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Suspension replacement questions - CV popped out

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by 1stgen4life, Oct 12, 2017.

  1. Oct 12, 2017 at 11:19 AM
    #1
    1stgen4life

    1stgen4life [OP] Active Member

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    Hello all,

    Wanted to confirm I need new coils when I replace shocks. I think i know the answer but wanted to confirm. Attached are a few pictures of my coils(1999 tacoma). I bought the truck used @ 260k and put about 7K on it so far. Ride is quite rough on bumps.

    I suspect I need to replace them at same time as shocks given how compressed they look parked but wanted confirmation before I wasted money.

    My plan is currently to go with an OME kit of 881s + nitrochargers + Dakars to replace the aging suspension and get ~2.5in lift without needing UCAs.

    Any input appreciated. Thanks for your time.

    IMAG0226-20171012-104831733.jpg
    IMAG0225-20171012-104833219.jpg
    IMAG0228-20171012-104827274.jpg
     
  2. Oct 12, 2017 at 12:13 PM
    #2
    JT@Bajakits

    JT@Bajakits Well-Known Member Vendor

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    With 267K Miles on the truck, you are definitely not wasting any $$ getting new shocks and coils.

    JT
     
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  3. Oct 12, 2017 at 2:45 PM
    #3
    Blacktaco2042

    Blacktaco2042 Well-Known Member

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    supercharger/trd cat back 3inch lift 265/75/16 duratracs bumper guard led bar
    the lower bushing on that shock is toast
     
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  4. Oct 12, 2017 at 2:52 PM
    #4
    Gen1FTMFW

    Gen1FTMFW Well-Known Member

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    Well... what's left of it at least.
     
  5. Oct 14, 2017 at 7:57 AM
    #5
    1stgen4life

    1stgen4life [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks for the confirmation. I'm just getting into working on my truck but the bushings looked dead to me too. Suspension needs some love.

    Replaced lower ball joints already and trying to replace upper. Cant separate UCA and balljoint for the life of me. Boot was torn already but is now demolished. 4hours at least yesterday. At first I thought maybe I needed to hit the gym but then I snapped my picklefork using a cheater bar. Tried a prybar briefly. Hit it with a 4lb mini sledge till i was sore. Top of stud is a little bent near cotter hole now.

    Tried lots of WD40 rust penetrate. Gently heated it with a propane torch toward the end but am wary of heating suspension metal unless other think this is reasonable. I dont see how people are getting these out with a fork easily.

    This form member looks to have had an almost identical issue but never returned to say if/how he got it off.
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/removing-upper-ball-joint.301174/
    KenLyns had said "Get a pitman arm puller: http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-1752.html". Which I'm going to be trying in the next few hours.

    Any advice is appreciated. Ill post back if I fix it.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Oct 15, 2017 at 4:20 AM
    #6
    1stgen4life

    1stgen4life [OP] Active Member

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    Got them separated with a 7ton reversible puller 27271 and an adjustable wrench(no headroom whatsoever due to long center screw so ratchet would not fit). Now im finding after i returned it the 4x4 adapters dont fit in the area with the standard tool screw bolt. its just too long at full extension to fit in wheel well. (half way in is the upper section).

    This person however seems to have used a puller with the press adapters to get them out and in. I rented that and have been having problems getting it to press out. Ugh.
     
  7. Oct 16, 2017 at 9:07 PM
    #7
    1stgen4life

    1stgen4life [OP] Active Member

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    Completed, and more problems ensue. Angle ground bolt off. With a shorter press screw bolt this could have been avoided. Pressed out with 3 jaw puller and a second pair of hands(key, did not have first time). Pressed back in and popped CV axle out at the same time; Or at least there was a pop that we both agreed was the CV as we flexed the spindle outward too far when pressing in upper ball joint with wrench). Watching cv replace videos right now.

    It made a noise which has made me leave the car(2nd car) still till i find out more. Second pair of hands agreed.

