to break them after beefing up the other parts. So yeah, replaces the entire mount, win for me. I got the tranny mount to match but I don't think that is really that much better than the 4xi one.

Check out JDs build. From what I've seen you box the perch and if you can(really have to pull the motor at this point though) plate the sides and top. JD i believe just boxed his though. Doesn't help the actually mounting surface sadly.

 

Can you "kinda" pull the motor?
Like drop the trans, unbolt the motor mounts, and lift the motor like 2 inches?

 

Not sure. I think the front diff would also have to be pulled for that to work.

 

Might as well pull the oil pan and weld an oil return bung in for a turbo while the diff is out...

 

Ooo we turboing Brett's rig while we are at it?


I approve of this stupid idea as much as the long travel one!!

 

Everything needs a turbo, it's a fact of life

 

I like your thinking.

And I like turbos.


But this thing will stay NA. I want it to be as reliable as possible to get me to where I want to go.

 

Truer words haven't never been spoken

 

I do worry about effecting reliability when I put mine on.

 

you should be..

 

I built my own mounts to replace the vulcanized OEM stuff many moons ago, similar to the Bonzen mounts. I had some frame perch repair at that time that I did with everything in place, huge PITA! A few years later the frame failed around the driver side engine mount and I pulled the front Diff to plate in with some 4130 3/16 plate that went from the cab to the radiator and 1/2 way up the coil bucket. I might have pics somewhere but that was.... 7-8 years ago?

I would definitely replace and beef cake everything between the engine and frame, The motor doesn't have to come out to do so but will make it easier.

I don't know what your all talking about with reliability and boost, My 150K stock engine LOVES 11-12psi at 5500ft. It's been supercharged with a 2.1, now 2.0, pulley for 80K. Now that I ditched URD for AEM and spent some time to dial on the fuel trims and fuel/ign maps it sucks gas and hauls ass!!!