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Strongest Metal To Use?

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by jeremy_283, Nov 27, 2011.

  1. Nov 27, 2011 at 8:40 PM
    #1
    jeremy_283

    jeremy_283 [OP] Super Member

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    What will be more resistant to bending than a Galvanized Steel bolt? and it needs to be corrosion resistant too.....
     
  2. Nov 27, 2011 at 8:42 PM
    #2
    fireturk41

    fireturk41 I like to break shit!

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    whats the intended use?
     
  3. Nov 27, 2011 at 8:47 PM
    #3
    jackhart

    jackhart Well-Known Member

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    Without knowing anything more, grade 8 hardware is stronger than galvanized or stainless hardware, and is weather resistant as well.

    I put grade 8 bolts to secure the tow hooks on my jeep, and the tow hooks bent before the bolts did.
     
  4. Nov 27, 2011 at 8:50 PM
    #4
    jeremy_283

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    I have an elaborate anchor to anchor the power line coming into my house. It's got like 1400 lb galvanized cable, 1800 lb galvanized tensioner, and a 2400 lb galvanized eyelet bolt. The eyelet bolt sticks up about two inches from the welded bracket it screws in to. the cable pulls on it at an angle thats a little sharper than 45 degrees. It appears that the bolt is bending (or bent a little bit upon tightening the cable for the first time). So although it's a 2400 lb bolt I'm sure that doesn't include a side load. I'm looking for a bolt of the same size but is stronger. It needs to resist corrosion too.
     
  5. Nov 27, 2011 at 8:50 PM
    #5
    jeremy_283

    jeremy_283 [OP] Super Member

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    They make grade 8 eyelet bolts?
     
  6. Nov 27, 2011 at 8:52 PM
    #6
    fireturk41

    fireturk41 I like to break shit!

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    why not have the utility company come take a gander at it if it is their equipt. we have had numerous people take out the guide wires to the poles by our fd and the utility ccompany just comes and replaces them in about an hour at no charge to us, but they will charge the driver if caught
     
  7. Nov 27, 2011 at 8:53 PM
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    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    you can't shorten the bolt and have less threads exposed? That would help a lot.
     
  8. Nov 27, 2011 at 8:59 PM
    #8
    jeremy_283

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    I don't think this would classify as the utility company's equipment. If any thing they need to modify their power line so that it doesn't span such a great distance with relatively no slack whatsoever in the line.

    and is far as cutting the bolt shorter, it's not really possible cause it comes up through my shingles.

    It should be fine as long as it doesn't continue bending- that's why I ask for stronger bolt (so I don't have to ask what if)
     
  9. Nov 27, 2011 at 9:00 PM
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    jackhart

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    that i don't know, but i would be surprised if they didn't. there are specialty manufacturers that make all kinds of hardware, just have to do a little research to find what you're looking for.
     
  10. Nov 27, 2011 at 10:03 PM
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    2008taco

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    It should be their equipment up to the riser. It sounds to me like it shouldn't be a bolt at all, but rather a bracket. A picture might help if you could get one.
     
  11. Nov 27, 2011 at 10:30 PM
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    solus

    solus HOME!!!

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    adamantium :rolleyes:
     
  12. Nov 27, 2011 at 10:50 PM
    #12
    Bishop2Queens6

    Bishop2Queens6 Well-Known Member

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    You really can't choose a bolt without knowing the full extent of the forces upon that bolt.

    There is a misconception about the forces upon a bolt. I mean, if you're bolt is rated for 2000 lbs, and the line weights 1400 lbs, you think you're good to go, but the moment force can easily exceed that causing the bolt to sheer.

    For example, there was an incident I think in Texas in the early to mid 90's where a construction crew was trying to raise a weather pod to bolt on to the top of a 300 ft antenna. The hoisted the pod by attaching a 6 foot beam to it then attaching the crane's cable to that. Even though the pod weighed 1200 lbs, and each of the 4 bolts attaching the arm to the pod was rated at 1500 lbs each, so a total bolt strength of 6000 lbs. You think you would be g2g?

    Well, the bolts sheered taking down the tower and killing some of the crew.

    The moment force was 7200 lbs exceeding the bolts rated strength causing a failure.

    The point of the story is that you really need to know all the forces and load that bolt, or bolts are going to take before really making a recommendation especially if you're dealing with that kind of weight.

    There are few engineer's (I'm just finishing my degree) here on TW and they can help you out.
     
  13. Nov 28, 2011 at 3:31 PM
    #13
    jeremy_283

    jeremy_283 [OP] Super Member

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    It's all mounted up now (no photos though). It's a nearly perfect fit. Can you see in your mind how it works?

    And the eyelet bolt is cut shorter now too...

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1322522951.219442.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1322523011.534708.jpg
     
  14. Nov 28, 2011 at 4:09 PM
    #14
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    yeah cutting it shorter should help a lot by reducing the moment arm as was mentioned earlier. Glad it worked out for you.
     
  15. Nov 28, 2011 at 6:35 PM
    #15
    jeremy_283

    jeremy_283 [OP] Super Member

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    New issue. Its lightly sleeting and snowing at my house and I did not yet seal off the hole the bolt comes out of through the shingles. There is no more total open surface area than the face of a dime. Is there anything special I need to do before I seal it off when the surface is dry tomorrow? Like what if moisture gets under the surface. Also I am not currently home or I would temporarily seal it up.
     
  16. Nov 28, 2011 at 6:42 PM
    #16
    OZ-T

    OZ-T Quite an experience to live in fear , isn't it ?

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    If the area is soaked in the morning , you could use a heat gun to dry the shingles prior to caulking the hole otherwise I wouldn't worry too much .
     
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