Suspension Nightmare/Issues

OK guys, this might get a little winded, but I think everyone needs to understand the backstory.


Earlier this year, I purchased a suspension setup through a group buy. Below is what was purchased:


Bilstein 5100 adjustable front struts
Bilstein 5100 standard length rear shocks
OME 885X coils
1/4" top plate spacer
Deaver 1.5"-2" add-a-leaf
LR UCA's

I also had the company assemble the strut/coil assembly. Along with the above items, I also purchased brand new Cooper ST Maxx tires and TRD Baja wheels.


After receiving my kit with all of the components, had a local shop install the lift kit. At this time, they also aligned the vehicle through a local company (do not know). Picked up the truck and took it home. After a few days of driving, I noticed that the truck was pulling to the right. The suspension shop that installed the lift is a good drive for me, so I decided to take it to another shop and have it aligned. I know that Firestone is not the best place in the world, but had others tell me about this location as he had other suspension work completed.

It took the mechanic about two hours to “align” the truck and he told me that he believes one of the tires is not “round”, specifically the passenger front. I told him the tires were brand new and he said it is possible. So I then drove to discount tire and told the individual what I was running into. He then swapped the front right tire with the back left tire and told me to drive around with it. After driving, I noticed the truck was still pulling, but not nearly as bad as prior. Discount then ordered me another tire and I had to pay the “warranty” fee again.

About a week later, I had the tire installed and continued to notice that the truck was still pulling. I went back to Firestone and spoke with a mechanic and he said everything was within spec. I continued to tell him that was not the case as the truck is constantly pulling, which he kept blaming the tires. Luckily enough I received a refund.

During this entire time of the above, I was calling the suspension shop that installed the components and he said that since I went to another shop to have it aligned, they would not cover anything. Sounds to me like it was an easy way for them to get out of any liability.

After speaking with another local forum I go on, I was told about a new suspension shop located somewhat nearby me. I called them up and made an appointment. Fast forward to the meeting and the shop believes that it is definitely the alignment based on the readouts I brought from Firestone. The company he recommended as to an alignment shop has been around for years and have had some exhausts installed on other vehicles in the past.

Made another appointment with the alignment shop and had them take a look at it. The alignment shop also noticed that something was not correct. He said he tried to get everything within specs, and below are his results. He also thought that maybe a tire might be bad and said that in the past, he has experienced the left tire not being round, even if the truck is pulling to the right. Well, I went and had the tires swapped out at Discount and paid for another warranty.

At this point, I have no idea what to do. I am so frustrated at what could be wrong and tired of all of these companies blaming one another. Could it be the actual suspension components? I don’t want to have to continue putting money into the suspension and try to fix the issue with what I have, or if I should upgrade and buy a better product. I think that is overkill, but when I have been dealing with this for over 8 months, anything can be better.


I measured my truck last night and from the top of concrete to the bottom of the fender at the center of the hub have the following:

Drivers Side: 37 – 5/8”

Passenger Side: 37 – 7/8”


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Ok, how much lift in front did you get overall ?(sorry if you stated already didn't see it) The closer to 3" might require UCA's (aftermarket) to bring into true specs. just a thought

EDIT: this applies to 2nd gens

 

My guess is they didn't know how to adjust the LR UCA's or didn't know they were adjustable. I can't open your file so I can't see the numbers they got, but those control arms should allow you to get a damn good alignment.

I'll bet a dollar the upper balljoint is installed backwards. Pics of the UCA and balljoint?

 

The UCA's were installed correctly as I did speak with the alignment shop about this. I believe with the setup, I had about a 2" lift. I added UCA's just to be on the cautious side.

 

I have a feeling your caster is out on the right. Meaning the tire on the right front is too far back, or left front tire too far forward in this case. Adjusting caster can be very difficult on the tacoma if the bolts are seized. Please get a print out of the alignment specs and post.

 

@bjmoose knows a thing or two about getting good results with LR ucas

 

For those that cannot open the file, below are the results to the alignments:

Firestone - Performed on 5/9/15 - second alignment after lift installed.

