Squeaky Penguin's (Trip Reports) Build Thread

I can't imagine it's that hard to remove the brand new bushings, but we'll see. As far as the OTREs are concerend, on a truck with 223K, let's call it preventative maintenance. In fact, I've done pretty good to replace as little as I have, and there's probably more thing's that are getting worn that could be replaced.

If I was as anal as you about every little sound I'd have big problems

If you didn't catch it, I'm no longer running the BFG ATs. Becuase of my experience last winter, I ended up with a dedicated set of winter tires. No AT tire, even studded duratracs, will match their peformance.

And if they made Duratracs in a 255/85/16, that would have easily been my choice.

 

I kinda think so, but don't know for sure. I didn't get an records from the PO when I bought it with 201K on it, and don't see anything on the Carfax. They seem pretty tight, but its cheap enough to replace. I've got a pair of trail spares in the toolbox currently, I think they're 555 made in Japan, so maybe I just toss those on and get some new ones. Haven't read anything about using OEM TREs like they do LBJs.

Speaking of ball joints, I told myself I was going to replace all 4 this spring with OEM.

I put in a cheapo when I did this last summer:



But I checked them when replacing the coils and they all seem good, and I have spares for all of them in the toolbox anyways.

 

Check out my new rack!




Thinking I should just do it right and go with OEM OTRE. Hopefully then I can be good for another 200K.

Also, is there anyone following this that know the part number for the spedo-gear-thingy for 33"s. Oh, and alignment numbers for 3" lift and 33"s. I've needed an alignment since putting on the coils, can't imagine how bad it will be after the steering rack.

 

More parts to install that I don't have time for. First thing I decided I need after running the 255/85s some more:



EBC Sport rotors and green stuff pads. Kinda needed this anyways though, ever since I bought the truck I get a virbration out of the front brakes going down the passes. I'm guessing I'm on the stock rotors. Also, comtemplated the Tundra swap, but I wanted to keep things stock for a few reason included the possibility for 15" wheels in the future.


And lastly, ordered a speedometer gear as well as OEM outer tie rods. Local Toyota dealership (3 hours away) didn't have them in stock so just ordered them online. And you were right Timmy, Moog's on Rock Auto are $31, OEMs online were $40. That dealership wanted like $60 BTW.

Guessing I won't be able to get the steering rack and all this other crap in until next weekend at least. Too much damn schoolwork.....

 

I've been looking at the EBC stuff too. Curious to hear your opinion.

 

I'll make sure to report back. The power loss with the tires was manageable, the braking loss was slightly more disconcerting. Hopefully these help.

 

Non-driveway pic of the current setup:

 

I love driving up snowbanks:



On the bump stop here. Tires clear nicely, but not saying that'll be the case when the wheels aren't straight.

 

Swapped out my 30 tooth speedo gear for a 28. Speedometer now seems to be just about right with the 255/85s and 4.10s. Now that I know what I'm doing, the entire process takes less than 5 minutes.

Besides that no other updates. Looks like the steering rack/front brakes/rear lift projects will all have to wait until the end of the semester. Then it will be a mad dash getting this thing ready for Moab.

Still need to order rear shocks too. Think I'm just going to stick with 5125s. Anyone know what valving we should use? Then just have to figure out what length to get.

 

Another iteration of my grill. Painted the mesh and the lip black this time. Don't know how I like it







Also, does anyone have any input on those rear shocks?

 

Thanks for the input Timmy, oh and:

Had an interesting adventure today:

Got stuck in a creek:





Didn't bother getting any better pics as I was franticlly trying to get it out.

Found out what I got stuck on:





And carrier bearing got smashed:






Overall, not one of my better outings. Does anyone have any input on whether I can just replace the carrier bearing or if there may be other drive shaft issues. The angles looks kinda wierd, but the carrier bearing now has some extra play...

 

Holy shit !
I'll bet you were frantic. Sorry to hear about your day, that just sucks.
The carrier bearing mounts may have been bent causing the angle, looks like you were hung up pretty good on that too.
As long as the drive line has no dents it should be ok to just replace the carrier, if it's actually damaged, and pry the mounts straight again if they are actually bent. My money says the mount is tweaked back

 

Wow Squeaky,

I'm glad you got your rig out ok. Looks like it's time for you to get one of these:

 

Holy Shit is right!

Just pulled the drive shaft. Everything appears OK, carrier bearing is completely toast. Mount is clearly bent. Will be ordering a new carrier bearing ASAP, and attempting to get that mount as straight as possible. Maybe I'll get a quick video of that carrier bearing, it's rather comical.

And hey, it wasn't the most fun thing, but it was a good experience, and will make for a good story

You've got one you want to sell?

In all honestly, I'm a little worried about the gas tank too. Any issue with it being pushed in like that? When I first got out of the creek, I though I heard the fuel pump whining, but don't hear it anymore

Everything seems fine so far. It was the drivers side that was in the deepest water. You should have seen the water pour out when I finally was able to open the door! But yeah, amp didn't see any water, my driver speaker was completely underwater, but that Polk is marine rated. I imagine there was water around the fuses too, but I haven't noticed anything not working....

....yet.


Otherwise thanks guys for the comments, although the winch was partially underwater, it certainly saved my ass!

 

Squeaky,

I wouldn't worry about the tank too much. I know a couple of other guys who have bashed theirs pretty good and none of them leak.

If you want, we can meet up and make a template of my skid. Or, if you don't have a welder, I could fab something up for you... with LilSkip's Offroad permission of course!

 

So, evidently I was on the carrier bearing pretty hard. In fact, it's no longer round



Pushed it all the way into those nuts:



Hit it here too:



and here:



Don't see any major dents though.

 

Wet-vaced several gallons out last night. Then of course it's snowing today.

Brused the snow off, front-wheel-drived it into the garage, and set up this super-deluxe fan to help air it out:

 

WTF? Where was that done? Drove through the boat last night, Rabbit Ears was sketchy as hell!

 

Just a few miles west of downtown. Unmaintained county road that goes behind emerald mountain. It was beautiful all last week, and pretty nice Saturday when I went out. Funny thing is, there's suppose to be a culvert for that creek, and this was just water that couldn't make it though the culvert

Really curious to go back later this spring when the runoff is gone and see what the hell I hit!

Anyway, yesterday was really interesting weather, I can imagine Rabbit Ears was terrible with the wind and heavy snow. They had a shitty day for the last day of the mountain and the pond skim.

Oh, and OEM carrier bearing ordered. Hopefully will be able to get that installed, bend the mount back, and be able to drive it later this week. Gas tank I'm still unsure about. Jace (lotsoftoys) says he's seen tanks dented like that where the sender gets bent and you run out of gas with an 1/8 tank. I guess we'll see when I get it back on the road.

 

Kind of hard to tell from the pics how deep the tank dent is. Depending on where the sending unit is it may not affect it too bad but I would go with Jace's advice.
If it were me,cause I'm cheap and stubborn, I'd carry a 5 gallon can of gas and drive it till it runs out to see exactly where you're at with the tank level when it dies.

I'm not familar with the Taco tank, but can it be pulled and accessed through the top where the sending unit is and maybe pushed back into shape with a dowel rod?