Successful combo flip key fob programmed and coded for 2015 Tacoma

Hey all,

I've been a long time forum lurker but have never posted before. Thanks to all of your commulative research (albeit in numerous and sporadic threads), I was able to successfully program a combo remote and flip key fob to work on my 2015 Tacoma. It unlocks, locks, and starts!

I was a bit frustrated that there wasn't one concise tutorial yet on this topic. There would be a singular comment here saying they got it but never followed up with how or what key they ordered. Below are my exact steps with links and pictures as best as possible for my steps.

There are 4 primary steps to getting this to work.

1. Ordering the correct key.
2. Cutting the key.
3. Programming the key.
4. Coding the key.

Let's begin.

Step 1 - Ordering the correct key.

When it came to ordering the correct key, there were tons and tons of comments and forums throwing out all sorts of suggestions. Many led to broken links and items no longer available. But by seeing what all everyone was getting to work and not, I narrowed down my selection to the key in the link below:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Remote-Key-GQ43VT20T-for-2011-2017-Toyota-Tacoma-Tundra-FLIP-key-G-CHIP/113560258028?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

New Remote Key GQ43VT20T for 2011-2017 Toyota Tacoma Tundra FLIP key G CHIP


The key features I was looking for was a combination key and fob to lessen down the bulk in my pockets. Flip out was a nice feature but wasn't necessary. This particular key is pretty good quality and definitely doesn't feel cheap in any way. The flip out motion is very satisfying as with the button clicks. Critical is that the key is a G chip key as that is what is stamped on the original 2015 Tacoma keys. That code correlates to the ECU transponder which I'll tackle in the 4th step.

Step 2 - Cutting the key.

For this step, I just went to my local locksmith that also did automotive keys. A regular locksmith could have cut it but sometimes their machines do not have large enough openings to receive a key fob. So to not run into that issue, I went straight to an automotive locksmith. I didn't get any issues from them in cutting it. He did mention that after market keys tend to be a bit thicker than OEM ones but he was able to get it to cut. I verified that it turned my ignition and worked immediately after.

Step 3 - Programming the key.

This step teaches the remote to control the locks and alarm system on your car. To program my key, I followed the exact steps on this website and it worked like a charm.

https://www.programyourremote.com/classified/listingdisplay.aspx?lid=7433

I'll copy and paste their directions here:

1. Start with the key out of the ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and drivers door is unlocked.
2. Perform these steps within 5 seconds.

A. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.
B. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.​

3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

A. Close then open the drivers door.
B. Close then open the drivers door.
C. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.​

4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

A. Close then open the drivers door.
B. Close then open the drivers door.
C. Insert the key into ignition and leave it in ignition.
D. Close the drivers door.
E. Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF.
F. Remove the key from the ignition.​

5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should lock then unlock automatically indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

A. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1.5 seconds.
B. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, Press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should lock and then unlock once indicating successful programming. If the door locks cycle twice, repeat steps A and B in step 6 as the remote was not accepted.
C. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.​

7. Open drivers door.

That part is pretty straight forward.

Step 4 - Coding the key.

This step matches your car's ECU immobilizer to the transponder code in your key so that your new key can start the engine. This step gave me a bit of some hiccups but with some further sleuthing I was able to figure it out. You will need to order an OBD2 diagnostic cable and run TIS Techstream on a laptop in order for this last part to work. It's not as complicated as it seems.

Firstly, I ordered this cord:

$52 Washinglee OBD2 Diagnostic Cable for Toyota Lexus Scion, USB Diagnostic Scanner Cable Compatible for TIS Techstream and 32/64 bit Windows

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B084H75MZ3?ie=UTF8

Washinglee OBD2 Diagnostic Cable for Toyota Lexus Scion, USB Diangostic Scanner Cable Supporting TIS Techstream and 32/64 bit Windows


This vendor doesn't explicitly say it on his sales page but he will provide you with access to a working version of Techstream to use. He sends you a link to download a zip file which seems sketchy but it all worked out for me.

The link the seller sends is below:

https://www.mediafire.com/file/c0vuzgsza0ma60o/Cable_driver_and_APPTIS_V6.1.rar/file

Inside you will find a video file that goes over how to install the program and drivers for the cord. It is critical you follow his steps for Techstream to work.

His steps are as follows (copy and pasted):
Step 1: Run "Techstream_Setup_V14.30.023.exe" to install it, after installation completed, one shortcut named ‘Techstream’ will appears on desktop, Modify its name to “Techstream Setup”.
Step 2: Please install the cable driver for 64 Win, "(64 bit Windows) Mini VCI Driver for TOYOTA.exe".
Step 3: Run “Techstream Setup” to set up ‘Techstream’. Menu “Setup”-“VIM Select”, Select “XHorse-MVCI” for “Interface setup”, click “OK” to continue. (Very important step)
Step 4: Run Techstream to diagnose and setup your car. Copy the shortcut “Techstream Patch 64bit” to desktop, always double click the shortcut “Techstream Patch 64bit” to run ‘Techstream’. No registration key is required.

