Squeaky Penguin's (Trip Reports) Build Thread

Ask @Tacofire98 how that's working out.

 

So close, yet so far.

 

To be fair, I don’t think that was a tire issue, would have still blown on 31’s

 

Reminds me of the line he tried at the start of Cliffhanger. He actually looks like he has solid grip there on the rear even if he's bottomed on the slider. What was the drivers side like?

IMG_8119 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_8121 by Michael Halat, on Flickr

 

I'll be trying this line again in a couple weeks!

 

I was ready to burn the truck to the ground.

I'm going to dive into it this week but my ideas as of now-
-The inner joint had slipped out of the tulip and the binding twisted the mounts upward
- Maybe a diff drop will help? Seems that it just rolls the front forward and doesn't help the rear mount.
- Get rid of all CVs not OEM

 

So what are we looking at in the pics, anything bent?

 

Driver side is the same pretty much, wedged on sliders on both sides.

 

The L mount looked fine. The ADD tube looked liked it twisted at the weld. I'm going to try and pull it tonight to compare it to my spares. Something is definitely twisted.

 

Dang. Never seen the outer tube twisted like that. Failure always seem to be from the shaft/internals.

 

Is that a manual tube or an actual ADD tube? Regardless I feel like the intermediate shaft snapped and it's trying to rotate on the snapped chunk, hence separating the tube itself. Just a theory.

 

Oof winches ftw then. Tough line for that wheelbase ha

 

Actual ADD. I'm going to try and pull it tonight and I'll report back on what the internals are like

 

So when you pulled the bolt the mount rotated down like that? Crazy it would've twisted that much.

Sucks it ruined your day, bud!

You didn't happen to check if that CV was binding previously? I've heard some do and some don't. Don't think a diff drop would've helped much. I am curious about those CVs with a slip joint, but not sure I want to test.

I just backed down and did the easier line. Been eyeing up that obstacle for a while now, and just bummed I still didn't get it!

 

I'm running the Import Direct slip joint style on the Tacoma. I run the Tundra length ones to match the LT but they have been great besides coming raw and needing to paint them before install.

https://www.yotashop.com/cv-axle-to...GbkEBs1x5GAjLTq8bbmtNwGuQ3mE9sigaAsjrEALw_wcB

https://www.yotashop.com/cv-axle-to...me-angle-cv-axle-shaft-2000-2007-ncv69158xdp/

 

Where were you yesterday to test how tough those are?

 

wow thats a new one. Haven't seen that. Didn't think our trucks had enough torque to do that

This makes me want to figure out the 2nd gen taco front diff swap though. Wish FROR had released that kit..

Interesting. Didn't know those exsited. Seems like maybe another point of failure though?

Also wouldn't seem to help with cup bind at steep angles.

my Tundra CVs where ground out to allow the steeper angles at the cup. Supposed to help I guess.

 

I need to make my own thread of drama one of these days, but until then your thread seems to be a good place for it.
Stub shaft and intermediate shaft still in one piece. The same cannot be said for the housings.


Still have a twist in the front. I suspect a rear mount next.