Switch-Pros Users

Perfect timing, i am pretty much up this step on my install.

 

I'm an idiot. Helps to know which switch is which. Turn on master switch in options, pick the master switch button, set the ones you want to activate to on.

 

Did you attach the pink wire anywhere (trigger 1)? I was thinking of doing an add a fuse on maybe the high beams to turn on a bumper mounted bar. Curious if you did anything with the pink wire or not.

 

I didn't see a use for that feature, so I snipped the wire. It's long enough that I can add it back if I want to

 

and... installed (thanks again @TAF_Taco for IDing the fuses to tap into). I'm pretty much a novice when it comes to installing things like this, so while it wasn't all that hard, it took me quite a while to install the powertray with switchpro, switchpro panel* and wire in a rigid scene light on both sides of the roof rack.

*while running the cable for the switchpro through the firewall... I also ran the wires and cable for a front camera. But I ran out of time and energy to do that this weekend. Already booked for next weekend...

 

Trigger wires are used for and external input to activate an output. Example: connect a trigger wire connected to the high beams. This will activate lights such as a rooftop bar and ditch lights when highbeams are on.

Another common application is to tie into the reverse signal, which can trigger some rear facing lights and pods.

On the 9100 system, there are two trigger wires, which can trigger up to four outputs each.

 

Hey guys, I'm new to this and just installed a dual battery system and

$659 SP9100 Switch Pros SP-9100 8-Switch Panel Power System With Concealed Mounting Hardware

SP9100 today. I ran into a few concerns and was wondering if anyone could help me out.

1. I powered the SP to my new auxiliary battery. When the truck is off, the IGN light on the SP power module stays on. Im assuming this is expected so that everything can be powered when the truck is off. But with the light on, even with all switches off, is this draining any battery power?

2. When the truck was off for about 5 hours I went to look under the hood and the ML ACR is still in the down position which I believe is the on position and the batteries are connected. So that would mean both batteries would be being drained if I was powering accessories. My kit didn't come with the red switch because it was stated online to be prewired to be completely automatic. If this were true wouldn't it release to the off position when the truck is off as to isolate and not kill both batteries? Im wondering if I have something wired wrong or looking at this the wrong way.

3. Lastly, I was wondering if anyone here has been able to get the outlet in the bed of the truck to be powered by the auxiliary battery so it can be used when the truck is off and batteries isolated and the same with the radio so it can be turned on and off with the truck completely off.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

For your first question i have a couple thoughts:

1. Check that your unit is setup, when I powered up mine it acted weird and I think the app said it was in slave mode. After I got out of the app setup it was good to go
2. Where is your ign trigger wire connected? If its hitting a constant supply it would stay on. Mine turns off right away when I shut the ignition off.

Here is a good thread for the 9100 model
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/switch-pros-9100-install-and-bs-thread.534369/

 

I though the instructions say specifically not to use a headlight for the yellow wire?


I mean, I can't seem to find a relay to tap that's for the side markers, but they've gotta be on some circuit!

 

My only thought for that would be if you are tapping into the actual wires. Using an add a fuse shouldn't be an issue. But, you could always email switch pros to verify.

 

Found it, the side markers are on the TAIL relay under the dash. That should be a safe spot to add a fuse.

Well it's the same circuit, and basically the same as tapping a wire:

The wiring goes from the fuse straight to the bulb, intercepting it at the fuse is no different than splicing it on the blue or red wires on their way to the headlight.

Maybe using an add-a-fuse OK because it's an extra fuse, but I'm guessing there is a different reason. Something probably to do with high beams or transient currents or something. Also thinking HID and Switch Pro would not play nice...

I'll shoot them an email at some point.

 

I just spoke to them on the phone a moment ago and brought this up.

The reason they don't want you to use headlights for a signal source is because if you are tapping off a system using an LED it is going to be a PWM power draw. A PWM signal is a pulse, and so the yellow wire for the light sensor could potentially get freaked out and not work properly. I got the impression no damage would come of it, just that it might not work properly.

Since I'm guessing you still have plain old boring halogen in your headlights, this is why it isn't any sort of issue.


Quick and dirty rundown for those that do not know what PWM is, basically it is a way to control brightness and extend the lifespan of LEDs by cycling their power on and off very rapidly (so fast the eye cannot see it)


(Fun little factoid: This is why Top Gear's slow mo shots of fancy Ferraris and stuff look like their lights are blinking)
(Extra fun little factoid: If you have LED lights in your house or something along those lines, if you wave your hand around really fast while lit by it you will start to see distinct multiple images of your hand.)

 

Any 3rd gen folks on here want to share what you did with the extra couple feet of harness for the switch panel itself?

I've got my interior stuff mostly sorted (aside from some 5A fuses for the low profile fuse taps that are on order) but the couple ways I've tried of hiding the slack didn't really work out.

Also for the general community info, the fuse locations I chose:

4WD 10A fuse on blue because I drive a prerunner and it's a free switched 12V
TAIL 7.5A fuse on yellow because it is tied to the marker lights that come on when the dash lights come on.

Fits nicely, blue wire tap blocks no fuses, yellow wire tap does block some but it has to because of the polarity of the tap.

Which reminds me, just a friendly reminder that fuse taps ARE POLAR and you can stick them in the wrong way around, and you will be fusing in series and not parallel.

 

Wound mine in multiple loops inside the cab and zip tied to be close to the firewall

 

One more followup question ... obviously the wireing from SwitchPro was long enough to get from where you mounted it to the switch panel where you have it. Where did you mount the actual controller? How close to maxed out is that wiring to the switch panel?

 

Exactly what I did

 

You should have more than enough length since the harness is 11'.

 

Can you explain to me how exactly this works?


This is what my customer brought me with the switchpros sp8100. Electrical isn't exactly my specialty

 

But has anyone used the pelfreybilt stuff with the switchpros before? I haven't seen anyone with what I have