Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

Good to know, that's what I was hoping for. I was concerned it may be necessary to drop the headliner for install. I've got a couple other projects on the truck that are trying up funds, so I'm not quite ready to purchase yet.

 

Nope definitely don’t need to pull the headliner. It was super easy, as was routing the wire

 

not a 9100, grabbed a 8100 off someone here for inside my alucab canopy. matches up to the 8100 in my cab

 

Can someone explain how to setup the output dimming? I see in the app there is a way to enable/disable. Once I enable it I don't see anywhere to actually set the dimming level??

 

Enable Output Dimming
• Enables dimming of lights. All switch outputs are dimmable. The dimming function for each switch must be enabled in the App menu under settings/output dimming. When the dimming function is enabled, the switch will still function normal if pressed on/off. The dimming is actuated when pressing and holding the switch on for 1.5 seconds. The switch led indicator will start to flash fast for 1 second, indicating a 70% output. Then in 1 second increments the dimming will decrease to 50%, 30% and 10%. The switch led indicator flash rate will also decrease, indicating the level of dimming. When the desired dimming level is achieved, releasing the
switch will lock in the dimming level. The level is not stored, and resets each time the switch is powered off. The next time the switch is turned on and dimmed, the level will start at 70% again.

 

So I recently ordered

$659 SP9100 Switch Pros SP-9100 8-Switch Panel Power System With Concealed Mounting Hardware

SP9100 Switch Pros-549$

Switch Pro power tray -102$

Blue sea systems blade ATO/ATC fuse block -39$

Blue sea systems common Busbars 150a, 10 screw w/ Cvr-20$

Blue sea systems 30a- 8 circuit terminal block-7.76$

1. My truck is a manual so my first question is,
Has anyone relocated the clutch fluid reservoir for the power trays

2. How easy is it to install the switch pros? I know electrical work pretty well but I haven’t really seen an install video / people install it so many ways- that being said is there a best way to do the install?

Thanks for your replies and time in reading this post.

 

I didn’t relocate mine. I used an SDHQ mount for the switch pro. I believe there is a power tray for MT that has a cutout for the reservoir. Not sure I’ve seen anyone do a relocation.

Installation is pretty easy. I’ve posted a bunch of pics of my install in this thread. I’d definitely recommend coming into the fuse box following the factory harness and using the add a fuse / fuse tap. Makes for a very clean install and easy to change / disconnect / etc if necessary down the road.

 

Yeah I’ve see it on the SDHQ but haven’t seen it on power trays so I’ll let you know how that turns out I’m making a YouTube channel and we’re going to be doing install video on that and switch pros I can’t imagine that it’ll be too hard! Just never see videos for anything like that!

If you could tag me in the threads you’ve posted with pictures I would really appreciate that! Also if you could inbox me I would love to ask you some more questions( I don’t know how to message people in here I’m new) thanks for your time brotha!

 

Did y’all powder coat your power trays? Looks really good!

 

Since you said that you're going to be making an install video; mind if I make a request/suggestion? Please, can you not add music to the narrated/instructional portions of your video? I see so many narrated, tutorial/instructional videos, where the creator adds background music, and the music is either too loud, or it's distracting, which makes it difficult to hear & listen to what the person is saying. It's like everything is a music video these days.

I do look forward to seeing what you do. I have yet to install my

$659 SP9100 Switch Pros SP-9100 8-Switch Panel Power System With Concealed Mounting Hardware

SP9100; trying to decide how to best install it, ONE TIME, so that I don't have to mess with it over & over.

Just my $0.02
Thanks.

 

You already know brotha I got you

 

@ThatTacomaThough I did the same setup you are going with. I posted some pics a few months back. On a totally unrelated note I have developed a squeak in the clutch pedal. Dealer is going to warranty it all from the master cylinder down. I'm thinking I'm going to have to temporarily uninstall when I take it in, mainly bc i dont want them messing up my install.

 

I feel you could you tag me in the thread! Did you need any other materials other than what’s supplied from the switch pros and the other components that’s mount onto the power tray?

 

I’d recommend split loom or braided cable sleeve to protect your wire.

A pile of connectors make life easier, in addition to heat shrink and zip ties.

 

How in the hell is your engine compartment so clean?

 

Check out my post a few pages back, I purchased the full powertrays setup with every option. Their stubby cables and ground cable made the install much easier. The clutch reservoir relocation is really simple and relocates it next to the brake reservoir and mounts to the powertray with a bracket, you'll see how it goes once you have it in your hands. I did have to trim the hose going into the firewall since the new position will cause the stock length hose to kink, I had to cut off about 2 to 3 inches.

 

I wipe down everything that I can see and fit my hand into when I wash it every other week. My car wash takes about 4 hours though.