    Can I just pop my CV axle back in with a hammer on the hub???? Its boot is still good and it didnt move more than an inch or 2 outward past where it popped out. Visually i looks like its normal still but obviously i question that. Youtube shows me the 3 spiny bearing things on the CV probably didnt move from position since the car was still.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-change-a-cv-axle-on-an-01-04-add-tacoma.21192/ Parts of this well documented post make me think it should be able to popped back in relatively easily. But I also question if using the spindle as an outward pry (accidently) is normally enough to pop that out or indicative of other issues.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2017
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  8. Oct 16, 2017 at 9:13 PM
    #8
    JaCado

    JaCado I make bad choices

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    @eccracer104
    Any advice on working on this 1st gen for this guy:thumbsup:
     
  9. Oct 16, 2017 at 9:24 PM
    #9
    eccracer104

    eccracer104 O.G. Member

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    Shoot, I'm not sure. I have yet to look into cv axle installation since I'm a prerunner. Appears as though OP has already sorted out the suspension and the ball joints.
     
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  10. Oct 16, 2017 at 9:28 PM
    #10
    JaCado

    JaCado I make bad choices

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    Ok. Thanks, was thinking you might know a little more than I and op kind of seems to be talking to himself. :anonymous:
     
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  11. Oct 16, 2017 at 9:36 PM
    #11
    eccracer104

    eccracer104 O.G. Member

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    I know there's a circlip that holds the cv in the diff and it requires some force to yank it out, but no idea if the same is required to put it back in.
    If I were on a computer I'd do some searching, but there needs to be a cv axle install write up on TW somewhere.
     
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  12. Oct 16, 2017 at 9:41 PM
    #12
    1stgen4life

    1stgen4life [OP] Active Member

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    It's all good. I'm trying to at least post back when I fix my issues so some poor soul who comes along may be saved. I am pretty pleased with my joint replacement tbh, it sucked. Its not urgent to get it rolling yet. Iv resisted testing my theories with pushing/hammering it till wiser minds chime in.

    I found the install writeup and was looking through it. - not sure how different the 99 is from the 01s CV https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-change-a-cv-axle-on-an-01-04-add-tacoma.21192/

    Key part seems to be this (step8) which is further confirming my thoughts im not in too much trouble. Your heart sinks when you hear unexpected parts popping.
    "Step 8
    Now you’re ready to slide the new CV in. This can also be tricky because you have to line up the splines, but just keep trying and turning it till it slides part of the way in. It will more than likely stop before going all the way in. Using the prybar and rubber mallet, gently tap it all the way into the diff. The c-ring will lock it in once it gets in there good."
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2017
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  13. Oct 17, 2017 at 9:01 AM
    #13
    1stgen4life

    1stgen4life [OP] Active Member

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    Any advice is appreciated. Planning to try pushing it in tonight or tomorrow. It looks like the "spline"(i think) should slide in based on diagrams iv seen.
     
  14. Oct 17, 2017 at 9:02 AM
    #14
    eccracer104

    eccracer104 O.G. Member

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    @desertjunkie760 you helped with 1st gen cv axles. Do those you need to tap em' in to lock into the circlip?
     
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  15. Oct 17, 2017 at 9:21 AM
    #15
    desertjunkie760

    desertjunkie760 @DesertJunkie760 (IG)

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    Yup, it's a hell of a lot easier to get it in than it is out. Rubber mallet on the end of the axle should work. CVs extend out so make sure it's compressed when you attempt to do so.

    If you extend the CV too far out then one of those 3 little bearing can pop out which sucks so be careful.

    As for the splines, if you didn't start looseing diff fluid I cannot imagine the axle coming out very much. Your splines should still be lined up. The C clip just compresses in the slot when forced into the diff. There will be a little bit of movement once the axle is back in which is normal. You should feel resistance but I'd guess its about 1/8" total dead space.
     
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  16. Oct 17, 2017 at 12:56 PM
    #16
    1stgen4life

    1stgen4life [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks so much for getting back. I will try that. I should be able to do this with the spindle still on right? (maybe a silly question)
     
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  17. Oct 17, 2017 at 1:11 PM
    #17
    desertjunkie760

    desertjunkie760 @DesertJunkie760 (IG)

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    Yes sir! It may take some finesse to make it happen but it is doable. I usually take the two bolts out of the bottom of the spindle and leave the UCA attached. Gives you more freedom but allows some kind of stability. An extra set of hands will be ideal but you can do it. There are splines on the spindle end as well so that may take a little effort to get lined up. Just work with it and move the CV back and forth a little. It'll go in.
     
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