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Suggestions for transmission fluid change on a 95 Tacoma Manual Shift

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by coolstone, Apr 12, 2017.

  1. Apr 12, 2017 at 9:16 PM
    #1
    coolstone

    coolstone [OP] Member

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    Hi everybody,

    New to this forum and found many useful tips!

    My 95 Tacoma manual shift is 182k now and really needs a transmission fluid change, since I got it with 133k in 2010. I just had it normal oil change after that and it still runs well now.

    I planned to change the transmission fluid and oil change myself, and change all the fluids it has, like brake fluid, transfer case?, differential fluid - not sure if it has.

    And, I dug a little bit about transmission fluid change and found it's really complicated to have a transmission fluid change. because someone said it's very hard to take the transmission pan and other parts from the engine if it's not done when it's 114k.

    It's my very first time to do a service project. So I'd like to hear from all the experienced pros here:

    1. What fluids I should change at 180k and what tools and materials I need to perform the change. There are not much useful resources so far I can find.

    2. Will it worth to do it myself? I mean, Will it be complicated or easy to moderate job?

    Many thanks~~~
     
  2. Apr 13, 2017 at 1:35 AM
    #2
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Form experience get two pumps for pumping in the gear oil. If your one and only one goes out you don't want to have to fill up a bunch of zip lock bags and squeeze it through a corner with a hole in it like cake frosting like someone I know. :anonymous:

    Here's a decent / cheap pump you can buy two of to be safe:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I used Redline MT 90 in my second gen mt and it made it feel like a whole new gear box.

    Step one for this is to break loose the fill plug (on the upper part / side of the tranny). If you can't get it open and drain it first you'll be bummin.

    Second step open the drain plug and drain when trans is warm. Close'r up and there might be a crush washer for that, I'm sure someone else will confirm. I can't remember.

    Pump in the recommended amount of gear oil and torque the plugs if you're a newb like me or good'n'tite if your a vet and you're good to go!

    Here's a video:

     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2017
  3. Apr 13, 2017 at 2:37 AM
    #3
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Don`t get the Automatic confused with your manual .

    I use a Pump made to fit on my 5 gallon bucket of gear oil

    I am on the second one since 1976
     
    Dalandser likes this.
  4. Apr 13, 2017 at 4:20 AM
    #4
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Bucket or pump? Lol
     
  5. Apr 13, 2017 at 4:37 AM
    #5
    DallasTX

    DallasTX Well-Known Member

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    X2 on MT90. As I recall, you fill until fluid starts to run out of the fill hole. I could not find any GL4 spec fluids at the local parts store.
     
  6. Apr 13, 2017 at 6:19 AM
    #6
    coolstone

    coolstone [OP] Member

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    Thanks to

    Dalandser

    and other folks

    for your detailed explanation and video for instruction!

    It's awesome!!! Will do it next week~
     
  7. Apr 13, 2017 at 7:20 AM
    #7
    DrZ

    DrZ Well-Known Member

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    Instead of a pump you could attach a hose to a funnel and lower it down from above into the fill hole.

    Changing the coolant is more important than the PS fluid. The coolant loses its corrosion prevention properties after a few years even if it's still cooling properly.

    The power steering cap should say on it use Dexron type ATF. Toyota uses that in the PS systems.
     
  8. Apr 13, 2017 at 7:47 AM
    #8
    coolstone

    coolstone [OP] Member

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    Got it! Thanks DrZ!

    Now here is my list of to-be-done service next week:

    1. Oil Change: NAPA Synthetic blend SAE 5W30 motor oil - 5 Qts with Proselect Oil Filter - 1
    2. Manual Transmission Fluid: Valvoline High Performance SAE 75W-90 from local store - 4 quarts (Transmission 3 qts & Transfer Case 1qt. ) Better be Redline MT90?
    3. Brake Fluid: to be determined by tester, but will use Prestone AS401 DOT 3 Synthetic Brake Fluid - 1 Qt (32 oz.)
    4. Coolant: Prestone AF2100 Extended Life 50/50 Antifreeze - 2 Gallon
    5. Power Steering Fluid: Valvoline DEXRON-VI Full-Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart; 822405

    Is it okay? Any suggestions?
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2017
  9. Apr 13, 2017 at 10:01 AM
    #9
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    My manual lists 5vz 4x4 2.3 q, 4x2 2.6 q, 3rz 2.6 q, and 2rz 2.7 q.
    Just use the widest diameter hose that fits in the fill hole for this method - synthetic 90 weight has the consistency of hair gel. A small hose will not work unless you want to wait for hours to fill. Use whatever oil that has the best reviews. It'll be better than the watery stuff coming out of your trans.
     
  10. Apr 13, 2017 at 10:32 AM
    #10
    DallasTX

    DallasTX Well-Known Member

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    Everybody has there preference, but I elected not to use the GL4/GL5 multi-grade oil. I have only used Redline MT90 in my '92 and I think it shifts better than my '15. This article at http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf might be of interest. It must be true, found it on the internet. :rofl: You be the judge.

    Redline is more expensive than normal gear oil, but comparable to full synthetics on the local shelf. At three quarts, the total difference is not that much and this is not something you change frequently.

    I use Mobile full syn in the diffs.
     
