Synthetic oil?

I just bought a 2012 Tacoma 4x4 in in reading the maintenance schedule B for the 2.7 four cylinder, at the bottom of the page it says "synthetic" Do these four cylinder trucks come with synthetic oil?

 

Amen to what litegide24 said. Even with the free maintenance, on my 2012 4banger, I am too picky about what goes into it. I changed my oil/filter the first time myself at 3000 miles (just because). I noted the dipstick measurement prior to draining the oil. Afterwards, I replaced the manufacturer's oil with Amsoil 0w-20 (even tried the Amsoil filter instead of the OEM filter. Will gladly report back later with results of that filter as the time comes). Even with filling the oil filter 3/4 full prior to install, the 'dipstick' measurement equal to what was showing prior to draining the oil ended up being 5.5 qts. Lots of discussion on this topic in previous threads. But, since the oil change I've been checking the level consistently for being too low/too high.. Seems my 2012 Taco will take 5.5 qts... My choice will be to let the dealer complete the Toyota Maintenance for tire rotation, etc. The oil is my passion.

 

I replaced my drain plug with a Fumoto drain valve.
unlock and 1/4 turn and it's draining.

But to answer the question, no... I've never used a TqW on an oil drain bolt, but I've been wrenching since 1967 or so when I was 3 or 4 and dad had me help him change the oil in the '53 Buick, so I've got a pretty good feel.

Don't know the part number, but the cap wrench that fits is marketed at Pep Boys as fitting the Chrysler Sprinter... a bit of an oddball with a more domed shape than their other wrenches, but honestly, a good strap wrench or even those long handled channel lock type grippers are a better way to go.

 

Torque wrench setting for oil pan drain plug is 28 ft/pds. Whenever I removed the oil pan drain plug for the first time it appeared to be just about the same amount of torque from the factory. To me, it seems a bit 'light' but, following the torque guidelines, I've never stripped a drain plug. I am seriously considering what Rich91710 has done in replacing the plug with a Fumoto drain valve.

 

The Fumoto is not expensive at all.
Personally, I got the one without the hose nipple.
The drain is vertical, and the valve is protected behind and just above the crossmember.
With the drain being vertical, there's no need to attach a hose to it to direct the flow unless you have a skidplate blocking it.

The lever is on the side of the valve, so it is quite well protected. I've used either the Fumoto or Fram Sure-Drain on every vehicle I've owned since 2000.

Tacoma (and all other Toyotas newer than 1993 except for Land Cruiser) takes the F-103.

This place sells them for about $29 shipped - http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

This one is a half a buck cheaper, but also offers USPS Priority shipping for $2.50 more, so $32 will get it there in a couple of days.
http://www.oildrainvalve.net/categories/Valves/Order-by-engine/Import-Vehicles/Toyota/

 

The problem with wanting "just one" is the range of adjustments and useful range. Torque wrenches are most accurate in the center 60% or so of their adjustment range, and I really don't like using them in the bottom or top 10% or so.

If I were buying "just one", I'd get one in a 3/8" drive with a 10-80 ft/lbs range. That'll cover spark plugs and most other engine parts. You'll want something bigger for lug nuts and some suspension parts.

I own 5...
1/4" drive in inch/lbs (admittedly you don't need this)
3/8" drive in inch/lbs (25-250, equals 2-20 ft/lbs)
3/8" drive in ft/lbs (10-80)
1/2" drive in ft/lbs (20-150)
And "The Beast".... 1/2" drive that ranges 50-250 ft/lbs.

My 10-80 3/8" is the workhorse for spark plugs and such. I think I paid about $75 for it.
My 1/4" drive is pretty much used only for torquing the cam bearing caps on my dirtbike. Aluminum cap, aluminum head, NO BEARING... the cam rides on the bare aluminum, and it takes about 5 ft/lbs or 60 in/lbs. Going to 7ft/lbs will smash the cap and gall the cam and bearing surface.

Always, always, always... When done working, release the tension on the adjuster... loosen the handle all the way to the lowest setting. Some will indicate "Park"

 

Just get the standard F103.

The "N" has the hose nipple... not needed unless you need to route around a skidplate, or you have a vehicle designed in the UK that puts the drain directly above the frame.

The adapter simply moves the valve away from the pan if your bolt is recessed.
The FG/T/N valves have a 90-degree exit for pans that have the drain bolt on the side.


For the torque wrench, you're looking at $150 to $200 total for two that'll cover you... 3/8 in 10-80 and 1/2" in 20-150.
I bought "The Beat" when I had my Duramax... it's lug nuts take more torque than my 2.7 Tacoma makes
Now, the only thing it is used for is the clutch hub nut and swingarm on my motorcycle which takes 120ft/lbs.
Since it's out, I'll use it for the axles which take 80, but the 20-150 would be fine for those.