Stiff ride after lifting

In the meantime start looking for wheels you think look good that are 16s/17s

 

Not trying to insult you or hurt your feelings.

 

@nudavinci64 and @whatstcp are here I believe. Help is on the way OP.

 

@JaCado Dont worry your not, any suggestion good or bad are welcome

@Taco-Obsessed Yea if i cant find a solution to this problem ill have to go down to 18 better last resort but not out of the question. Thank you =D

 

The tires are not as thing as I thought they would be but that is a very wide wheel you have. if you have not done a CMC on the truck you will want to get that done. Ever think of a different offset wheel and one not as wide? You can get a pretty beefy setup with a 8.5-9 wheel.

I would agree with most folks the block/spacer is probably what is really hurting you. The 5100's are not meant to be that high. Ditching both will def help. The 5100 wants to be closer to 3" of lift. You could get a longer shock but then you should really be looking at a drop back lift. The spacers no matter how you cut it for being that high will give you a bad ride. Getting around with a spacer although non popular is fine for many folks but not when you push the shocks to their limits.

If it was a basic setup I would say wheels not as wide remove the spacers/blocks. 5100 are fine add a leaf to the rear (if less you did already) and get a wide offset wheel or even wheel spacers instead of wheels that wide. I am running 315/70/17 tires and they are 12.4 but really measure closer to 13" and they are wide. I had to do quite a bit to make them fit well and they still rub some.

 

Consider 16/17 if ride quality is what you are after, there is a reason a LARGE majority of us run them. That said, were making progress here, 18<20

 

The Limited comes on 18's, which is why I mention them.

 

@knightofzero another option would be do the fabtech drop bracket suspension. The rims certainly don't help the ride but what you have effectively done is position the shock to be it's longest during normal driving conditions. What this means is that the shock can't extend down (no down travel). So your truck has only one option, let gravity do it's thing. The shock also wasn't designed to ride fully extended all the time (premature shock failure).

If you want to keep your current wheel/tire combo, do one of the following:

1. Get rid of the shock spacer/drop the 5100 a notch/get the maxtrac spindles/install a wheel spacer.
2. Get rid of the shock spacer/drop the 5100 a notch/ Install a drop bracket suspension

A longer shock won't work because you have also maxed out the articulation of the upper control arm uniball.

 

Apparently I can't spell "rid"...corrected

 

Thank you all for your suggestion really appreciate it a a lot Will look at all the suggestion and run from there and see what I do next.

 

yah you can def see I how maxed out the UCA is.

@knightofzero Who installed the setup? Just to throw it out there. If the UCA was tightened while on a lift and not on the ground its possible the UCA is stuck in full droop which would also give you a ride even worse then spacers. Something to check out as well. Loosen the UCA on the ground then retighten it. They should be done while on full load sitting normal.

 

@nudavinci64 It was done at a local off road shop in my town, Ill have a look at that acm as well, will the spindle help it correct droop ass well ??

 

@knightofzero this will let you keep your shocks (put them back at normal height) and upper control arms. But it's a pretty involved install. https://fabtechmotorsports.com/product/6-basic-system-w-performance-shocks-k7019/

The lift spindles by itself is much easier if an install. And less expensive.

 

They should have advised you against this setup in my opinion. Just something to consider if you're paying a shop in the future.

 

Thats what I was thinking as well for what he wants. Fabtech or BDS setup.

The lift spindles will get you the front lift you want without the spacers. 5100 should be ok but never ran them so someone can confirm that. Toss on the spindle and some add a leafs in the rear should get you to 4" or so.

 

I think that's only true if your dealing with stock OEM rubber bushings.

 

@08BajaBoy I see seems like spindle method seem more straight forward and less cost way to go because I dont wanna go to a 6in lift that to tall for me.

 

Well...it's only one more inch than what you already have. Haha

 

Don't forget you might need wheel spacers still. What rims do you have? Sorry if you posted that already.

 

Ive seen it happen on aftermarket UCAs which is why I was noting it. I run TC and they tell you to tight after the car is on the ground. We had a guy do it a a 4runner. UCA was pretty much stuck in full droop and gave a horrid ride (obvious reasons). redoing it and all on the ground fixed it for him.