Supercharger Pulley Upgrade Disaster [HELP!]

That will work in the beginning, but as the heat transfers from the hot pulley to the shaft they start to become one, and rotating the wrench will turn the pulley/shaft unless you have a strap wrench to hold it or can get it on there super quick before the heat transfer takes place. (I wouldn't count on it).

Notice how the video doesn't show anywhere near the end when the heat transfer has already happened and it becomes difficult.

 

i asked the guy that made the video and he didnt heat it up. installed at room temp

 

I've done a couple and it works just as easily as that video. You can take it one step farther and use a cheap serpentine belt tool to loosen the tension pulley and slip the belt off without ever getting under the truck and having to remove any skid plates. The tool will stay in the tensioner because it is too long to remove and still under some tension, but it allows enough to slip the belt off and it will be out of the way when doing the rest of the work.

 

My friend Scott brought by a can of freeze spray from his work. We froze the shaft and heated the pulley in a toaster oven. The thing slid right on. We stopped a little short of flush because we didnt want to over insert it, and have to use the puller to get the face flush with the snout. So we finished with the URD tool. It was a nightmare. The threaded insert unscrewed from the SC snout the first time and everything scattered. It messed up a couple of the threads. But after reading crashnburn80's thread. I took a few deep breaths and remained calm.

Long story short. I think you can polish the snout with emery cloth till you cant feel any burrs. Freeze the snout and heat the pulley. Slide it on with something to prevent it from going sub flush with the snout. Just to be extra safe. I'd probably re-tap the snout threads and have the URD tool handy in case. Why not?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/its-been-a-helluva-year-urd-install-part2.466963/#post-13995093

Between the pulley install and losing the two special gas submersion crimps needed for the fuel pump install the same day. I was completely exhausted by the end of the day as my truck sat for 2 days while waiting for Gadget to send me 2 more crimp connectors. Good Luck to ya. Let us know how it turns out.

 

This is all fixable like others have replied. Just some extra food for thought though. Youll probably need to ream and polish the inside of your pully if it has any galling or burs on it. This may be dificult without a precision lathe. Your output shaft can be stoned down where the galling is, that no big deal. Also if you find that the threads are totally ruined fr future installations, you can always drill and tap to am m10 thread.

Again, it sucks, but people have already given some decent advice. You are not screwed yet, not by a long shot.

 

Appreciate all the responses! I was able to install the second pulley last night without a problem. Just in case someone comes across this thread and is in the same boat, the below steps were performed:

1) Snout repair - For the gouging I used 600 grit sand paper to make them smooth and then scotch-brite. I'm sure a higher grit in between is recommended, but didn't have it on hand and already made 4 trips to hardware stores. For the threads, the timesert worked perfectly. It is expensive, but entirely worth it. I purchased a 8x1.25x20 timesert from Amazon and an 8x1.25x35 allen key bolt from ebay. Note that you will not be able to get a drill into the snout without hitting the front radiator area. I had to buy a right angle drill adapter that was kinda wonky, but got the job done. I would recommend an actual right angle drill to do it the right way. Keep it as square as can be with the snout and go slow. I also used a strap wrench around the snout and vise-grips against the rubber to help stop it from spinning when drilling/tapping.

2) Install take 2 - I really prepared this time and re-read instructions and these posts. This combination of things made it incredibly easy:

• Heated the pulley to 290 this time in the toaster oven. The first pulley had paint starting to bubble, but the little lower temps prevented that from happening this time.
• Threaded the allen bolt into the supercharger WITH globs of anti-seize on the part of the bolt that I wanted in the supercharger. The reason for the anti-seize is it puts some resistance on it so when you thread the insert tool in a hurry onto the allen bolt it doesn't spin further into the supercharger. I threaded the 35mm bolt a little more than half way into the new timesert threads.
• I used a can of air (upside down of course) to cool the snout. Used gloves and rotated it in between cooling.
• Used something called "super lube" (a synthetic grease) on the outside of the snout. I applied it post cooling and right before installing the pulley - it is good until -45 degrees Celsius.
• I bought a 15/16 ratcheting wrench (lowes - $16) for the install tool which made the installation much quicker over an adjustable wrench

For the actual install I had a friend take the pulley from the oven by putting a strap wrench around it, then holding it over the snout/allen bolt. I then threaded the tool onto the allen and went to town (breaker bar on the front of the tool). It slid on very easily and flush!

Again, thanks for the responses and help everyone!

 

Glad it all worked out. Nice work and thanks for the follow up

 

Turned a Fail, into a Win. Well done.

 

I installed mine on a very cold day (in the 30's) a few weeks back to take advantage of a cold shaft. Fortunately I didn't have any problems, sucks for the OP - hopefully it all works out for the best.

 

I've changed my pulley twice. I ruin the old one each time. Sucks cause I'd like to have sold it. I use a strap wrench to hold the new pulley while i use the press on tool