Subway4X3 Shameless Copycat Build

Went full tilt and got this. Hopefully will help diagnose what ails my truck.


Autel MaxiSys MS906BT with a bonus digital inspection camera.

 

I just saw the MX can do trans tem, but the EM cannot.

 

How to replace rear shocks in five easy steps:

1. Remove fuckered up old shocks and grind off the OEM upper frame mounts and lower axle mounts.


2. Admire freshly rattle canned #graymanfab shock relocate kit by @Arcticelf and dry fit lower axle mounts and upper frame mounts.


3. Drill 1/2” holes into frame to bolt on the shock hoops. Liberally apply anti-seize to hoop mount and frame interface in an attempt to reduce future rust rot.




4. Measure length of bottom of frame to bottom of bumpstop. This will be the length of exposed shaft. Use a bottle jack to lift up the lower shock eye that’s bolted onto the adjustable lower mount. Tighten the lower mount clamps.



5. Make sure all nuts and bolts are tightened up, zip tie the reservoirs to the frame and reinstall tires.



Much thanks and gratitude to @Lux , @JCjeeper abd @Sofatank for sacrificing their weekend to help me with this shock install and also giving their best shot at trying to figure out my rig’s electrical gremlins.

 

oh shit, very fancy fancy for the old man!!!
your bumper is crooked...

12" smoothies!!!!!

you gonna weld those towers on eventually??

 

What’s going to keep the lower mounts from just rotating around the axle? I would take a paint pen and draw a line from mount to axle so you have a reference in case it does.

 

That’s a great idea. I’ll do that.

I still have more inches of future extension if I go with with a different leaf pack
or hangers. Ability to rotate that lower mount might help adjust for that.

 

My bumper is crooked AND bent in various places. Those damn malls can be brutal.

 

Welding is a definite possibility.

 

Massive amounts of friction, and the clamping force. We did a similar setup on @TwistedTLM4 s truck, no movement for several months.

 

They can be welded, but there's not much need too. The idea is to make 12" kings a reality for the welding impaired.

 

Those look great! And thanks for the write up.

Aren't you glad we didn't do that in tht aoaa parking lot?

 

Woulda been a piece of cake at the AAOA campsite. Lol

 

says you

 

Welp... this didn’t help much. Truck is still down.

 

What diagnosis process are you doing? I would read the engine code and abs codes with the method @Wheelspinner discussed awhile ago and go from there.

 

Already did that weeks ago. No Joy.

My new OBDII scanner is bidirectional, so it does the exact thing, just fancier than the jump wire method

 

4 new ABS sensors?

 

What do you mean? It's just not pulling codes? Or you can't take the codes and turn it into a diagnosis.

I found this post about testing the abs sensor itself. Jack the truck up, unplug the sensor, and hook your multimeter to the sensor. Rotate the hub and it should have an AC reading.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/check-wheel-speed-sensor.515031/#post-16291054

 

Dislike

 

Does the Tacoma have an external voltage regulator that can be switched out?

I have a new alternator and its measured output is 11.8 v.

We switched it out with another brand new alternator yesterday and it still reads 11.8v

Two new alternators can’t be the issue

Two weeks ago I fully recharged the brand new battery, and everything ran perfectly with no dash lights for 8 miles. Then when I restarted the engine, all the lights and reverse Speedo needle came back

I guess the first 8 miles the rig was doing well with the fully charged battery and low alternator charge rate... until the battery ran down to less than 11.9v

I’m thinking that all these lights are because of the low system voltage. So If I fix the low charge rate, the dashlights, window power might be fixed.

All are guesses at this point.