This is my routine everytime I do a car wash:
Thorough pre rinse including underframe and any areas where dirt accumulates, wash, clean doorjambs, spray wax, dry wheels, vacuum interior, wipe down interior, clean windows, clean underhood, underhood visual inspection, check oil level and consumption, lube UCA uniballs and a final visual inspection of the entire truck top to bottom.

 

Gear/Plan:
Rigid Industries 50” straight LED light bar (Purchased, just need mounting brackets and wiring harness to arrive)
Baja Designs Squadron Sport Amber ditch lights (pending)
Baja Designs Squadron Sport Amber dust lights (pending)

*** Pending - there is a huge OffRoad Show coming up at the end of Sept here in L.A. and I’m debating on whether I pull the trigger now or hope that BD will offer some discounts at this event to save some $$.


Undecided:
- Factory bumper is coming off and a custom tube bumper will be installed in a few months, hopefully. I’ll most likely have another set of Squadron Sports installed on the bumper by adding mounting tabs the custom bumper, to replace the loss of the stock fog lights from the factory bumper removal. A 30” LED light bar may also get installed into the custom tube bumper at some point down the road.
- under the hood mounted onboard air compressor
- winch

I’m an admitted electrical wiring and install novice. But, I’m not an idiot, I can follow instructions and thoroughly enjoy that learning process. I also like to plan for project installs as much as possible. Putting together a parts list, for me at least, is a necessity to mitigate starts and stops during the install. I HATE not finishing a project because I forgot a fuse or harness or properly sized termination connections. Planning for future/potential additions, is also something I like to factor in, so that minimal effort is required when adding gear that I either didn’t have the funds for or need for, at the time of original install.

I’ve installed the stereo systems in my last two trucks but, frankly, that doesn’t require much electrical knowledge in my opinion. I do like to DIY as much as possible, not just for $$$ saving but, more importantly, for learning and knowledge gains.

Decisions, decisions:
I understand some of the benefits for the

$659 Switch-Pros SP9100 Switch Pros SP-9100 8-Switch Panel Power System With Concealed Mounting Hardware

Switch-Pros SP9100, I just don’t know if I can justify the cost. However, I also like to live by the mindset of, “do it once, spend $$$ smartly and do it the right way”. I’m also of the mindset, “I’ve got a 2018 truck, install new hardware/technology and keep it current and future proof”. I’ve also seen similar lighting installs that I’m planning to do, without the 9100.

Without the 9100, is the install of all the under the hood hardware THAT MUCH more difficult?
Do the benefits of the 9100, both install and day-to-day functionality, make the decision a no-brainer?
If you don’t go the 9100 route, is your experience simply that, the entire install process and operation of the switches feels more “manual”?
Are additional relays and terminal plates really necessary for what I’m planning to do?

For an electrical noob, PowerTrays’ website appears to have almost everything required to complete a clean install...thoughts?

Looking forward to hearing all of your experiences, thoughts and advice. TIA.

 

I started out without a Switch pro but after the first thing I decided it was probably worth the cost of one due to no longer having to fish wires through the firewall and having to find places to mount additional switches.

The other thing is the switch pro has a ton of configuration options so you can have things keyed off the ignition, use a trigger wire, etc. I figured it was only a matter of time before I accidentally left something on and killed my battery. Some places that isn’t a big deal, others a dead battery could mean a long hike back to civilization. Definitely worth the peace of mind for me.

With the switch pro, you run one set of wires through the firewall to mount the switch panel in the cab, then everything else can be done under the hood. Makes adding something new very quick and easy, just connect it or the switch pro leads under the hood, configure your switch and you are done.

I have a trigger wire off my high beams so I have my ditch lights turn on and off with them. There’s also a hot key to enable / disable this (on vs off road) when desired.

You don’t need any additional fuses or relays. All of that is part of the switch pro unit. You may need a relay for a compressor depending on the draw but that’s it.

My switch pro is mounted on a SDHQ bracket under the hood. All my leads are connected via weathertight connectors. The power trays setups look pretty but take up a lot of room and leave your positive leads exposed to the elements which isn’t good. All my working is in split loom or cable sleeve.

 

Have any pics of your under the hood setup? Trying to figure out all of the hardware required as well. The 9100 unit is obvious but, then comes the possible mounting solutions for both under the hood and the cubby replacement. If you haven’t swapped out the SDHQ bracket, I’m assuming you’re satisfied? The Powertrays setup does look clean, which I thoroughly enjoy seeing...I’m anal when it comes to the cleanliness of the wiring. But, if the terminals and Blue Sea gear isn’t necessary, I don’t want to waste money purely for aesthetics, it needs to be functional as well.

I haven’t read through the entire list of optional programming but, it would be nice to take advantage of the trigger option...I’d like to do something similar to how you wired your high beams to activate the ditch lights as well. If possible, tie in the 50” light bar to that trigger. That’s what has me on the fence, the optional programming of this unit is enticing.