Squeaky Penguin's (Trip Reports) Build Thread

I’d say around $1k.

Can always go lunchbox to save some coin too

 

Lunch box in the rear for the type of wheeling he does? No way man haha

 

Why not? I don’t mean to be a dick but the only downside there is for wheeling is that it can hurt your turning radius in slop when it won’t unlock and pushes the front end. If it’s for road manners in CO snow on roads like US-50, I can understand why one would want to stay selectable. And even then, I’d pick a Harrop over an ARB that always seems to leak at some point and leave you unlocked.

 

Yeah, I don't think I want to deal with a luncbox. There's a bunch of times, including driving on snowy roads, where I would want it unlocked.

 

This ^ and agree on e locker though, I don’t mind air for the front but e-locker rear is much better.

 

I would think you should be ok with a junkyard axle. Cut the factory perches off. Replace those perches with something that has more surface contact or design your own. Possible add external tube in that area to increase the housing thickness. Get out low buck for now and in the future plan on a serious upgrade that doesn't require a half ass.

 

I have wondered if this is something to consider. Are there any aftermarket options, half sleeves or spring perches that anyone is offering.

If history says anything, it is if it can happen to Brett's rig, it sure as shit can happen to mine.

 

There's all sorts of options for off-the-shelf perches. Would need to do some digging to see which ones might be better than stock.

I'm intrigued by the Ruffstuff ubolt eliminator perches though.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2170.html

 

Could you combine a new perch with an oversized "sleeve" that welded over the cracked area, in effect patching it?

 

Could be, if you drilled and plug welded the end of the crack. My worry would be the housing is already oval/miss shaped there. Would save down time as he could bench build the new one then install it once completed. Would only be worth it if he could find one for cheap though. I wouldn't go spending over $200 on one.

 

That's a ton of work to still have a mostly 3/16 housing. The Failgear drop on Tacoma housing is a WAY better option to reuse what @Squeaky Penguin already invested in upgraded parts.

https://trail-gear.com/axles/rock-assault-axle-housings/rock-assault-tacoma-rear-axle-housing.html

2 hours to weld on spring perches, shock mounts, and drink beers!

Steel-it paint and done!

 

I don't care about downtime right now as the truck isn't being driven for the next couple months, but I would feel more comfortable staring with a fresh axle. The idea of it cracking more than it already has causes a little concern.

I'm not sold on sleeving it though. Would have to find just the right size tube, cut it in half, and even then, you couldn't have that wide of a section due to how the axle is designed.

Yeah, I think this would be a better option, and honestly about the same price when said and done, vs modifying a stock housing. I think I saw them on summit for $500 w/free shipping if you catch a sale or something.

Still need to decide if I want to stick with the 8" diff, but if I do, I'll probably go this route.

 

I still consider that a waste because it is based around an 8" diff. Great in a light weight build though. Could make the whole assembly more likely to sell if he decides to go big diff.

 

@malburg114 can give you a review on those, I know he's running them. I originally liked the idea till I read his thoughts.

 

100% agree!

I contemplated building a custom housing with a 9.5 center when I blew up my 8" last summer. Budget and time got in the way of that!

 

Another downside is in slick off camber situations where both wheels spinning causes that axle to slide in the direction of the fall line. Could be deadly on some shelf roads. The front is a better place for a auto locker in my opinion.

 

You guys aren't making my decision any easier.

Maybe I should price out a custom axle, and just do it right the first time.

 

There a good idea. The threads just get gummed up a lot. I have to run a tap through them every time I take a bolt out. They are extremely hard to start 3 out of 4 bolts because the bolts have to be straight to start and in-line unlike u bolts which you can move all directions to get through the plate. . Overall goodidea just difficult to use and more of pain than it’s worth. I regret them whenever I’m assembling the axle the rest of the time I have no complaints.

I did have one issue with one where the weld from ruffstuff ran into the threads (they thread and tap the side plates then weld them on) causing a bolt to destroy the threads and a bolt. Ruffstuff refunded me the money even though I already tacked the mount on and cut them to fit. I just re threaded it and made it work.

 

Ripping apart the old engine for the hell of it.

Don't know what I'm looking at when it comes to these bearings.



There's also some slight scoring on the cylinders and pistons.



I haven't got everything apart yet, kinda hoping to find exactly where all that metal came from.

 

Nothing looks bad really