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Stikle's Build

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds' started by stikle, Jul 30, 2013.

  1. Dec 22, 2013 at 10:13 AM
    #81
    stikle

    stikle [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2013
    Member:
    #102916
    Messages:
    765
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Seth
    Milwaukie, Orygun
    Vehicle:
    1997 LX Xtracab 4x4 V6 3.4L
    TRS MHI 6000K HID Retrofit, Smittybilt step bars, Wade bug guard, deckplate mod, backup camera, LED Cluster mod, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around with Eibach coils, white gauge cluster overlays, Cree LED front/rear aux lights, LED strip under-cab/rear bed brake/under-hood/under-door handle/glove box lighting, über puddle lights, aFe Pro Dry air filter
    Ha! Heeeeeeeeeeey....what the...?

    Yeah...I think I'll decline your most generous offer.

    You can send me your fender flares though. Thanks!

    :D
     
  2. Dec 31, 2013 at 11:03 AM
    #82
    stikle

    stikle [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2013
    Member:
    #102916
    Messages:
    765
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Seth
    Milwaukie, Orygun
    Vehicle:
    1997 LX Xtracab 4x4 V6 3.4L
    TRS MHI 6000K HID Retrofit, Smittybilt step bars, Wade bug guard, deckplate mod, backup camera, LED Cluster mod, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around with Eibach coils, white gauge cluster overlays, Cree LED front/rear aux lights, LED strip under-cab/rear bed brake/under-hood/under-door handle/glove box lighting, über puddle lights, aFe Pro Dry air filter
    Used some zip ties to mount my new Blue Sea fuse block ($40) to the cover of the regular fuse block.

    I'm thinking I could have gone with the smaller version. Plenty of expansion though, plus a place to put spare fuses.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2014
  3. Jan 1, 2014 at 5:55 PM
    #83
    stikle

    stikle [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2013
    Member:
    #102916
    Messages:
    765
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Seth
    Milwaukie, Orygun
    Vehicle:
    1997 LX Xtracab 4x4 V6 3.4L
    TRS MHI 6000K HID Retrofit, Smittybilt step bars, Wade bug guard, deckplate mod, backup camera, LED Cluster mod, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around with Eibach coils, white gauge cluster overlays, Cree LED front/rear aux lights, LED strip under-cab/rear bed brake/under-hood/under-door handle/glove box lighting, über puddle lights, aFe Pro Dry air filter
    I went back and upgraded the batttery to fuse block with 8 gauge. Should be sufficient for just the lighting I'm running...no winch or anything. $3 for 2' of black and 2' of red bulk at Lowes. 8 gauge heavy duty ring connectors...$15 for four. Ouch. Oh well, it's done now.

    Also discovered I missed the HID fuse when I was doing cleanup, so I moved that over too.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Jan 1, 2014 at 6:05 PM
    #84
    4banger4x4

    4banger4x4 Probably should'nt have done that.

    Joined:
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    Eric
    Whorelando, Fl
    the 12 screws at the top of the block, what are those for? Im looking to get a Blue sea fuse box and im trying to find out what i need
     
  5. Jan 2, 2014 at 8:47 AM
    #85
    stikle

    stikle [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Member:
    #102916
    Messages:
    765
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Seth
    Milwaukie, Orygun
    Vehicle:
    1997 LX Xtracab 4x4 V6 3.4L
    TRS MHI 6000K HID Retrofit, Smittybilt step bars, Wade bug guard, deckplate mod, backup camera, LED Cluster mod, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around with Eibach coils, white gauge cluster overlays, Cree LED front/rear aux lights, LED strip under-cab/rear bed brake/under-hood/under-door handle/glove box lighting, über puddle lights, aFe Pro Dry air filter
    Those are for grounds so you have one common place to ground everything to...I had those 4 hanging off the battery as well as the 5 positives. It was quite the CF. :D

    Now the only things coming off the battery are the vehicle negative and fuse block negative, and vehicle positive, fuse block positive, and 40 amp stereo amp. The fuse block said it would handle up to 30a, so I decided to play it safe and just leave that one direct to the battery.
     
