Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

Only if you want them to receive power

 

Looks great man! The best projects are the ones where you take your time to make everything look clean!

 

Cool. Thanks for the info.

 

Why do people prefer the SDHQ mounting plate, over what comes in the kit? The only noticeable difference is that is mounts the 9100.

 

What kit?

 

The SP-9100 kit. https://store.switchpros.com/sp-9100-switch-panel-power-system/

Mine came with a bare aluminum plate for mounting. The website doesn't say that it's included, so maybe this is something new they are adding into the kits?

 

Interesting. I don't think my kit same with one

 

Because the SDHQ one is made for the truck. The one that comes with the kit is generic.

 

I have a couple of questions for the

$659 SP9100 Switch Pros SP-9100 8-Switch Panel Power System With Concealed Mounting Hardware

SP9100....
How much of a pain is the installation? I’m not electrical expert but I can follow directions.
I see people posting pictures using the power trays mounting system. Is that needed? I thought with the SP you don’t need to use a fuse block anymore
I have a mount for the SP keypad so buying a kit like SDHQ has is kind of a waste. Besides the SP itself, what else is exactly needed?

 

I've researched a lot but don't have mine installed yet so you can trust my advice as little as you like.
Switchpros instructions explicitly say to not use a bus bar for your circuits. But it makes things much easier since you can quickly tap or change circuits without messing with anything else other than the config using the app. If you source local chasis grounds for each circuit then you don't need a ground bus bar but if you're type A and want your feeds to each circuit to have both power and ground you might prefer having a centralized ground bus bar. The powertray setup (or any other type of tray setup) is primarily geared towards supporting the bus bar, ground bar, and a potential aux fuse block for non-switched feeds.

I originally bought a full powertray setup but no joy with MT b/c the clutch fluid is in the way so I sold off the tray. The tray is nice to help organize and for the bling factor, shows off all the parts and with AT that space is kind of unused.

The install does not look like a pain at all but you have to put the power bracket somewhere so the SDHQ switchpros mount for the engine bay is a great option, ensures it's mounted vertically as required.

Perhaps the only semi-complicated parts are:

1. Feeding the switch panel wires through the firewall into the engine bay to connect to the power module (this seems easy but easy stuff can sometimes become a mild pain due to limited space to work with)
2. Sourcing ignition and parking light triggers

For 2 I'm using a DSIM A pillar T harness tap and will be shoving those two feeds through the firewall as well. Most of the installs I believe will source those direct from the engine bay fuse block. I'd rather keep my fuse block clean and since I'm already tapping the A pillar for dimmed illumination and I want the dome light as an aux trigger, I'm fine running 2 bundles through the firewall vs just one.

As far as what is absolutely needed, some way to mount the switchpros power bracket and a 125 amp bus fuse (not sure if that's included in the box).

 

Good words said here.

David your setup should be completed tonight and ready for you to install.

 

Thanks for the time to write this up.
I really do not want to use the power tray only because of its location near the power brake plug (already had mine messed up by a fuse block tray).
So, if SP doesn’t want us to use a bus bar, we connect the accessory’s positive wires directly to the SP wires and the ground to the chassi? I see where the bus bar comes in handy. I’m really leaning towards the SDHQ set up Just without the switch mount as I have one already. Seems to be a popular setup.

Thanks again.

 

Yeah, I mean, you need some way to mount the switchpros power module and most likely that's going to be in the engine bay and per their requirements it should be a vertical mount. The SDHQ bracket is about as good as it gets for truck-specific, out-of-the-way, super reasonably priced, put it somewhere safe setup. You might be able to mount it in the cab somewhere if you ran all your accessories into the cab too as well as the 125 amp fused power lead but that's sort of insane to consider. One alternative location, the spot for all my high current non-switchpros distribution, is the 2nd battery location in the corner on the passenger side near the windshield. There are several options for compressor brackets for that location, one by slee and another GTFO which I'm working on to house a capacitor and some circuit breakers for a compressor (in the bedside cubby) and for my amps (yet to be installed). But with just one battery now you're talking long runs of large power and ground to get there which won't be cheap.

So, you do have options. Just make sure you have a 125 amp fuse as close as possible to the + battery terminal, a direct lead from battery to switchpros + and - (neg switchpros power module goes direct to battery, not chassis) and that it's mounted in a vertical position and you're in spec from their side. The rest is all basic wiring. It's convenient to use a bus bar but it's not to their spec b/c of the potential for water/corrosion. Which makes you wonder, why the f can't blue sea make a highly sealed bus bar and ground bar which would be more suitable for this?

Your best bet going forward is to post photos of what you've done and if someone notices something that's worth mentioning you can decide if you want to adjust or not.

I have a meso driver cubby for my switch module, just need to sand and paint it b/c puppypunter made me notice the stripes on the bottom and I can't un-see that. Darn TW making every project into a mountain of work

 

@Mr.Pink Taco , Here is a setup I just finished up for @daveeasa . All my builds use busbars and haven’t heard of any issues. I’ve shipped them to different locations with different weather experiences. I know Switch-Pros does not recommend them and it’s more to cover there product. Yes it may ruin warranty chances if something happens, but they honestly run a legit business. A friends Switch-Pros was acting up, we called and spoke to there tech support and they walked us through steps to get it back up and running.

 

Wow! That’s awesome! And I see you’re using the SDHQ bracket which I most likely going with. I see you said you’ve shipped them to different locations.... I’m going to PM you, of you don’t mind. Great setup!

 

I have an idea of what I want to do. I quickly read through the SP directions but I really need to sit down and read them. Hell, if I can put pipes on my bike, install a radio on it (it was a police bike) by following the instructions, change fluids in my old car and bike, do brakes, install my CB and ham radio in my Taco, I should be able to accomplish this by taking my time. Just waiting for my switch panel from Meso to come in (ordered it yesterday, so I have time. LoL).

 

Has anyone had issues with the over current setting tripping even though the circuit isn’t over the limit?

I wired in some Baja Designs S1 lights today and wired each light to separate switches. The lights pull 1.5 amps each so I set each circuit over current to 5 amps. The driver side light on circuit 6 works fine but the passenger side on circuit 8 trips the over current instantly. I upped it to 10 amps just to test and it works fine and doesn’t trip.

Just to troubleshoot I moved it to circuit 7 and set that to 5 amps over current and the light doesn’t trip it.

I’m thinking maybe there’s something up with circuit 8 and it not reading current correctly?

 

So while installing the light blue wire. I found the line green wire to tap into. But when I was stripping the insulation off I accidentally snipped a blue and purple wires. Very skinny like 22g wires. I was able to do a half ass quick repair since I was in a pinch. Anyone have any idea what they go to.?

 

@caribe makaira

He will know.

 

I tapped into number 1. With the light blue wire