With these four basic steps and the walkthrough video I was able to get the program up and running. (Please note: I did have to pause my computer's virus protection in order to accomplish step 2 in the list above)

Now to actually code the key within the program. I followed this YouTube video and it worked for the most part.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gc_yd4TpNs

Troubleshooting:
I did run into one issue at this point in the process.


If you get this message, I was able to read on some Lexus forums (they also use Techstream), that this may be cause by the maximum number of allowable coded keys are already coded. To get around this you must run the "Transponder Code Erasure" tool.



This tool does what it says. It erases all keys that your car is currently remembering except for the one you use in the process. It is critical to use one of your currently functioning keys to do this. Once complete, you can then run the "Key Registration" to program your new key fob and any an additional key if you have one.

All done.

After that I had a new working combination fob and key. I'm already super pleased with the smaller key chain in my pocket. In total, the key cost me $39 with shipping, cutting the key was another $5 and ordering the cable was $44 after tax. So for $88, I now have a new fully functioning key and if I want another it'll only cost me $44 to get a blank fob and to have it cut.

I hope this helps someone else figure out their process. It was a lot of searching the threads of Tacoma World to lead me to this solution. I can only verify that this works on my 2015 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road DCSB. I do not own any other model years to try this out on.

If you're in the Seattle region, HMU and I can help you out locally.

Best,

Stonylaroux

 

Thats a great write-up. Id be curious if it works for a 2010 with immobilizer dot key. Maybe some one will test it out.

Thanks

 

I feel like you’re just messing with us in Step 3.

 

Great research and work!

Thanks for sharing. I already bought the 12volt remote start, but this is VERY interesting to me.

 

What ever happened to removing the chip in the "old" key and placing it into the new flip key housing, thus avoiding the TechStream and cable part?

 

If you do that you lose a usable key. My Tacoma came with two keys and two key fobs. I now have 2 keys, 2 fobs, and a combo key+fob that all work. This is the non-destructive means of doing this.

 

Wait!
You can do that? Maybe even on an '07?

 

Yes

 

What did your original key look like?
Was the fob attatched to the key or separate?
I've though about and looked into it a bit but you're right the info is out there just not in one place until now.
Thanks for taking the time

 

The original fob and key were separate. Like the image below.

 

Gotcha, that's how mine is. I order a flip fob (the same as you linked). Ill report back for others. I have a manual transmission G key. Process should be about the same but we'll ses

 

I’ve had a flip fob that I haven’t been able to chip for a while now. Thanks for this. I’m going to order that cable and give it a go.

 

Good stuff.

 

I just got my key in but I forgot to get the obd2/techstream stuff so install will have to wait. It took alittle less than two weeks to arrive and seems to be pretty stout. More so than the original

 

O.P. Have you noticed a difference in the lock/unlock distance with that aftermarket key? What I mean is what's the max distance from the truck that the remote will work? About 3 years ago I bought an aftermarket all-in-one key from a forum member here and after programming it worked great with the exception of the distance. Even with a brand new battery it cut my unlock distance in half compared to the OEM remote.

I got used to it and after a while it wasn't that big of a deal. That key has finally died recently and it's time to get a new one. I went back to the original remote and its so nice to have the longer unlock distance. I'd like to get one that will maximize that distance and so I'm wondering if this is the one? Thanks!

 

This is exactly the same fob that VW used in the late 2000's (might still use it). The key ring loop has a tendency to break off.

 

Great info. I used the same site you linked to program some new FOBs a while back, worked like a charm.

I also have some spare uncut keys that have just been sitting around because every place around here wants to charge $130 per key to cut and program, which is ridiculous. I'm definitely going to order that cable and attempt to program the keys myself. Thanks for the detailed information.

 

Yep, looks exactly like my dads VW fob (maybe a 2009 or so) except mine has a Toyota logo on the back. I. Guessing the seller is able to just replace logo by opening it up. My techstream/obd2 cord is coming in tomorrow and im going to try to program per OP instructions. Mine is a manual transmission so I'll find out if there are any differences.. hoping not but will report back

 

Make sure you get the key cut before you try doing Step 4. You have to turn the ignition during the "Key Registration" process.

I just ordered a second one for myself to have another spare laying around. The first one came with a generic logo instead of the Toyota decal. The second one had a Toyota decal. Same seller and link above. The first one also came with a second American flag decal that I could replace the generic logo with but didn't bother. The logos are just sticker type decals stuck on the outside.



I will try to see if there is any noticeable range difference in the OEM and these fobs later.

 

Gotcha, I plan on getting the key cut tomorrow before starting on anything.
Thanks again for detailed instructions, I know it took a bit of time. Should serve the site and members well over time