Steering Rack Leak/Rebuild

I have a leak coming from my steering rack, the top where all the fluid lines run into the control valve assembly. It looks bad down there but it really doesn't leak all that much.

I'm fairly mechanically savvy but I've never done one before, has anyone here done the rebuild? I found the rebuild kit here for 30$ shipped.
http://www.amazon.com/Edelmann-8790...e=Toyota|76&Year=2000|2000&newCar=1&carId=001

And the directions here.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/05+/data/ileaf/06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/045006.pdf

It seems pretty straightforward, but is it really a pain in the ass to do? Is it worth rebuilding it? I'd rather not spend all that money on a whole new one if I can just rebuild it. It looks like it requires a press and some specialty tools, is there any way I can jury rig some stuff? If I absolutely have to I know a guy with a shop down the road I can take stuff to use the press.

 

im am interested in this answer as well because i have a nice little leak on my rack aswell. it doesn't drip its just all sludged up. i sprayed it with break cleaner and ill keep an eye on it to see where it leaks from. hopefully its no big deal to rebuild it.

 

Do It! and make a write up, this would be a good alternative to
replacing one, local shops want like 700+ for that job...

 

That's how mine is. It isn't a fast leak at all. I've had the truck for two weeks now and it has not left a drip on my driveway or decreased the amount of fluid in the reservoir. Mine leaks from the top, where the shaft goes into the thing that bolts on the top that I forgot the name of and am too lazy too look up.

But the rebuild kit is like 30$ vs. 300+ for a new unit.

I am an env. scientist and that gets me into trouble. I've done a lot of technical crap so I will think to myself "Well I can complete and analysis on the chromium and arsenic concentration in saw dust, or zinc in soil using atomic absorption spectroscopy, so (insert massively complex mechanical task here) should be easy." So far it's worked out mostly

My understanding of it is that you pull the rack, mark everything that can move, then there are like 10 or so seals and o-rings inside the unit. Some of them need a specialty tool to pull them, and a press to put them in. The finished product is supposed to be air tight and they are tested by putting the unit under vacuum. It's like 6 pages in the factory service manual.

The biggest PIA appears to be the seals in the bottom part of the assembly, where the Inner tie rods go. Now mine leaks from the top. So I think that I cold just pull the unit, them pull the top assembly and rebuild that and not mess with those pressed seals. Then I have to ask myself if I am just doing that, does that mean there is maybe some way to just pull the top unit and not pull the whole rack?

 

Good job looking this up. What ever happen with this? I have 97 4x4 with leaking control valve.

 

Too far

 

your gonna need some special seal tools..if you dont have them the best thing to do is get a reman rack.