  11. Apr 17, 2017 at 12:02 PM
    #11
    coolstone

    coolstone [OP] Member

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    Thanks guys! I am workng on the project today.... already done the oil change.

    But I couldn't open the fill plug and drain plug for the manual transmission. It needs a 1" wrench. but not strong enough to move it. And also, I checked the maintanance schedule, it didn't say to change manual transmission fluid... any suggestion?

    Will work on power steering fluid and coolant flush now... waiting for answers. Thanks!~~~ TAT
     
  12. Apr 17, 2017 at 12:18 PM
    #12
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    if the coolant in your truck is red then stick with red. That's the Toyota stuff. Otherwise you'll need to make sure every last drop of red is gone before you switch to something else.
     
  13. Apr 17, 2017 at 12:24 PM
    #13
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Everything is metric on these trucks. Get a good set of metric sockets and wrenches. Only use the closed end of the wrench on fill and drain plugs if you don't want to get a metric ratchet set. I know that some imperial unit sizes are basically equivalent to metric ones, but you're going to be using metric sizes so often if you work on your truck on a regular basis it makes sense to invest $200 in sockets, wrenches, torque wrench, breaker bar, and even some ratcheting end wrenches. I bought all of my tools off of Amazon based on the lowest price tools with 4+ stars from hundreds or thousands of reviews on each item. Once in awhile I'll spend a little more at other stores or less at harbor freight depending on what tool it is.

    Anyway, with a 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, and 22 mm set of tools you can take apart almost every major part of these trucks. 4wd gets a little trickier, but still only a few more tools are needed. Make sure you use a 12 point socket or box end wrench on the plugs though. I just bought a differential from a junk yard with a stripped plug and I have to take care of that today. Not fun :-/ :(

    Also manual trannies take "gear oil" and automatics take "transmission fluid." It gets a little confusing when people say transmission fluid and are referring to a manual tranny :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2017
  14. Apr 17, 2017 at 1:29 PM
    #14
    ironbender

    ironbender Member

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    I need to do this as well for my 5 sp manual.

    Everything I have read states that this trans requires GL4 to protect the 'yellow metal' in the synchros, and that GL5 does not do that.

    Is that true or BS?

    Thanks,
    --Mike
     
  15. Apr 17, 2017 at 1:49 PM
    #15
    DallasTX

    DallasTX Well-Known Member

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    Everything I read led me to the same conclusion. I am no expert, so cannot say if it is true, but not willing to take a chance, so I stick with Redline MT 90 in my 1992 and plan on putting it in my 2015 at the first change.
     
  16. Apr 17, 2017 at 2:01 PM
    #16
    ironbender

    ironbender Member

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    Just read (some of) your link above. The author says the same. Thanks for that link.

    I'll probably order the oil from Amazon and eat the shipping to AK. GL4 is about impossible to find here.
     
  17. Apr 17, 2017 at 3:02 PM
    #17
    DallasTX

    DallasTX Well-Known Member

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    GL4 is hard to find in Dallas too. Everything on local shelf is GL4/GL5. There is a local Redline distributor, but I ordered on Amazon and got free shipping and a better price.
     
  18. Apr 17, 2017 at 7:54 PM
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    coolstone

    coolstone [OP] Member

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    Thanks Dalandser! This is My very first time to change oil and fluids...

    I think I might need 24mm wrench. The thing is the plug is kind of flat, not like the oil change drain plug, so a wrench is a better fit. But I am not sure if it is the transmission fluid plug. I checked with 95 tacoma owners manual, the position of drain plug is a little different. I will upload a picture tomorrow for you to confirm.

    I already have many metric sockets, and a few wrenches in my tool box from Costco. So I just bought a set of 20-24mm wrench set today. Hopefully I can loose the bolts when I get the wrenches.

    One more thing for suggestion: I had an accident today when I tried to change the brake fluid, I broke a bolt of the right rear wheel when I tried to loose the tire nuts. It was tighten too much in last tire rotation. So I stopped, and then sprayed WD40 on all left bolts on all four wheels so they could become easier.

    Will it work or help?

    Don't know what to do with it. Should I get another wheel? It's a pretty old truck and I don't want to put too much money on it. I am thinking whether should I sell it now or wait till it stops run and then buy a Tahoe.
     
  19. Apr 17, 2017 at 7:56 PM
    #19
    coolstone

    coolstone [OP] Member

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    Work done:
    1. Oil Change
    2. Power Steering Fluid.
    3. Coolant flush.

    To-be-done:
    1. Manual Transmission Fluid Change
    2. Brake fluid change.
     
  20. Apr 17, 2017 at 10:38 PM
    #20
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Wow they put that on pretty tight then. The bolts are not connected to the wheel. They're pressed into the hub. You'll have to tap out the rest of the broken one and replace it with a new one. You can do them all if you feel like it and replace them with longer ones, but you'll have to cut them down - I believe most guys use lexus IS-300 studs. You can read about it here if you want, but you don't have to if you want to just replace one stud, buy one from the dealership or parts place of your choice:

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-studs-are-too-short-what-to-do.119883/

    This isn't for a tacoma, but it's the general idea, and you don't have to have an impact gun. Hand tools with a breaker bar to press the stud back on will work:

     

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