Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

I considered that mount but it’s a piece of metal that bolts the panel to the actual sunglasses holder. 18 bucks if I remember right. I wanted one similar to the one Meso offered. Unfortunately Meso presently doesn’t offer one to fit the 3rd gen so we are making one that will replace the sunglasses holder and fit the 3rd gen.

We’ll see how that goes.

 

Is there anything wrong with tying my BD squadron sport fogs (4 of them, with each pair connected together) to one terminal spot(switch 1) on the switchpro?

Just making sure I don't reduce light output and or overload the system.


Also, has anyone installed rear bumper flood lights and had the physical toggle switch that comes with a lighting harness still installed and mounted somewhere (I want to mount it in the bed and have it a hot-trigger so I can turn on the back lights whenever) is this possible?

 

What is the BD wattage of each lamp?

 

26 watts each, so 104 total.

 

At 13.8 volts that’s roughly 7.5 amps total draw.

 

Oh ok thanks, no big deal then.

 

If you make a second one I would be interested in buying it from you.

 

Between the wife and myself we have and manage 3 businesses so spare time for us is a premium. I have a lot of time put into preparing this mount to work and at the same time look good. So far I have gone through 3 revisions to get to this point. That said i’m just about finished with the panel that will be mounted in my Tacoma 3rd gen. and once that is done and i’m satisfied with it I’ll post the STL file (free) so you can either print your own or have a buddy print one for you.

 

That would be awesome. I think I know someone local that can print it. Thanks for your hard work.

 

I feel pretty dumb right now, as I've gone through this thread twice now and am still at a loss. Apologies in advance for the likely stupid question. What is the purpose of the Blue Sea terminal block, fuse block and whatever that third blue sea item that a lot of people seem to be adding? I've looked up the functions of the devices individually, but not sure how those fit in with the SP 9100 since that seems to have some of those features built in? I have an ARB dual compressor and 30" Lightforce lightbar I'm going to be installing and want to run them from the

$659 SP9100 Switch Pros SP-9100 8-Switch Panel Power System With Concealed Mounting Hardware

SP9100 I just purchased, but want to get my ducks in a row before I take the time to do this install. Any help is appreciated.

 

People use the fuse block for stuff with constant power.

Terminal block and bus far so you can terminate everything and don’t have to connect wires, you can just screw then down.

 

I briefly ran out of mods this last week. So decided to sew a cover for all the electronics I’ve added under the hood. Only negative I could think of was heat buildup. But using the app I can monitor the temperature of the Switch-Pro.

 

And everyone else will follow...

 

At least I mounted my Switch-Pro vertical
Anyway the cover I made hasn’t made a difference heat wise. So I’m happy

 

At least the recommendation was followed...

 

I'm so close to finish this install.

Can someone post a picture of all 3 Switch Pro wires (Lt blue, white, pink) connected to the fuse box under the hood?

Much appreciated.

 

Here you go.

Blue (ignition) to 10amp injector fuse. (Do not use the 10 amp "AC" fuse. Others tried - and I was going to as well until I read closer - thinking it was the "accessory" fuse, and later found out it was in fact for the air conditioning (blower motor I believe). If you turn the AC to off for any reason, your switchpro will also be off and non-functional. Surely fine if you never turn your AC off, and the Switchpro will operate when vehicle is on, and turn off as desired when vehicle is off. But it will also not operate if for whatever reason you by chance do turn the AC blower fully to the "off" position.)

Pink (hi-beam trigger) to 10amp H-LP-RH-HI fuse

White (Switchpro control pad back-light trigger, which I used instead as backup light trigger) to red wire as shown below using quick splice.

If you want to use the white backlight trigger for that (SP control panel back-lighting on when vehicle lights on / SP control panel back-lighting off when vehicle lights off), then you'll need to tap that white trigger wire into a parking light circuit.

Using the white wire back-light trigger for backup trigger, your SP backlights will be on anytime the vehicle ignition is on. I wanted the use of a backup trigger for auxiliary backup lights more than I wanted the SP back-lights to go off in the daytime or when main vehicle lights not in use.

(Note, in the orientation I have the add-a-circuit fuse for the hi-beam trigger, the fuse tap is actually backwards from what it is supposed to be (add-a-circuit pulling from the load side of the donor fuse and fuse socket instead of the line side). Meaning, if the fuse for the switch pros hi-beam trigger pops for any reason, the switchpro will still pull voltage from the hi-beam fuse. I realize this and am okay with this. It just means if the short / draw is enough to blow the 5 amp add-a-circuit fuse, it may also blow the 10amp hi-beam fuse as well. I'm not worried about it. But it is technically wrong. If it bothers you, try using the H-LP-LH-HI fuse (the one right above it) with the add-a-circuit fuse tap in the correct orientation. I tried with the add-a-circuit fuse tap I had on hand, and it wouldn't quite fit there in the correct orientation either.

Really no different than tapping into the backup wire with the quick splice for the backup trigger without a fuse. The draw on these would be milliamps. If the wire shorts out on the chasis for any reason, you'll just blow both fuses instead of one. Really a non-factor. But yes, "technically" not correct orientation.)

The add-a-circuit fuse tap for the ignition trigger (blue wire) in my photo is in the correct orientation (add-a-circuit pulls from the line side of the fuse socket). Meaning if there is a short or over amp condition in that circuit, it will blow the add-a-circuit fuse and not continue to pull from the load side of the injector fuse.




Hope that is clear. It's not as confusing as I may of made it sound!

 

I saw your previous post on page 21 but now with an explanation makes a lot more sense. Thank you for taking the time.

Cheers.

 

One correction on my post....

The white wire is a backlight dimming trigger. From SP's install manual:

So, it doesn't turn the backlighting off when lights are off, the SP backlighting is apparently always on if the vehicle is on, but enabling this trigger as a backlighting trigger dims the SP control panel backlighting (to where ever you set the level to) when the vehicle lights are turned on.

I just have mine adjusted to a brightness that is equal to the overhead console backlighting. The lighting level is correct when vehicle lights are on at night, and you can't see that the SP backlighting is even on during the day. Again, IMO that trigger wire much more useful to me to use as a reverse / backup light trigger than it is to have the SP backlighting dim automatically.

 

Using the INJ fuse for the ignition wire do you find that the unit stays powered on for 10-15 seconds after you turn the truck off?