  6. Jan 2, 2014 at 8:56 AM
    #86
    4banger4x4

    4banger4x4 Probably should'nt have done that.

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    Whorelando, Fl
    Thats what my battery looks like now too. I just added fog lights and im gonna be getting some lightforce lights too.
     
  7. Jan 3, 2014 at 7:30 PM
    #87
    stikle

    stikle [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2013
    Member:
    #102916
    Messages:
    765
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Seth
    Milwaukie, Orygun
    Vehicle:
    1997 LX Xtracab 4x4 V6 3.4L
    TRS MHI 6000K HID Retrofit, Smittybilt step bars, Wade bug guard, deckplate mod, backup camera, LED Cluster mod, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around with Eibach coils, white gauge cluster overlays, Cree LED front/rear aux lights, LED strip under-cab/rear bed brake/under-hood/under-door handle/glove box lighting, über puddle lights, aFe Pro Dry air filter
    Well, Firestone had told me that my battery was nearing the end of it's life. Being Firestone, I wasn't sure whether to believe them or not...they have a history of trying to sell me stuff I don't really need. That's why I only use them for alignment.

    Looking at my battery, it looked like there was actually some leakage...and I have no idea how old it was - at least 2 years since I've had the truck.

    So...I fixed the problem today. $230. *Chaching!* (Well, if swiping a card made that sound)

    [​IMG]

    Certainly not cheap, but now I can trust it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2014
  8. Jan 10, 2014 at 11:21 PM
    #88
    Zer0

    Zer0 Well-Known Member

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    SGV, California
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    99 PreRunner
    i would have ran that to the inside of the vehicle so you wouldnt have to run so much wire. im surprised you couldnt tap into 12v from under the dash for your alarm.
     
  9. Jan 11, 2014 at 6:56 AM
    #89
    stikle

    stikle [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2013
    Member:
    #102916
    Messages:
    765
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Seth
    Milwaukie, Orygun
    Vehicle:
    1997 LX Xtracab 4x4 V6 3.4L
    TRS MHI 6000K HID Retrofit, Smittybilt step bars, Wade bug guard, deckplate mod, backup camera, LED Cluster mod, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around with Eibach coils, white gauge cluster overlays, Cree LED front/rear aux lights, LED strip under-cab/rear bed brake/under-hood/under-door handle/glove box lighting, über puddle lights, aFe Pro Dry air filter
    Everything I've read so far indicates that I don't want this inside the cab. Only low power stuff should go inside, like switches. Then use relays to activate the higher power stuff (HIDs etc). That totally makes sense. I don't want to burn down my truck in case of fire.

    A professional stereo shop put my alarm in, and they powered right off the battery also, further supporting this.
     
  10. Jan 11, 2014 at 2:51 PM
    #90
    stikle

    stikle [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2013
    Member:
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    Messages:
    765
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Seth
    Milwaukie, Orygun
    Vehicle:
    1997 LX Xtracab 4x4 V6 3.4L
    TRS MHI 6000K HID Retrofit, Smittybilt step bars, Wade bug guard, deckplate mod, backup camera, LED Cluster mod, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around with Eibach coils, white gauge cluster overlays, Cree LED front/rear aux lights, LED strip under-cab/rear bed brake/under-hood/under-door handle/glove box lighting, über puddle lights, aFe Pro Dry air filter
    Added glove box lighting this morning:

    1. Picked up LED positive from a positive I had run already.
    2. Wired the negative to the negative on the clock harness. - goes to the pin switch body
    3. Wired the negative from the pin switch plunger to the LED negative

    This way the light is only on when the glove box is open and the pin switch is active. It's also hot all the time so it will work whenever. Easy peasy, just a little time involved.

