Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

I have a vinyl cutting setup, and have tried to make my own overlays. The tiny writing + dimensions is what makes it such a pain in the butt. Much easier with a laser cutter than a cheaper blade cutter.

I can try and work something up for you though if you wanna give it a shot.

 

Question. I just got my Rigid chase lights. I am going to set them up tomorrow. I just want to make sure I got the wiring down right. I plan on putting the strobe on my SP and also use the trigger wire for the strobe for reverse so the strobes go off while I am in reverse. So for running light I tap the red into my running light wire. For brake light, tap the white into the brake wire. And the rest for the white reverse and cargo lights. For the strobe, I should run the yellow wire to the SP’. And then for the strobes to go off while in reverse, put the pink trigger wire onto a reverse fuse (using fuse taps) and then program it for that function? Do I have the theory correct or am I missing something? I attached the chase light wiring instructions. Thanks.

 

has anyone had a problem with their trigger setup not triggering what you set to turn on? for example the cargo lights?

 

Genius. That space is totally wasted in my truck, I just put car wash credit cards in there but it's otherwise useless. Now that you've been running it for a while, any issues with drinks spilling on it? Any issues with driver attention, finding buttons while moving?

I'm also looking at the Meso overhead mount which might be slightly safer because you're not trying to find little buttons while looking downward, but I'm not sure it's really a big issue.

What I find is that the steering wheel obscures the view of the area with the cubby where the SDHQ insert would put the switch panel. I'm not sure it's the best solution.

 

I ran my trigger wires into the engine compartment fuse box today. I put my white wire into the low beam fuse and my switch pros did not dim when I turned my headlights on. I have a 5 amp and a 10 amp fuse in my fuse tap. I don't know what I am missing. I know the trigger wire works because I set up the white trigger wire to turn on my CB & Ham radio when I put my headlights on so I am going nuts trying to figure out why the switch panel won't dim..... Amy suggestions?
Thanks.

 

Probably you already saw this in the manual, but I'll just post it anyway in case it might help you:

 

Did that. But thanks.

 

Got my wires through the firewall today, finally. My hands are nice and bloody now. Darn clutch pedal is right in the way.

 

@SearArtist - I found this on another forum. This is instructions for an ARB single to Switch Pros.

-Thick red with inline fuse direct to battery positive, thick black/white stripe and small black (that are taped to battery positive wire) direct to battery negative.
-Three plug setups: use the one with the thick red/white stripe and black/white stripe to plug directly into the compressor (tape off the other two plugs these are for locker solenoids and not used)
-small single red and small single blue wires with small plastic plugs go to your pressure switch which you are still using in the compressor (doesn't matter which way they are plugged in)
-lastly the small red wire (in the bundle (of 4 small wires; red green yellow blue) goes to the switch pros while the other wires are taped off and not used.

 

Any issues with hooking up a unit with less draw onto the 35a outlet? I am out of 20a outlets

 

Hmm, yeah I'm a visual learner, so I'm not really comprehending these instructions. I'll have to pull my harness out and take a look at it.

 

I haven't had an issue. Running some 2amp lights off the #8 35amp.

You can go into the settings on the app and you can change the overload amperage for that switch.

 

Awesome thanks!

 

I spend a few hours taking apart the ARB harnass and cutting out the 75% not needed. Hopefully will finish the install next weekend. Will post some shots if helpful.

 

single or twin? Twin is easy cause it has built in relays. Just have to run the purple wire to the SP and ground the black wire.

The single seems more complicated.

 

This is all you need:



https://store.switchpros.com/quick-connect-harness-for-arb-compressors/

I’m sure you can make it yourself from the ARB harness, but jut to give you an idea of how little you need, 3 wires, for 2 lockers and a compressor. I assume the ground comes from the ground on the power harness.

 

you still have 15ft of unnecessary harness to hide as well. I don’t like having excessive harness wiring in my engine bay or under the dash. I’ll probably dissect the harness as well and shorten everything to my liking.

 

Single. It's definitely a bit more of a hassle.

Exactly. Half of the wiring you don't need and the other half is way longer than you need.

Here's what's left:



(Note, much of that will get shortened when I install.)

Here's what I cut out - plus a few other ground wires I trimmed off:

 

So I am finally going with a switch pros to power a roof light bar, ditch lights with backlight, bumper light bar, and chase light bar. The only complex light is the chase light because of the multitude of features. Based on what I’m running, would I be better off with the SDHQ system, or go power trays with the blue sea stuff? I want to wire all these one last time and don’t mind spending the extra money with the blue sea stuff if it’s worth it.

 

I was MT so my options were limited. I bought powertrays and had to resell since it was AT only. It was nice but pricey. I still have the blue sea fuse box unused but was able to put the bus bar and ground bar to work with a bracket @AY_ARONTRD makes which is MT compatible.

The SDHQ bracket vs powertrays is an interesting question for those with AT. I don’t think I’m in a position to advise on that part.