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Steering rack done?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by fouillard13, Aug 2, 2015.

  1. Aug 2, 2015 at 10:45 PM
    #1
    fouillard13

    fouillard13 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    1998 Tacoma 4x4 with 250k. Steering rack seems loose. I have recently replaced inner and outer tie rods with moog. Also did the energy bushings. Jacked truck up and noticed that when I wiggle the wheel there is play where the inner tie rod mounts to the steering rack. Looks like play insid rack? Is it done? Also I am on original ball joints and noticed my putter tires wearing funny. Also hearing an annoying squeak when I hit bumps. Ball joints done? Thanks
     
  2. Aug 2, 2015 at 11:52 PM
    #2
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven LOC: 33.781461, -115.867251

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    check to see if the body of the rack itself is what's moving. it has it's own mount kit. napa number NOE 6504124. websites being slow or id post the link for you :\.
     
  3. Aug 3, 2015 at 1:00 AM
    #3
    YOTA LOVER

    YOTA LOVER Stay Calm, and Fire For Effect

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    I developed a lot of slop in the rack of my 95 where the inner tie-rod connects on the passenger side, guess it was tired of pushing 33"x12"s back and forth. Right around 200k, or just under. As mentioned above, check the bushings since you've already eliminated the slop from worn outer and inner tie-rods. If the bushings are good, ditch the old rack. It's a PITA to replace it by yourself, but you can get it done so long as the to/return lines cooperate. You can buy them refurbed or go salvage one. I think I was in the $300 ball park refurbed.

    I don't recollect the ball joints being too hard to do if you've got a pitman arm puller available at any auto store (looks like a block letter C, $30 at Napa), has a bolt running through it that'll push the end of the ball joint out of the spindle on top and the LCA on the bottom. The Napa one worked great, and fit just right. Using forks will be useless at that mileage (rusty/seized in place), and you're not going to beat the tapered end out with a hammer. Get the tool. When I did mine the first time they released violently, like a gun shot.

    I had my front end cranked up and chewed through ball joints, got really good at replacing them. At that kind of mileage, replace them before they fail and kill you on the highway. Squeaky or not, get them done. And while you're at it, check your LCA bushings. Mine shit the bed and caused the truck to track something awful on the highway. That repair cost me a pretty penny. But after I did all of those repairs, the steering was firm and responsive like the truck was brand new.
     
  4. Aug 3, 2015 at 6:51 AM
    #4
    fouillard13

    fouillard13 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Are those not the energy or why ever rubber red mounts I already replaced

    Also running 33 10.5
     
  5. Aug 3, 2015 at 11:11 PM
    #5
    YOTA LOVER

    YOTA LOVER Stay Calm, and Fire For Effect

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    Yessir, the red bushings are the good ones.

    Have you pulled the boots back from the rack to see exactly where the play is? The shaft on the D/S where the inner tie rod connects was moving up and down in the rack on mine, thats when I decided the rack was dead.
     

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