    (This pic is off 90*, no idea why.)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2014
  11. Jan 18, 2014 at 5:04 AM
    #91
    NJBill

    NJBill Member

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    Bill
    Jacksonville, Florida
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    Nice truck! Thanks for all the links, saving me hours of research.
     
  12. Jan 18, 2014 at 5:27 PM
    #92
    stikle

    stikle [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2013
    Member:
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    Messages:
    765
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Seth
    Milwaukie, Orygun
    Vehicle:
    1997 LX Xtracab 4x4 V6 3.4L
    TRS MHI 6000K HID Retrofit, Smittybilt step bars, Wade bug guard, deckplate mod, backup camera, LED Cluster mod, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around with Eibach coils, white gauge cluster overlays, Cree LED front/rear aux lights, LED strip under-cab/rear bed brake/under-hood/under-door handle/glove box lighting, über puddle lights, aFe Pro Dry air filter
    Thanks! :)

    Today:

    Received and installed my aFe Pro Dry filter.

    Also received replacement ballasts from TRS (due to a recall) and swapped those in as well.

    Also #2: I eBayed a new battery hold down bar and put that in last week. The other one was all rusty and not worthy.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2014
  13. Feb 12, 2014 at 9:14 AM
    #93
    stikle

    stikle [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2013
    Member:
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    Messages:
    765
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Seth
    Milwaukie, Orygun
    Vehicle:
    1997 LX Xtracab 4x4 V6 3.4L
    TRS MHI 6000K HID Retrofit, Smittybilt step bars, Wade bug guard, deckplate mod, backup camera, LED Cluster mod, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around with Eibach coils, white gauge cluster overlays, Cree LED front/rear aux lights, LED strip under-cab/rear bed brake/under-hood/under-door handle/glove box lighting, über puddle lights, aFe Pro Dry air filter
    Finally did the rear diff breather relocate mod. About $10 in parts and 30 minutes of time.

    If opening and closing the door is Difficulty Level 0, then this would be difficulty level 1.
     
  14. Feb 21, 2014 at 10:17 AM
    #94
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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    Matt
    North NJ
    Vehicle:
    05 SR5 4x4
    trifecta tonneau, pop n' lock, Depo black bezel headlights, mb 352 wheels, 265/75r16 cooper at3s, visors, colormatched 2011 grille with raptor LEDs, much LEDs in and out Future/wanted: black valence, hood scoop, catback, CAI, 285/75r16s, OMD leaf pack mod
    Wow, glad I found your build! I'm a 2nd gen, but I am just getting into the wiring and LEDs mood recently and have learned a lot from this site. You have a bunch of cool stuff listed - I usually bought from superbrightleds.com or oznium.com..never considered amazon. I need to get the secondary fuse block I think, just for future mods. However, if I don't get it, can't I just use fuse taps into my primary fuse block instead of directly to battery?

    Edit:forgot only supposed to go max 10 amps with with those circuit/fuse taps
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2014
  15. Feb 21, 2014 at 11:54 AM
    #95
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

    Joined:
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    Male
    First Name:
    Matt
    North NJ
    Vehicle:
    05 SR5 4x4
    trifecta tonneau, pop n' lock, Depo black bezel headlights, mb 352 wheels, 265/75r16 cooper at3s, visors, colormatched 2011 grille with raptor LEDs, much LEDs in and out Future/wanted: black valence, hood scoop, catback, CAI, 285/75r16s, OMD leaf pack mod
    And you're helping me save some big bucks - ordering those LEDs off of amazon. When you ran you're 2ndary fuse block, did you put an in-line fuse from battery to block? Also, its 30 amps per slot, you know how many watts that is? seems like an awful lot if I did math right

