Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

Doesn’t matter how long after printing, the “ink” will wear off if you mess with it too much. I used the cheap ones yeah.

lost my job in Jan and the label maker I was using was in my office. Been to lazy to buy the $20 replacement on Amazon lol.

 

Hmm maybe I'll take a chance and throw some clear heatshrink over the top. Double rubber

 

Is clear heatshrink a thing?!

 

i just look at the instructions and wire color? are you guys changing stuff around that much or what?

All my switch pro wires are connected directly to the accessory, heatshrink and shielded.

I was gonna do a bus bar and terminal block at first but i guess i don't really see the point?

 

Yap. I have some 1" and a selection of smaller diameters


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I'm non-committal. That's too stressful to connect directly. Plus I'm always changing shit up

ETA, I don't think u need to look at instructions. I think it's labeled on the SP, not colors but wire position

 

Is it useful or needed to use a bussman fuse/relay box with a 80amp breaker with the intention of using a SwitchPro 9100?

 

Quick questions. I’m installing a 9100 and am wondering what the reason is for having the fuse block (?) in blue or the terminal block (?) in green would be - as far as I can tell just adding the terminal block in the red with the 9100 would work as it is in the literature that comes with it (although they say it’s not good, but there’s no way I’m hardwiring the stuff to it and not be able to remove it / switch things).



My setup is a couple pairs of lights, a light bar, and 2 arb lockers with a dual compressor. There should be plenty of room to work other components in if recommended. Here’s my dual battery tray.



Also are the 4 wires (green, red, black, white) to the control panel regular cut and solder wires I can splice - my harness is too short for my rear battery relocation.

 

i don't have any of them in my truck, everything is hardwired to the switch pro

some people put in a fuse block for other accessories - fridge, radios, etc that have constant power

i don't really see a need for a terminal block personally.. i don't change stuff around all the time so all it does is take up more space.

 

The fuse block is for constant power, my HID's are wired there as well as my raptors.

The terminal block is just a convenient spot to ground everything. So your wirie harness doesn't have to split off off with one foot of positive lead going to the SP and the the other foot going to the battery, cluttering up the ground terminal

 

For me it’s convenience because the battery tray is on pivots where it swings down under the bed and while I’ll leave enough wire to let it droop out and remove stuff, being able to remove the SP and mess with terminals would help I believe - other than that I hear you and usually hardwire everything otherwise!

Thank you. The second terminal block in green is basically where all the wires from the first terminal block ground? I guess there’s a big ground wire going back to the negative battery terminal between the fuse block and the battery and I think there’s one in the picture between the green terminal block and the fuse block?

Also instead of only having power to the SP when the keys in the ignition setting, if I wanted to have stuff on when the trucks off, but keys in the ACC spot I could find a fuse to tap into that gets 12v in the ACC position correct? I’d like to have lights and not run the engine sometimes or run the compressor maybe just to hose dirt off things etc.

I’m more of a rustic camper so no fridge or other on all the time accessories for my rig.

Are there other possibilities that would make a fuse block useful - a winch is gonna be added after all this is placed out on my tray.

 

If you want to power things with the SP with ignition off, all you have to do is change the switch setting to not be ignition controlled. Thats done on a per switch basis.

 

It's mostly just a convenient ground point. Your 2 wire harness would run to the tray then split off right at the opening of the tray. Ground to the left and SP to the right.

 

Ok so to keep it on the kindergarten level understanding for me, is this how I could lay it out without a fuse block - just two terminal blocks basically one going to the lights and another for the lights ground wires and big wire back to the battery negative terminal?



and this is up around the frame height where it usually will be up and out of the way of water (behind batteries and a box of hdpe I’m building for it as well to block tire spray) - does it matter if I mount it horizontally or vertically - I don’t mind adding a vertical mounting plate if I would save from electrical issues!

 

Since you really don’t need relays and in line fuses hooking this up I’m wondering what you guys have done?

just gotta rigid light bar that came with harness I’m hooking up to the sp 9100, should I just use the connector off of light bar plugged into connector with there harness and snip the wires from the relay to have length Giving me 3 wires power,ground,accessory?
Or just cut the connector off light bar and lengthen those wires?

 

I snip the wires at the relay. Then I still have the connector at the light bar if I need to unplug it for something.

 

Awesome, figured that would work thank you!

 

So would a fuse box/relay and a breaker not be useful with a SwitchPro 9100?

 

I don’t have one for mine. everything is connected directly to the switch pro, except for my fridge which is connected directly to the battery. I just haven’t moved it to the switch pro yet.

A relay is useful if you are running a compressor but that’s about the only thing

 

But in theory can a person connect a fuse box/relay with a breaker connected to the SwitchPro 9100?