Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

Am I daft? I tapped the TAIL and IG1 NO2 fuses for triggers and am trying to conceal the taps with the MESO v1 fuse cover. I can’t fit the wires through the provided cutouts on the MESO cover.

I’m about to take a hot knife to the cover and notch out my own slots. Is there a more elegant solution I’m missing?

 

Nope, I had to make my own slots, in fact none of the provided slots were usable and I have 3 of them installed.

 

I recently added and arb compressor to my rig. I had to disconnect the battery to hook up the compressor. Hooked everything back and all the switches work, but there is a blue light dot on the switch panel like when it is linked by blue tooth except the app can no
Longer find it. It doesn’t show up as a blue tooth device. Reinstalled the app
But nothing. Anyone have any ideas? Kind worried if it goes wonky I won’t be able to reset the switches using the app.

 

Have you tried disconnecting/reconnecting the battery again? Another hard reset won’t hurt

 

Your just using the switch pros to trigger the arb relays right? Otherwise it’s over the 20A per circuit limit. It’s also over the 30A limit for most fuse panels so compressors are typically fused separately from other accessories.

 

Yeah, I just triggered it. Run it straight to the battery. Ended up pulling the connection for the switch pro and plugged it back in and it worked without glitching.

 

Hey Guys, We finally created an account to help out on tech issues like these. We will have 2 people monitoring TW for tech and sales. Please let us know how we can be of service. We appreciate you all keeping the thread alive and moving forward.

 

Did you get this resolved?

 

Hey Everyone, so im wondering if anyone has any advice regarding Battery drain. ive noticed the off delay and the sleep mode timers on my switch were set to long sleep cycles. My battery last year was sucking. Then it got warm again and the issue seemed to go away. Ultimately sleep setting was set to 3 mins. Then this winter it started to get cold again, and my Die Hard Platinum AGM 24F battery was struggling to start. Once started i got it roughtly 12.5 volts which tells me that the battery was going. Had the battery replaced this morning on warranty. Then went through all the settings on the switch and found the off delay, and enabled all the switches so they woudl turn off after 1 min or second. cant remember which. In either case, the only other accessory i have that could constant draw is my Owl Cam which i now unplug once im not in the vehicle at my house. Any suggestions here?

 

3 minutes shouldn't be enough to drain a battery. if the owl cam is running constantly, that'll drain down the battery. theres usually a low voltage or run time setting on those so its not running constantly.

 

You can check to make sure you have the low voltage disconnect enabled in the settings, as long as you have it enabled our system will cut off all draw completely at 11v. Also make sure that the IGN light on the power module is going off when the vehicle is off, if it has any voltage on that ignition wire after the vehicle goes off the system will never go to sleep.

 

do you have an image of where this ignition light is located? and if it is on after vehicle is off, how can i set it up to ensure it is going to sleep. also is there a way low voltage set to a high parameter? Anything lower than 12.5 will prevent me from turning over.

 

With our new app you can adjust the low voltage disconnect, however the highest setting is 12 volts. If the IGN LED is staying on after the vehicle is off you will need to relocate your light blue ignition wire from where it is going currently.

 

I have a 4runner but this thread seems the most relevant.

I have aftermarket led hi beams and I'm trying to use my hi beam as a trigger for my light bars. Trigger works perfectly turning on the light bars but when the hi beams are turned off there's a residual 6ish volts that lingers for 5 seconds after, leaving the light bar still on for those 5 seconds.

I've tried using a 12v zener diode with no luck. Should I try using a resistor to drop the voltage faster once the trigger source is turned off? What size resistor should work?

 

What year 4Runner and is this with low beams on or off? And where / how did you tap the signal?

 

2019, low beams on or off doesnt matter, add a fuse to the hi beam fuse in the engine bay fuse box.

 

Gotchya.

I can build you a T harness which I suspect will work. It’s basically the same as one side of the LED conversion harness. Which you might consider as well.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/oe...for-14-20-halogen-4runners.25899/#post-348255

 

My first attempt was to use a wire tap with the power wire going into the hi beam bulb but was the same result, moved to an add a fuse to clean up the wiring. I believe my lingering voltage issue is coming from my xenon depot xtreme led pro with the drl module, maybe a capacitor discharging. Hoping to just add a resistor to the my trigger wire to drop the source 12v to just over 5v needed to activate the trigger so when the hi beams are turned off the lingering voltage drops below the trigger voltage (5v I believe).

 

Installed a secondary switch pro, found a nice spot for it. Since I drive a manual I installed it over where the ect power button would be.

 

how did you mount it to the dash? It looks great