Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

I'm running a harness this weekend for my incoming RLD Designs canopy. Some possible ideas for you....

Here's what I'm planning:

- 7 wire trailer harness, 25'. Running from cubby, under truck, following path of factory harness.
- I will be running a separate larger gauge ground from metal bed frame support to metal (RLD Designs) canopy.
- Will be grounding RLD metal Roof Platform to RKD Canopy.
- Will be running 4 lead trailer harness wire from inside of canopy up to roof rack through one of these:



- 4 wire leads will be for roof rack lighting positive leads. Negative lighting leads will be grounded to rack.

I would suggest either a 7 or 4 lead trailer wire harness if you're going to be running anything more than a couple lights. I'll be using up all 7 of my leads on the following:
- 2x BD S2 Sport left side area lights
- 2x BD S2 Sport right side area lights
- 2x BD S2 Pro rear area lights
- 3x BD rock lights for interior lighting
- 3x BD push button on rock lights for lighting on doors (think camp area low output lights when doors are open on canopy).
- 12v and USB convenience outlet in canopy.
- Spare
- Also routing separate wire for 3d brake light (the separate red lead coming out of the bottom of the cubby).

Here's my cubby, ready to go back into the truck tomorrow. Short lead will be routed to canopy. Will tie in to various interior lights, convenience outlets, and a 4 wire harness going to roof rack. Long lead will be routed underneath, along frame, to switchpros and blue sea fuse box terminations as appropriate.







Not quite the quick disconnect set up I originally had in my head, but still easy enough to disconnect those 7 terminals and pull leads should I ever want to pull the canopy off for some reason.

After this weekend I will be pretty much held up waiting on the canopy to show up before I can proceed further.

 

Moved it over to inj. Where have you been tapping for ignition? I have intent to add fuse box in the cab at some point for both battery and ignition accessories. Want to get the taps out of the factory box.

This intrigued me.

https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/70207

 

I ran mine into the cab where I stole ignition and parking light from the A pillar tap and then I figure the pink off a domerock output (I think the 9100 can handle negative triggers so the domerock was mostly just to have one before they became unobtanium.)

Backlight seems to be good (dims off parking lights) but haven't tested a single circuit yet (soon, any day now, just need to run wire to the shell for the shell dome light which I'll set to the pink as ext trigger.)

They are tiny wires in the pillar though so I don't love that part, would rather inject power into the entire system via the in cab fuse box at least. I could see potentially re-routing ignition and +12v to somewhere beefier and then just keeping the A pillar tap for dome neg and parking light, or maybe doing parking light and dimmed illumination off the cab rocker and bypass all but the dome neg in a pillar.

But yeah, it all seems to work ok for now (haven't installed puddles yet cause too busy with wires...)

 

Hey guys. Just wanted to share the bezel I finally have available. Took a couple years to finally come up with a real product but it's on the site for purchase www.sincityoverland.com

 

This is all great info and really appreciate you sharing the details. I will keep this on hand for future reference!

 

Stumbled upon a wireless solution from Garmin. May be worth it for someone already in their ecosystem of compatible devices.

https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/718849

 

Thanks Dave for sharing. . Yea you need to fill up those buttons! Haha.

currently working on a MT setup for another member.

 

They don't. However, note that the full 35A outputs are above the max rated continuous amperage of a size 12 DTP pin which is 25A. So, if you wanted to use 2 pin DTP's and carry both the high and low side connections across the load you would need one connector each for the 20A channels and two connectors each for the 35A channels.

What I'm doing is using 4-pin flanged DTP's to create the high side connections to the SwithPro and then the low side connections are to a ground bus. This way I have one 4-pin connector that carries the 4 20A outputs and 2 4-pin connectors that utilize 2 pins each to carry the remaining 4 35A outputs. Yes, to add or remove an accessory means swapping the pins in the DTP plug. Just an idea to clean up things.

 

Finished this one up tonight

 

that looks great! I would like to order one after I see an installed picture

 

Top of the previous page.

 

Here’s a link to my thread I have going, I ship them as well. Grey one I just finished is going to Seattle. Also get discounts on BD lighting
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/socal-switch-pros-installs.656005/

 

Okay maybe this is on here and i missed it but i have my switch pro mostly wired i need to find a good ignition tap in my fuse box under the hood. People are using INJ and A/C from what i can see. im not a fan of tap into fuel injection. the A/c would be nice but in my 2021 tacoma pro the A/C has no power run to it. i would like some imput on what i should tap into thats no vital or just go to the kick panel?

 

I’ve had mine tapped off inj for 3 years and never had an issue

AC gets power when you turn the ac on

you can run it inside and tap off the cig ports but I much prefer running all 3 wires to the fuse box under the hood. Keeps it easy and clean.

 

I differ from others in that my thinking is you have to run the control wires anyway so why not shove the triggers through with them?

once inside the cab, you gave access to most signals and don’t have to worry about waterproofing.

However, if using high beams as an aux trigger, it is definitely easier to tap at the headlight.

I believe kmorgan3 has more c10 connectors for a potential T which should include all signals from the stalk as well as ignition? I wonder if @kmorgan3 might be interested in a plug and play C10 switchpros trigger feeds harness with color matched white and blue then options for the pink off what else is available.

I’m using an A pillar tap for mine which contains dome, ignition and parking light.

 

I'm in the same boat. I have a switch pro coming that is pre wired but I will have to hook up 3 wires. I'm looking for an ignition fuse (blue wire) to add a fuse as well as the dimming feature to add a fuse. Any info would help for a 2021 TRD Pro

 

Nevermind, @Shellshock if you read this.


If anyone has trouble connecting the Bluetooth, unplug the switch button module. I think it's resets all memory, but will let u re-connect to Bluetooth.

 

Is this still the best recommendation for an add a fuse on a 2021 OR? I'd like to keep the blue/white wires under the hood if possible.

I'll likely run the pink trigger to the headlight once I figure out which wire is the high-beam unless there's an easy location to use a fuse here as well.

thanks all

 

You can do all 3 in the fuzebox under the hood. That’s how mine is.