Squeaky Penguin's (Trip Reports) Build Thread

You also have a featherweight 4 cylinder and not the heavyweight V6.

You people are why I carry a corkscrew in my center console...

 

Such a lightweight.

 

I think the difference is around 50lbs. Add the weight of the turbo and it's less.

 

Upping my overland game. Going to have maxtrax on the roof before you know it.



Now I just need to completely redo the bed storage.

Still no idea what I'm doing with the rear axle or all the other cracks...

 

Who needs axles when you have all your expo points.

 

Best mod ever. You'll see.

What size?

 

At least when my truck breaks I know I'll have a cold beer.

It's a CFX-40.

Thinking the size should suit me right, and I won't need to lug around a full gallon of milk just to take up space.

 

That's all you need! I would recommend running a voltage boosting fuse if you are using an AGM to power the fridge, I have a CFX-35 running with a 27f and I can run in for 2 days and night easy without running the truck without worrying with that set up.

 

Voltage boosting fuse? Never heard of that. :startsgoogling:

Brett a fridge is easily my favorite mod for trips.

 

HKB makes a fuse with a small resistor that changes the charging voltage by +.5 volts.
AGM batteries like to be charged at 13.9 -14.5 and lead acid like 13.2-13.7, so the alternator is designed to put out that amount. By adding a small resistor is increases the voltage making sure the AGM gets a full charge and not just 90% charge.

 

You can also do it with a diode. Or running the voltage sense wire to another point that is naturally lower voltage or has voltage drop for the extended wire

 

Correct. I believe the one I has does actually use a diode since it needs just a very slight resistance.

 

What’s your Instagram again?

 

Ah that thingy. I didn't realize it was a fuse, I heard of a voltage booster but I though it just hooks up between the alternator and the factory wiring. I have a high output alternator so I never looked into it, which IMO is a better way to go to be honest.

 

I do have an AGM battery, and have heard a lot of talk on proper voltages etc.

I'm not sold yet. Would be curious to see the actual difference at the battery between 14.3v or whatever I'm at and a few tenths more. I've seen a lot of people tossing figures around, but nothing backing it.

For the time being, going to rock the single battery and factory 300k mile alternator.

 

Funny, the fridge and traction boards are the one thing from the overlanding side I really use and like. Fridge wins over the boards. Pretty much ditched the ideas or using of the other popular items....... RTT, Skottle, camp kitchens. I mean, hotdog flavored water is a serious downer.

 

I measured mine directly at the battery and got a increase of .5 -.7 volts.
AGM batteries don't need more amps, they need more Voltage which is basically electrical pressure to be able to get full charged. Other wise they only get to about 90% which over a few years can start to damage the battery if it's never fully charged but then run down to 50%.

 

Some do, best to see what the battery you have says it needs.

@Squeaky Penguin what brand battery do you have? Does the battery have the desired voltages printed on it?

 

They all have their place, and I am looking forward to the finally having a fridge

I still get a laugh from unused maxtrax on otherwise empty roof racks though.

I get that the voltage is higher, but what does that mean about effectiveness of the battery. It's gonna be 13.2v or whatever as soon as the alternator isn't spinning, is it not?

Is it about 90%, or 98%? That's what I'm curious about.

I'm still a skeptic on this one. Seems like the new TW echo chamber mod. I'll report back how long my battery lasts.

It's a Duracell, which is a rebranded Deka. I'll take a look at it next time I feel like brushing the snow off my truck.

 

Most battery companies will specify a recommended charging voltage when your talking AGM. Some fall in the range of the OEM voltage regulator, some above. The real question/test would be resting voltage to determine state of charge. If you're still getting the correct state of charge after a longer drive cycle the charging voltage wouldn't make a difference. Your goal is to hit in the upper 80s to lower 90s% state of charge to make the most of your increased battery capacity. I haven't make the AGM switch yet so I can't offer anything as far as real world experience.