Suspension help

I want to change the suspension on my 2015 DCSB. I'm not sure what route to go in upgrading the suspension. I always thought that my ultimate goal was a LT kit. Although just lately I read something here on TW explaining the up keep involved in maintaintaining the LT and that it increases the track width. ( having no problem with the work, currently certainly lacking in the knowledge/ skillset area ) It almost sounded like it is designed primarily for desert Baja higher speed, catching air type of wheeling more than rock crawling. Is that correct? I know the articulation has to be much better but the last dam thing I need is to be wider track width wise. I see these taco builds with LT kits and spare tire gates hanging off the rear and just have to assume the are not trying to wheel where I am. I'm already to dam long and don't know how I could have possibly made it threw a couple areas with more track width even. Ive literally been almost slider to slider rock wall one side boulders on the other both mirrors in. I've done 3 seasons of wheeling with a couple of buddies that drive modified Rubicon. One with 3.5" of lift running 35's the other with 6" of lift running 37's. I have 2.5" lift runinig 33's. until this last trip to Moab I had gone everywhere they had. And actually I did still make the trek this time. Not without consequence however. I'm fully armored underneath with armored front and hi clearance rear bumper so nothing crucial as far as drivability. Just some pasanger doors rocker panel denting/scratching. Just under 2 grand to bring it back to beautiful. Ouch! Money better spent that's for sure. My sliders did their job so it's really only cosmetic. And I did have to winch my self up an area that the rubis climbed threw. I haven't mentioned that I'm only running rear lockers versus thier front & rear. And I'm willing to add front lockers but can't help but conclude that additional lift with more articulation isn't part of this equation. Will a mid travel kit be more suited for rock crawling. I know i can't increase lift much without changing a least UCA and I think TC makes a stock length LCA. Lots of dinero, I'm not a rich guy so I need to get this right. All your input is greatly respected, I'm still just learning.

 

I would suggest only going 2.5 -3" anything above that will throw your cv angles out of wack and ruin your cv. Uca are need when you lift this much to keep alignment within speck. Check out the mid travel bs thread in the suspension section. Lots of info in there to read up on

 

I'm already at 2.5" of lift. Doesn't seam like another 1/2" is going to accomplish much as far as clearance and won't change anything as far as articulation or travel/droop will it? I will check out the mid travel thread.

 

Yeah with 4wd going any higher then 3 will just throw out cv joints all the time. You could put a LT set up on. Lots of guys in here running a 4x4 kit. But it is a bit more in price

 

Get to a full three, then its time to trim, cut smash, weld and fit 35s.

That will get the truck 1.25 inches further from the ground and your axle/ifs is 1 inch further

If you want to crawl with your jeep buddies, id be looking at SAS, shackle flip/chevy 63s.

 

This^^^

 

i think the full 3 and 35s would help immensely. I would like to be more in the 4.5" of lift range. I just don't understand these other lifts I see for Tacomas. 4.5-6" are those just for the street or mall? Are their cvs all out of whack being ruined ? And how do they maintain alignment?

 

Any regular lift over 3" for a 4x4 is via a drop bracket. You gain lift, but you don't gain any ground clearance aside from the height added via the larger tires.
TC, All Pro and Baja Kits offer a 2" over 4x4 LT kit. 4" wider track width, 2" per side, cycles about 11-11.5" of travel and about 3-4" lift. That would be a great option, but expensive.

AP 2" over LT example - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/shmellmopwho-lt-dclb-expo-build.333383/
TC 2" over LT example - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mademan925s-truck.295220/

 

Up until this last trip to Moab my jeeper buddies were totally suprised how well my Tacoma performed. And I added the front armored pelfry bumper for better approach & rear wrap around for added clearance before the trip. Last season in Colorado they told me they thought i would have to winch myself up a particular obstical on the Poughkeepsie gulch trail. I was fine with that but i wasn't going to winch myself up without trying it first. I made it threw fine. After this years Maob trails everyone agreed I just needed more lift/clearance & possibly the front locker.

 

Still worry about the added track width on the LT in the really tight narrow spots. Pulling my hair out!

 

So is the the lift on the 4.5-6" kits lifting the trucks frame itself?

 

drop bracket lowers the front diff.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/drop-bracket-lifts.66013/


edit:
Yes the frame is higher off the ground, but your front differential has been lowered so you're not gaining ground clearance. You do gain a little ground clearance due to the larger 35" tires. You're better off clearancing your fenders to fit 35" tires on 2.5-3" rather than scrapping what you have for a 6" lift.

 

Thanks for everyone's input. I'm still not decided on what to do exactly. I certainly do not want to scrap my current suspension. Although maxing out to 3" with new UCA possibly changing the lower to shocks up fr

 

I was saying possibly changing LCA but at a stock length with some upgraded shocks from my current OME shock/struts pretty much does that up front. Not sure if I can keep my current coils even? Although I need the heavier coils for the armored front bumper/winch weight. But possibly longer coils? Same with the rear of the truck I have the heavy Dakar leaf packs and OME shocks for lift versis blocks. I have a rack on the bed but don't consistently carry enough weight in the rear to make the ride anything less than stiff/hard hitters. If I were to replace the heavy dakars I don't know if one can can get the leaf packs in a lighter version that are specific to each side to correct the Tacoma lean. I tried the spacer on the drivers side front that supposed to correct the lean but doesn't. Ive wanted to go to 35s knowing I would gain that 1" from the 33s. Then there is the regearing for 35s since there can be substantial loss of power from what I understand. I use the truck as my DD for work as well playing. I love the looks of my truck over a jeep even the rubicon's. One has to because the jeep(rubi) is so simple to modify some lift, some armor, done & done. Thanks again for everyone's input. I have to remember Yoda the force is with me!