Squeaky Penguin's (Trip Reports) Build Thread

I think I understand what you're trying to say.

Time
Money
Knowledge on how to do it properly
Plans for this year that involves a working truck
A replacement 'overland' vehicle
Still being undecided if that's really what I want to do

Just not ready to go down that road quite yet.

 

I'm finishing out my overland build on the 4runner this year then starting my 94 pickup build. Still not full on crawler but easily doing hard trails type build. Must still stay a driver though. Light weight and 37s type build.

 

lol sorry was on the phone.

With the UCAs and the LCAs both adding caster, you likely won't need to be adding any with the cam tabs. Other than correcting for Camber and such. But you definitely won't need to be adding caster anymore. Should have 4º with the UCAs and LCAs combined. Plus the wheel will be centered.

Mine right now are pushed a bit forward without UCAs.

 

Yeah, that sounds like a perfect combo.

Also - I still do have that ignitor sitting here. Let me know if you're in a hurry and I can ship it, otherwise I'll bring it whenever I get a LC 9.5 that needs 4.88s and an ARB. I also have any other 3.4 part sitting on a shelf, so let me know if you need anything else.

 

There is a guy parting some 80 series in Steamboat on the craigslist. Some in Castle Rock but I've heard he is expensive.

I'm in no hurry. I'll be ordering parts from ORS the next couple weeks. Still have to build the harness and reseal the donor engine. It will be most of the summer before it is running if the diff work stays steady.

 

Already called both.

The guy here doesn't have any axles, and the guy in castle rock wanted $1k and I had to pull it myself. I think I might have laughed at him.

 

Ive bought a few things from him....he was the owner of Urbis Offroad. Like you said, pricey

 

Honestly once you've seen the light of a solid axle truck, you will never want to go back to an IFS truck. Once you're at the point of breaking spindles, coil buckets, steering racks, etc...it's time to look at a SA even if you aren't a hardcore crawler. The modes for failure are so much fewer...outside of breaking a 12 year old axle shaft a few years ago, I've spent less than $150 on front axle service in 6 years. Replaced felts/seals and some spring bushings and that's literally it.

Big cost in terms of price and time but big rewards if you plan on keeping your truck for the long run.

I totally get the go-fast and light wheeling place for IFS too so I don't want to seem like a total debbie downer on it but it seems like you're a good candidate for a SA.

 

If you still plan on jumping it and going fast, spend the money on a Dana 60 for the front. The Toyota sheet metal housings will bend like crazy, and the knuckle design is the not the best for handling go fast stuff. Yea you can truss it and all that fun stuff, but by that time you are right around stock d60 housing strength.

 

609 front end built to whatever specs you want. And able to keep the 6 lug stuff

 

What? Can you give me more details, I have no idea what you're talking about.

 

9inch diff/center section

Dana60 outer C's and spindles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOGssUVsnCA

 

Ah, got it. Still SAS stuff.

 

You can do a 609 rear as well. What I built. Uses 6x5.5 wheels but has a 9 inch center and 35 spline axle shafts with Dana 60 outers

 

Let me ask you solid axle guys this-

Would you invest in something other than the 80 series rear if you were planning on a SAS a few years down the line?

 

In before @TMFF tells me 14 bolt.

 

Go for broke my friend!


http://www.spidertrax.com/4in-Pro-Series-Housing

https://camburg.com/shop/drivetrain/camburg-4-00-tig-race-series-9-rear-axle-housing/

https://tubeworks.com/design-center/


Remember those are JUST the housings! You still need to buy hubs, third, locker, ect.



14 Bolt converted to a 15 bolt with a shave kit!

https://www.tmrcustoms.com/collections/14-bolt-shave-kits

 

Depends what you want to do with the truck.

Hardcore crawler on 40’s and a budget: 14 bolt. It’s massive though, so 40’s are almost required to not hang up on stuff. It's not much fun to shave one and they are hard to keep from leaking after a shave. Has to be converted from drum brakes most of the time too unless you get a late model unit.

Do all rig on 37’s and a budget: FZJ80. A lot more clearance than a 14 bolt and the sealing issues that come with a shaved 14 bolt. You’ll never hurt an 80 axle. Justin Reece races with one in his pickup at hammers untrussed with no problems and lots of heavy 80's wheeling on them with no problems.. The housings are beef but a pain to cut all the brackets off and you have to track one down in a junkyard. Lot lighter than a 14b

Baller budget on whatever sized tire you want: Ruffstuff or Diamond with either a 9” or 9.5”. Beef with lots of ground clearance and no cutting brackets off a junkyard axle. Comes with the corresponding price tag though. I pondered one but just couldn't justify the extra $3k over an FZJ80 axle for extra strength that I'd never need and some elbow grease.

 

It's a $10,000+ front solid axle.

 

I forgot about the "cheaper" option!

http://www.9inchfloater.com/CompleteRrEnd/CmplteRrEnd_35_40.htm


We run this in the race bronco with 40 spline parts and it's probably up to 7K miles with only minor housing cracks around the bump pads.