Squeaky Penguin's (Trip Reports) Build Thread

What did you conclude from this. My axle does the same thing...maybe worse. That maybe why the rear seal keeps going out.

 

Sub. Great meeting you this weekend. I need to take care of my gears and come join you guys down south for a weekend.

Edit: Love your @SCSPerformance Ray's !

1-4 by Marc Mayer, on Flickr

 

The new ones did the same thing to a lesser extent, but have been holding up great.

I wouldn't bother changing axle seals and not do the bearing though. Often times the oil going through the bearing kills it, or a bad bearing is what causes the seal to leak. I.E. the seal isn't the main problem.

Sweet shot of me wrenching on my pile!

Lots of fun was had, glad we could meet up!

IMG_0732 by brettbjorgum, on Flickr

 

Awesome photo!

 

Hey Brett do you have anything protecting your rear diff? I was looking at BAMFs but holy hell that price is expensive, not to mention it'll take up ground clearance and the bottom of the housing is already pretty stout. Just looking for options

 

I think they're a typical TW fanboy item. Take the lowest point on your truck and loose some more ground clearance.

Bottom of the diffs are really stout, the only weakness I've found is the drain plug. I dragged the bottom so much I was starting to hit the plug. I've since welded a little piece of 1/2" solid bar to the bottom, and welded up around the ring. Another bunch of years grinding those down and I'll do it again.

Now the back cover on the other hand is pretty thin, but I haven't had an issue. If you're concerned about backing it into a rock, get one of the weld on back covers from any one of the many vendors that sell them for like $50.

 

Haven't hit it yet but I'm sure I will eventually.

Yeah that's what I was thinking, just only know of All-Pro and I think TG does one. Cool thanks

 

I bought mine because I drug my third across a rock and cracked the seal between the third and housing. Re sealed it and its been fine since but it's been nice knowing that won't happen again.

 

I like the factor of it's armored so I don't have to worry about it. The BAMF design does protect the pinion and actuator as well. But I believe these are 2nd gen problems that we have.

Brett isn't the first gen housing thicker on the bottom then a second gen?

 

Haha "second gen problems" don't admit it in Brett's thread man!

Just pick better lines and you won't need it

 

It's all good. Better for me to say it first before he brings it up.

 

I love cracking rocks with mine. Never have to worry about it ever.

 

I'm with Brett, unnecessary item. In all the years, an armored diff cover is about all you need, mainly for Dana axles as the stamped cover is really thin. The bottom's are pretty darn thick on all the makes out there.

 

I did the same, but my bolts had come loose. I still don't think I will get a diff diaper. I had my stock third ground down to bare metal with no issues lol. I need to go retorque mine again cuz I have some dust stuck to the bottom of the diff at a glance and that concerns me. First time back on the trails with the resealed diff... I swear to god if it's leaking again...

 

Those bolts are only 18 ftlbs... I used fipg on mine as well as the paper gasket.

 

I am getting old so this is one way for me to get used to diapers.

 

I'm gonna make a Huggies logo to put on mine. Thanks for the idea

 

Mr. Brett,
I may have missed it, how did you get the tubing horizontal between the frame rails in the back for the new upper shock mount?

I can see no way other than to cut the tubing short and then fill in the gap with plate.
Or remove the bed and spread the frame?
Obviously a BFH is used at some point...

Also, what size and gauge of tubing did you use?

 

I think there were several botched attempts and a rayray involved

 

That was the mid skid. Ray had the welder a little too hot when welding on the frame mounts.....


The rest of the skid took a bit of tinkering as well.

Pictures are worth a thousand words right?




Step one is get a friend, it would be very difficult to do by yourself. Had a lot of help from James getting this crossmember in.

Tubing came from Ray, so I'm not certain on what size it is but I think its 1.75"x1/8" wall HREW. The tubing was welded to some 3/16" plate donated from my old transmission skid, and then the plate was welded to the frame top and bottom. It was a little tight, so only light tapping to get it where I wanted it, but no BFH work. Had to cut off the factory drivers side shock mount. Removing the bed was not necessary for this project, but welding the top of the plate was a little tricky.