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Squeaky Penguin's (Trip Reports) Build Thread

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by Squeaky Penguin, Feb 3, 2013.

  1. Jun 29, 2022 at 8:26 PM
    #5061
    jubei

    jubei would rather be doing something else

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    Stuff. Also things.
    ED11941D-110E-4FDD-88BB-8789214EB792.jpg
     
    TMFF likes this.
  2. Jun 29, 2022 at 8:33 PM
    #5062
    Littles

    Littles Stupid is as stupid does.

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    :yes:

    Interested to see how your pre-bent shifters work out.
     
  3. Jun 30, 2022 at 8:05 AM
    #5063
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider #NFG

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    Drop bracket lift and booger welds
    Interested to see where the shifters land in the cab. :popcorn:

    *EDIT* Is it clocked there? It doesn't look it unless that is max?
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2022
    Squeaky Penguin[OP] likes this.
  4. Jun 30, 2022 at 8:34 AM
    #5064
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    definitely clocked. you can see how the linkeage is twisted on the top to the standard t case. And it's sitting flat.
     
  5. Jun 30, 2022 at 8:39 AM
    #5065
    Squeaky Penguin

    Squeaky Penguin [OP] Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained

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    That should be max if I figured out the clocking instructions right. :anonymous: Don't know why, but that confused me for a minute...

    Also wide angle picture doesn't help...
     
  6. Jun 30, 2022 at 8:46 AM
    #5066
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider #NFG

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    Ah I see the twist now, good call.
    Def interested to see what body work it might take to make that setup work. You aren't running a BL either right?
     
  7. Jun 30, 2022 at 9:02 AM
    #5067
    Bandido

    Bandido Engine...er

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    I haven't asked NWF directly yet, but do you just run 2 sticks of the triple stick setup if you keep the push button actuator?
     
  8. Jun 30, 2022 at 9:20 AM
    #5068
    Squeaky Penguin

    Squeaky Penguin [OP] Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained

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    Lots of dust and custom dents, Check Build
    No body lift.

    I'm more worried about fuel lines, fuel filter, and parking brake bellcrank currently. I think those will all be in the way, but may need to get into the floor too.

    I'll find out tonight.

    If it were me, I would use the push button case as the donor and find a jshift to use as the rear case so you can use the triple sticks. Or just keep the factory shifter in the back and use the shifter off the donor in the front.

    You would have to call them to see if they could get you a shifter setup for the push button case if you wanted both shifters in the forward position. The piece that mounts to the rear case would obviously only need one linkage and a ball type interface as opposed to spade.
     
    Bandido[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Jun 30, 2022 at 9:30 AM
    #5069
    Bandido

    Bandido Engine...er

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    Yeah I'll probably call... Thanks.
    I made a 5speed knob with the 4wd button incorporated into it that makes 4wd shifting during *maneuvers* really easy and fun and kinda wanna keep that feature.
    20210926_085848.jpg
     
    Madjik_Man and JasonLee like this.
  10. Jun 30, 2022 at 10:12 AM
    #5070
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider #NFG

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    Drop bracket lift and booger welds
    This is awesome. Break traction with 2wd and shift into 4 on the fly halfway through the donut?
     
  11. Jun 30, 2022 at 10:25 AM
    #5071
    Reh5108

    Reh5108 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like a good way to break something.
     
  12. Jun 30, 2022 at 10:26 AM
    #5072
    Bandido

    Bandido Engine...er

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    Yep, and the 1-2 shift takes about as long as the 4wd shift, I'm sure I'll break something eventually tho
     
  13. Jun 30, 2022 at 12:39 PM
    #5073
    w.adventures

    w.adventures Adventure is out there

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    What could go wrong... :rofl:
     
    Reh5108[QUOTED] likes this.
  14. Jun 30, 2022 at 7:38 PM
    #5074
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Well this thread has all my favorite people in it :)

    I need advice TW brethren... I have to start chasing down a parasitic draw on my 04 DC. I think it's about time I buy a multimeter. An instrument I have no idea how to really use. But I love learning new stuff so...

    For a DIY putz like me that just needs ease of use, good enough to work on the Tacoma (and useful for house stuff too, I suppose) and doesn't cost $300 like the Flukes...

    ...what should I buy? Any recommendations is appreciated.

    Sorry Brett for a slight thread/build derail. Figured this is better than me texting you, Monte and Old Brett :D
     
  15. Jun 30, 2022 at 7:49 PM
    #5075
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    A Fluke 115 will be totally fine. And is under your budget. Plus will do true rms if you ever get to that point.
     
    jubei and Madjik_Man[QUOTED] like this.
  16. Jun 30, 2022 at 8:09 PM
    #5076
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Edit: Wait, a Fluke 115 is $250. lol, definitely not "under my budget."

    Thank you. I've read so many reviews, "must haves" etc that I've confused myself about something I don't know anything about.

    One thing that people complain about, and I have no idea how it relates to automotive use, is the 10A limit and "don't ever use it for 20A" even though most of the meters say 20A for 30 seconds is okay.

    Considering we have 20A circuits in our trucks, should I be worried? Or is physics escaping me right now?
     
  17. Jun 30, 2022 at 8:56 PM
    #5077
    Reh5108

    Reh5108 Well-Known Member

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    I've got a $20 one from an auto part store that has served me well for my truck. The leads kind of suck because they are stiff and end up flipping the display so it's not readable but it gets the job done.

    I also have an Ideal with a DC amp clamp that has been handy for checking amp draw. It only reads to the 0.1V, I needed 0.01V to set the TPS on a sled this winter which my cheap auto store meter worked fine for.

    Don't have much experience with AC with either.
     
    Madjik_Man likes this.
  18. Jun 30, 2022 at 10:19 PM
    #5078
    JasonLee

    JasonLee Hello? I'm a truck.

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  19. Jul 1, 2022 at 1:39 AM
    #5079
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    No you don't need to worry. That's only if you want to measure current. Which you won't be doing pretty much ever. And if you do then an amp clamp is much safer.

    The fluke is still worth getting I think. Will last forever and is robust. I found mine for $50 used locally. I'm sure you can find one used for $100.
     
  20. Jul 1, 2022 at 7:33 AM
    #5080
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Awesome thanks guys. I found that one Jason recommended on Amazon for $55. That’s good enough for me.

    Sorry for the derail Brett. Back to your regular scheduled programming…
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2022

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