    Edit: More than 300 watts
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2014
  16. Mar 5, 2014 at 2:47 PM
    #96
    stikle

    stikle [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2013
    Member:
    #102916
    Messages:
    765
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Seth
    Milwaukie, Orygun
    Vehicle:
    1997 LX Xtracab 4x4 V6 3.4L
    TRS MHI 6000K HID Retrofit, Smittybilt step bars, Wade bug guard, deckplate mod, backup camera, LED Cluster mod, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around with Eibach coils, white gauge cluster overlays, Cree LED front/rear aux lights, LED strip under-cab/rear bed brake/under-hood/under-door handle/glove box lighting, über puddle lights, aFe Pro Dry air filter
    Sorry for the delay, somehow my subscription to my own build thread isn't working so I didn't know anybody had posted here.

    You could, yes. What you're talking about is an Add-a-circuit. I've got one of those for my rearview LCD on the dash fuse block right now.

    Great! In case it's not obvious, I'm a big big fan of those LED strips. Very easy to work with.

    I did not. I've got the parts sitting in the garage to totally redo my current setup, adding a 100a breaker in-line, and adding relays for all things. That's going to be quite a little project, so I've just been putting it off.

    I didn't bother checking...math are hard. :D
     
  17. Mar 5, 2014 at 6:00 PM
    #97
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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    Matt
    North NJ
    Vehicle:
    05 SR5 4x4
    trifecta tonneau, pop n' lock, Depo black bezel headlights, mb 352 wheels, 265/75r16 cooper at3s, visors, colormatched 2011 grille with raptor LEDs, much LEDs in and out Future/wanted: black valence, hood scoop, catback, CAI, 285/75r16s, OMD leaf pack mod
    Haha, nice, I'm just going to have a 100 amp inline fuse from battery to aux block. I think I'm going to have blue or amber lights that shine down like your red ones, not sure yet

    Edit: decided on buying the 100 amp blue sea breaker after all
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2014
  18. Mar 27, 2014 at 3:47 PM
    #98
    BigE95Taco

    BigE95Taco Member

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    Ethan
    Vehicle:
    95 Tacoma 4x4 3.4 BEAST
    Lifted with shackle lift and spacers. Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks. Plasti dipped fender flares. Kenwood headunit and door speakers. DUAL 12" sub with 250 watt amp. Footwell LED light strips. Underhood waterproof LED light strips. Blue LED map light(meant to get white but I like it). LED reverse light.
    havent seen any updates lately. Anything going on?
     
  19. Mar 28, 2014 at 9:55 AM
    #99
    stikle

    stikle [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2013
    Member:
    #102916
    Messages:
    765
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Seth
    Milwaukie, Orygun
    Vehicle:
    1997 LX Xtracab 4x4 V6 3.4L
    TRS MHI 6000K HID Retrofit, Smittybilt step bars, Wade bug guard, deckplate mod, backup camera, LED Cluster mod, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around with Eibach coils, white gauge cluster overlays, Cree LED front/rear aux lights, LED strip under-cab/rear bed brake/under-hood/under-door handle/glove box lighting, über puddle lights, aFe Pro Dry air filter
    Nope. Just driving her.

    I'm pretty much "done" for now. I may upgrade the alternator and need to rewire all of the lighting I've put in so they're on relays like they're supposed to be.

    Other than that...one other secret project I have an idea for hasn't panned out yet. Technical difficulties figuring it out.

    Need to start putting some time and money into my Civic Daily Driver. Starting to show it's age at 14.
     
  20. Mar 28, 2014 at 3:28 PM
    #100
    BigE95Taco

    BigE95Taco Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2013
    Member:
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    Messages:
    11
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ethan
    Vehicle:
    95 Tacoma 4x4 3.4 BEAST
    Lifted with shackle lift and spacers. Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks. Plasti dipped fender flares. Kenwood headunit and door speakers. DUAL 12" sub with 250 watt amp. Footwell LED light strips. Underhood waterproof LED light strips. Blue LED map light(meant to get white but I like it). LED reverse light.
    sounds good! ill be watching to see what it is! good luck!
     

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