BEFORE FRONT LEFT
CAMBER: 0.2 Deg
CASTER: 2.1 Deg
TOE: -0.45 Deg

AFTER FRONT LEFT
CAMBER: 0.3 Deg
CASTER: 2.1 Deg
TOE: 0.08 Deg

BEFORE FRONT RIGHT
CAMBER: 0.0 Deg
CASTER: 2.1 Deg
TOE: -0.15 Deg

AFTER FRONT RIGHT
CAMBER: 0.0 Deg
CASTER: 2.1 Deg
TOE: 0.07 Deg

LAST suspension shop for alignment

BEFORE FRONT LEFT
CAMBER: 0.3 Deg
CASTER: 2.1 Deg
TOE: -0.02 Deg

AFTER FRONT LEFT
CAMBER: 0.5 Deg
CASTER: 1.9 Deg
TOE: 0.06 Deg

BEFORE FRONT RIGHT
CAMBER: -0.2 Deg
CASTER: 2.3 Deg
TOE: 0.04 Deg

AFTER FRONT RIGHT
CAMBER: 0.6 Deg
CASTER: 2.1 Deg
TOE: 0.05 Deg

 

Your numbers:

 

Thanks Eddo.

 

Those numbers look great. Higher caster would have been better IMO, but you're well within spec. What is the upper balljoint caster set at? Neutral?

 

Yes, the UCA was set at neutral.

 

I'm very surprised at your before numbers too. Barely any adjustments were needed. Can you measure the distance from your fender to the edge of the tire on both your left and right front. According to the print out they should be the exact same distance. Your checking to see if anything moved here....

 

Drivers side Suspension

 

What's weird is how off the toe was after the previous alignment. Those springs will settle a bit which will change the alignment, but your toe shouldn't go negative like that.

 

Passenger side

 

Shoot for 0 camber, 0 toe and 3 degrees of caster on your next alignment.

 

Your numbers are not great.

Toe needs to be zero. Period. Your camber is good, but a patient tech can get those to zero both sides as well. Your caster could be better, close to 3 is great, with your UCA setup....but an alignment tech will never mess with those because you have to relieve the coil preload to adjust the upper ball joint plate in the UCA. That part is up to the installer. The shop that did the install should know by the diagram in the install instructions (or in their heads if they've installed these before and are reputable) where to "clock" the upper ball joint UCAs to achieve a nice castor and make your truck track nice on the road with no pull.

It was on my FJ, but I've installed these UCA's myself (with an Icon coilover, but that doesn't matter) and dealt with the Alignment guy. It only took one try for both of us, and all he did was final torque the upper ball joint nut on the LR uca's.

And you'll never get a good, lasting alignment getting it done at the time of install. You need to let things settle, retorque lots of bolts, etc.

Try a new shop is my recommendation.

 

Try a new shop? I've gone through almost all the shops in the metroplex that others have recommended. That is the frustrating part for sure. The only other place I can think of is 4 wheel parts and no telling what those guys do.

 

It's that or arm yourself with enough know how to help the first group along. Light Racing UCA's are finicky, and not a whole lot of shops know what to do with an adjustable ball joint. It's not a big deal, you can ride around at 2 or so degrees of postive castor all day. But you can get that with a stock UCA. If you want what you paid for, get them adjusted to achieve 3-3.2 degrees. You can get up to +4 if I'm not mistaken with the LR.

You have a nice setup, sooner or later you'll get things dialed in and that sucker will ride great. More will chime in with info, and do some more reading in the meantime. Good luck!

 

I had the exact same problems with a more simplistic lift. Pulled to the right even though it looked like the alignment was good. Took it to a separate alignment shop and they could not remove the pull. Took it back to the place that did the lift and said I want it right.... I did not mention but I had a vibration at 50 (balance). Lift shop made me an appointment with the first alignment shop to fix both issues for free.. Shop head guy said it was a bitch to balance. He had to switch two tires to different rims then road force balance. I have at least one tire and one rim slightly out of round. Anyway once the balance was good and crap tires in the back, it aligned well. I have no pull and no vibration. So in summary COOPER tires can suck and new rims aren't guaranteed to be round and a good alignment shop will follow through. Keep at it and start with a solid balance.

I have seen many threads were the truck pulls to the right after a lift. Not sure why but you have to get the shop to acknowledge the pull is there and test it after the alignment. The paper means nothing its the feel that needs to be right.




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