Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

Look at you with a laser level. You fancy huh

 

Engine Bay steamed cleaned?

 

Not yet. Probably tomorrow.

 

Fancy dancy, my man. Fancy dancy.

Also, @mesojdm thinks my set up is fancy, so not a complete loss of a day...

 

yes, Fancy! oh and I want to steam clean my engine too now. LOL

 

It's actually not about being fancy. My last off road trip (or two trips ago, or whatever) included a long mud run. Soupy mud up and over the hood, everywhere in the engine bay and, honestly, the engine and everything around it is almost exactly the same color as the truck...

 

Props to you for having fun with your truck!!

 

How does one steam clean their engine if you don’t mind me asking? May be a stupid question

 

I couldn’t tell ya - I got a guy...

I work at a Toyota store, we have a guy who details our incoming used cars. Honestly, it may not even be steam cleaned, but that’s what we call it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

pm'd about steam cleaning

 

Let me know so I can see if ours does it around me

 

kapowee.

 

So what exactly do them do?

 

I noticed you put two 10A fuses in each tap. Is that required?

 

No. I just like to match the fuse. It really just depends on what you are connecting to it. In this case, most my add-a-circuits are between 5-10. I want to say you can go up to 20 though but I really have no idea. Hopefully someone with more electrical knowledge can chip in here.

 

Overview of Wiring up my Switch-Pro unit. Had this in my build thread but thought I would post it here as well in case someone can use the info.

Getting ready to run the wire from the Switch-Pro unit to the interior switch assy. There is a rubber plug on the drivers side next to the brake booster that allows easy access to the interior through the firewall. The hole is just big enough that you don't need to remove the electrical connector to get the wiring through. I cut a hole the size of the wire in the middle of the plug and re-installed the plug once the wire was through.








Removing the factory switch holder and storage pocket. This will be replaced with a SDHQ Switch-Pro mount.






The factory switch holder on the left and the SDHQ unit on the right....Quality piece!




OEM switches transferred over to the SDHQ holder.




Getting ready to install the switch assy. Using Loctite 243 to anchor the studs into the rear of the assy. Note: Don't assemble the unit out of the dash plastic or you won't be able to get the whole assembly back in the dash in one piece, the unit needs to be assembled in the dash plastic.




The Switch-Pro harness is very long, I coiled the excess up under the dash and secured it hidden and out of the way.




Unit assembled in the dash plastic.




And installed. The quality and fit of the SDHQ holder is awesome, looks factory!




Wiring as it enters the truck through the firewall, it's way up high and out of the way.




Terminating the power wires to the Switch-Pro. Marine grade heat shrink terminals work great, coupled with some marine grade heat shrink tubing it makes for tidy wiring. I think down the road I will make a cover for the unit to protect the positive terminals and keep any moisture off the unit.








Making up a harness for the Baja Designs S8 light bar that's installed in the bumper.










Light bar wiring terminated and labeled.






Connecting the trigger wiring to the fuse panel. There are three wires that get connected to the fuse panel, one for ignition so that the Switch Pro knows when the truck is running, one for lights (used to auto dim the face and also as a trigger wire if desired and a third wire that is a trigger wire you can connect to your choosing depending on desired application.




The mini add a fuse holder. This is a super clean way of tapping into your factory harness without compromising the factory wiring in any way.




And trigger wires connected. I ran the white wire to the low beam headlights circuit, the light blue ignition wire to the AC circuit and the pink trigger wire to the high beam circuit.








Wiring enters in the corner of the fuse box up from the bottom and heat shrink tubing on the wiring makes a good seal.




Starting to add the labeling on the switch panel, even more factory looking.




Wiring finished.






Now to download the Bluetooth app and program the Switch-Pro unit. This thing is slick!



EDIT: Add a Circuit Fuse Holders

The Switch-Pro kit came with one Add a Circuit fuse holder assembly that accepts Mini fuses. I purchased two more identical Add a Circuit fuse holders to use on the remaining two trigger wires (I don't like to cut factory wiring if not needed). When I pulled the OEM fuses I noticed they are using Mini-Low Profile fuses and not the standard Mini fuse that came with the Switch-Pro. The Mini Add a Circuits fit ok but seemed to have a tad looser fit than I like, although I'm sure it would work fine in the long run. I installed what I had and yesterday picked up a few Add a Circuit units that are designed for the Mini Low Profile fuses.

A standard Mini fuse on the left and a Mini Low Profile fuse on the right. Notice the plastic is thicker between the connectors on the Mini low Profile, this makes for a snug fit in the fuse panel.




Here are the Add a Circuit Fuse Holders....again Mini on the left and Low Profile on the right. The bottom fuse is for the factory circuit and you need to match whatever was in the factory location. The top fuse protects the circuit your adding, I'll be running 5 amp fuses on the trigger wires.






I replaced two of the three Add A Circuits with the low profile units. Because of where I chose to connect for my trigger wiring one location wouldn't properly accept a low profile Add a Circuit. At the High Beam fuse location there is a square fuse that sticks up a bit and prevents the low profile unit from fully engaging the fuse panel, the taller standard Mini Add a Circuit fit in this location with the extra clearance it provides. I swapped out the Ignition trigger and the Low beam trigger with the Low Clearance units and kept the Standard mini on the High Beam trigger. Note: I replaced the snap tie attached to the factory wiring bundle in this picture with tape to prevent and future chaffing on the factory wiring.



Hodakaguy

 

I think I have an older switch pro. I only have a blue and yellow wire that I need to connect. Which fuse did you connect the dimmer wire to? And why did you add the 5A fuses? Aren't those just 10A slots?

 

The dimmer/lights wire is connected to the Low Beam fuse. On the Add a Circuit units the bottom fuse is the factory fuse so you need to match that with whatever fuse you removed, the upper fuse protects the circuit your adding. In this case I figured a 5A fuse should be more than sufficient for the trigger wires.

Hodakaguy

 

thanks man

 

Doing some planning for lights (i.e. daydreaming while at work), and am thinking of a baja designs 30" S8 behind the grill. If their specs say that the amp draw is 9.99 amps... then I'm ok with wiring this without a relay to any of the switchpro switches, right? The 9100 has 4 with 20 amp switches and 4 with 35. I'd like to put this on switch 1, which is the top left of the switch plate. I figure I'll be wanting to turn on and off this bar while driving, and have my switch plate in the cubby where I can only see those far left switch positions easily (the steering wheel blocks the right side where the 35 amp switches live).

I'd prefer to keep everything simple and avoid relays.

https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/S8-30-inch-Driving-Combo-LED-Light-Bar.asp