Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

I have not. The SP control panel shuts down and lights enabled by the ignition trigger turn off when the truck is turned off.

 

#4 White run wire to interior fuse (add-a-fuse/circuit) panel 2 choices:

 

I might try the fuse you used then. I tried a different 10a injector fuse but found it was always hot. So I used a 15a inj fuse which works but like I said it stays on for 10 or 15 seconds after the truck is shut off.

 

Moved my ignition trigger wire to the same one you used and it shuts off immediately now. I didn’t see that fuse when I installed, its kinda hidden away from the other fuses.

 

Doing a little bench pre-assembly. Bent a couple brackets to mount it vertically. Not sure if the positives are ok this way or if I should go with a shorter cable and flip the module over. Also should positive go to module first then to fuse block? Let e know if you see any potential future issues.
*edit* started going back through this thread and reading the 9100 instructions and have spotted a couple small changes already. Edit #2 ran into clearance issues running it vertically and had to lose the brackets and lay it flat. I'll try and make a cover when time allows.

 

Pre-wiring questions....

Hi folks, so I have just about all I need but have some questions for you wiring gurus. I will be the first to admit I am not the greatest at wiring so here goes....

I’ll be installing Baja Design rock lights for my third brake lights and will be using the existing Taco wiring for the bed and brakes. What I will also be doing is using two amber rock lights as well wired to the 9100 (these will be in the Meso 3rd brake light housing).

In the future, I will be putting in some rear ditch lights not sure what type yet.

What I was wondering is just what type of wire (guage, brand, etc) to use so that I can pre-run the wires as I have panels and such pulled.

Thoughts...again I am not the most educated on electrical issues so any and all suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Looks good! I drilled a hole and routed the SP power through the bottom plate. Just a little cleaner look IMO. I used a step drill which chewed through the aluminum like butter...

 

The repetitive ilk...horizontal and uncovered...

 

Not so fast Mr. Negative...
I can sew

 

Did you make that bracket to let the

$659 Sp9100 Switch Pros SP-9100 8-Switch Panel Power System With Concealed Mounting Hardware

Sp9100 sit horizontally on the power tray or did you buy it? That’s awesome

 

Yeah, I read that. His is installed correctly so the water doesn’t pool, and the stock orientation of the power trays mounts the unit incorrectly according to the

$659 sp9100 switch pros SP-9100 8-switch panel power system with concealed mounting hardware

sp9100 instructions.

I would buy a bracket like that if anyone makes another.

 

@MGMSangTaco i used a piece of 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum from the hardware store. I scribed lines for the holes and drilled them before bending them side by side in my metal vice.

 

I use Ancor marine grade wire. You can get it on Amazon. The rock lights you can probably use 16ga wire since they only draw .4 amps each. Rear ditch lights I would use at least 14ga.

For my Baja Designs Squadrons I used 14ga and for my 20” S8 bar I used 12ga.

 

Just use Liquid electrical tape spray after you’ve made your connections. Problem solved.

 

I finally got a chance to go out in the garage today and mess around a bit. I installed my sdhq battery terminals and leaned up my wiring. Can battery shops make custom cables? The short jumper has more torque on it than I think I want. Would like an end that is 90 degrees opposed from the other to eliminate the twist.

 

Finally had time to prefab my switch pro. This thread had a bunch of good ideas that I was able to apply.



I have a few finishing touches to do like cleaning up the liquid tape around the terminals. I used it to seal all the locations that could get water (but most likely wouldn’t) like the switch pro plug, and the bust bar.




I pre wired the bus with all weather connectors so when I add anything like a light bar or ditch lights, I’ll only need to wire up the male ends to the connector and I’m good to go. And with that sweet heat shrink label maker, organizing all this will be a breeze!

 

Btw the best thing to get, is the 3:1 heat shrink with glue lining! Seals it tight and keeps the heat shrink from moving. Plus since it’s the 3:1 vs the Home Depot one that’s 2:1, it makes it way easy to put over the rings or crimps.

 

My .02$ - if you have connectors to the "future" accessories, why this:

Also, since the Tacoma is not fiberglass like a '70 VW Buggy or a pleasure boat, running the accessories grounds to a buss bar is so retro.