Steering column fix

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The reference I made to the air pump was my weak attempt at humor, specific to the 2012 trucks.

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?? I still don't get this ...

 

Man, Toyota gave me such a hard time about this when I had my 2006 Tacoma. I had the noise and play and they couldn't find the issue and wanted to charge me $2K to replace steering parts, not under warranty.

 

2012 model year trucks have a well-documented issue with secondary air pump failures. This issue is completely unrelated to the steering shaft issue under discussion in this thread. I made reference to the air pump issue in this context as though to point out that there is always something else to fix or modify.

 

Just did this the second time. For future readers, save yourself the zip tie and use a few small metal picture hangers. Won't degrade and you can bend it around the metal to stay secure. Unbend, force through, rebend.

Also took out much more of the play and knock.

 

How many did you have to use? I didnt see your post before posting my above reply, but as I stated, I could only fit a small zip tie. Will try again with picture hangers too as I can probably tap the metal hangers in there ensuring a tight fit.

 

Did this mod the other day and it helped remove some of the play, not all.

 

I believe this issue is the same to 4Runner and Tacoma. I think we really need to understand how both designs have evolved over time to finally fix this.

My vehicle: 3rd gen 4Runner 4wd (240k miles)
I wanted to figure out why whenever I hit a bump, my steering went ape. A smaller concern was a loose steering in the spline.

To understand this question, I did the following - all w/o driving until I finished the work:

Reman steering rack (I converted the roller to the solid thing) which came calibrated w/ ITR (no need to set dial or play with settings, ostensibly). I then placed OTR, LBJ, UBJ, rear ujoint/bearings/seals (thanks: "Drcoffee" @ toyota-4runner.org for not following FSM/reversing redesigned seal), replaced rad while dropping tranny and filling w/synthetic, new fuel filter, wheels balanced on the overly-hyped machine, engine gaskets/spark tubes/etc.

Result: the same

So I say fuck it, and I weld the spline. The next 4-5k miles were perfect. Steering was responsive with little looseness.

Then, something changed and something didn't. When I'd go over bumps, no more oh-shit type moments. However, the looseness expanded, and much more so. I'm now tracking down this looseness, so I came across this post.

I was wondering about how the following 2 parts compare:

45220-04020
vs
45290-35040

Why such a weird recall turn-of-events? Alongside the guide re-design. I think someone needs to run some numbers here.

I would like to understand the difference between the two. I will find a used 4Runner #2 version on Ebay, if we all can agree to crowd-source the following:

1) Each year's version of Japan's version of 45220-04020
2) Each year's version of Japan's version of 4Runner when steering guide changed '01

This is neither a steering guide issue nor a #2 assembly issue - as can be shown in the "design" of a 4JaM.Tac (-weld) truck.

It's a design defect. Maybe they were producing the same design defects abroad, but they just didn't find it optimal to change.

I exchanged bumpy ride/slightly loose for no bumps/extremely loose

Toyota needs to support its owners and be proud that people's trucks are still on the road. After all, these are the only trucks with this kind of mileage that not only could, but never were expected to be on the road like this.

 

I fit 3 in there. Size will make all the difference, I was using pretty small picture hangers.... but damn there was a lot of play. It drives really nice now (like it should in the first place...)

 

I fit three as well but now I have even more of a noise and definite movement in the column. Now even the tiniest of bumps and imperfections in the road produces a low pitch rattle. Taking to the dealer tomorrow to test drive with a tech to diagnose

 

Did the zip tie fix to our '15 Taco and it worked great. The dealer acknowledged the looseness and even clunking left to right and said it was "normal". Good lord. Where have all the decent techs gone?

 

Just got back from Toyota about this issue. They re-torqued all the steering components. They said there is a TSB to replace the intermediate shaft but it doesn’t exactly fit my truck which is weird. It’s also $600 to get done. What could be a possible cause of the rattling is the rubber bushing for a lack of a better word is starting to get worn down which is why you hear the noise. It’s wearing and the metal pieces are starting to contact each other.

 

How does a TSB cost you anything?
I have 2007 4x4 and my steering rack pops when I turn the wheel far enough. Dealer tells me there is no TSB for this...

 

A TSB ( Technical Service Bulletin ) . is a notice to dealers on how to address a specific issue.

It is not a recall, but is only free during the initial 3 year 36K mile warranty period. After that it is on your dime.

 

Sounds more like inner tie rod ends to me.

 

I literally just did this at a rest stop with a paper clip. Way better. Not perfect.

Need a proper bushing...

 

I have a 2012 with that exact same problem. I tried the zip ties but for my case it worsen it. Unmodified it was only on bumpy gravel road that I was feeling that play. Now with 2 or 3 big zip ties between the shaft and the collar, I feel the knocking in the steering about anywhere on the street and highway. It's pretty annoying.

I would like to only replace the green bushing but it doesn't seems to be available. And one new intermediate shaft is expensive...

Someone found a replacement bushing for that?

Thanks

 

did this today. was like a giddy school boy driving around. feels/handles sturdier. reduced steering slop/vibrations. very happy.

if anyone is having trouble fitting a zip tie in there i found pressing a screwdriver against the zip tie and the black cylinder and levering upwards (or downwards depending on which way your sliding the zip tie in) with a bit of pressure worked great.

 

Clunk and slop on my truck was because the green bushing in the intermediate shaft broke. Did the zip tie fix and it worked perfectly! No more clunking and no more slop. Feels almost as good as new.
I will probably change the intermediate shaft sometime down the line per the TSB. Dealer doesn't sell the bushing alone and price for new shaft is $350 and another $300+ for labor. GTFOH Part online is about $200 and I'd rather do the replacement myself.

Also, if anyone is wondering, the part number for the intermediate shaft (cab interior) is 45220-04020 or 45220-04010 (I believe the 04020 is the new upgraded version that replaces the old 04010 part).

 

I used paper clips. It's effective. Probably not perfect, but damn if ain't cheap.