Steps for Re-Tightening LCA Cam Bolts

I'm about to do the LCA-bent-tab-bead-weld dance... hoping the cams aren't frozen in the bushings, but I'm ready for the fight if they are.

When re-tightening the bolts, do I snug them down with weight off the tires, then lower the front end and fully tighten under its own weight? 150 ft lbs on those bolts?

Thanks!

 

I believe while it is on the ground and isn't it 100 not 150

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/

 

Good, cause 100 is as high as my torque wrench goes!
Thanks man.

 

All movable/bushed suspension points should be torqued in compression, not droop. Using the wt of the vehicle is one way to do it (on ground or drive on rack), but that's not the requirement. Having the suspension compressed is.

You can do it with vehicle on stands under the frame by jacking an A arm till the vehicle starts to lift, then block it. Same on other front side. Then it's in compression.

 

You're going to want them tight. Wouldn't hurt to go past 100, FYI. And yes, torque on the ground. Since you'll be moving the adjustment while welding (however light), you might want to get an alignment anyway and the recheck torque when you get home.

 

Yup leave em loose, lower the truck slowly, then tighten in their spot.

 

@GHOST SHIP oh yea, alignment afterwards.

This is what I like about Tacomaworld: instant answers.

 

And get a good paint pen and mark them first. Then at least you'll be close when you drive it in for the alignment.

 

Or just do the alignment at home. Takes a bit of time but you can get shit spot fucking on with simple tools.

But yes mark stuff first before unbolting for sure!

 

I'd recommend going with the TC tabs instead of straightening the shit factory ones and welding them. May as well do it right the first time.

 

Had the same issue and went to the TC tabs and have never looked back...

 

Also forgot to mention ordering the MOOG greaseable caster/camber bolt so you only have to fight with that bushing sleeve once.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...lem-solver-caster-camber-cam-bolt-kit.317057/

$34 MOOG K100128 Alignment Caster/Camber Kit for Toyota Tacoma

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HCQ5NYS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Did you read where the washers round out and you lose alignment?

 

Once my truck was in alignment I tack welded everything in place. There was maybe a 1/8" of slop when rotating the cams, so I can definitely see that being an issue if you don't do anything to prevent it.

 

I wish there was a better alternative with a greasable bushing. I’m getting ready to change out my LCAs also and I’m just not looking forward to having to grease them every 6mo to a year.

 

You could always just trace them and cut your own cam washers, then tighten up the tolerances on the bolt hole. I was reading about someones boxed UCA's with heims for adjustments and using stationary LCA's. Would only require cutting/grinding off the LCA mounts and you could also replace them with beefier mounts. Never been impressed with the stock LCA mounts anyways.

 

I read 100 ft*lbs for the LCA bolt

It's difficult to get a 1/2 inch torque wrench to get to even 100 ft-lbs when the vehicle is on the ground. There simple isn't enough room to cycle the ratchet since the torque wrench is so long. If you have ramps, that would be ideal. The suspension is compressed and there is room under the truck to tighten things down.

 

It's 100 lb/ft. I had an alignment shop leave them loose not too long ago and now I double check them constantly

 

Yup. It's 100. I was looking at the nut at 155 vs 100 for the bolt.