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Synthetic oil?

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by blueshead, Jul 3, 2012.

  1. blueshead

    blueshead [OP] New Member

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    I just bought a 2012 Tacoma 4x4 in in reading the maintenance schedule B for the 2.7 four cylinder, at the bottom of the page it says "synthetic" Do these four cylinder trucks come with synthetic oil?
     
  2. litegide24

    litegide24 Well-Known Member

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    Yes it's recomended every 5,000 miles in the 2011/2012 (2.7 engines). Everything specifies Synthetic 0w-20 oil. Your first 24k miles (or 24 months) are free. However there are some dealers that are Very un-informed and will suggest 10k miles. Most importantly they will fill it with bulk oil and sometimes not synthetic. Which is what happened to me in 1 oil change, will result in a 2mpg fuel loss.

    My 2011 now has 18k miles on it, was at dealer 2 days ago for an oil change and was overfilled again. The receipt said Toyota part #... SAE 0w20 on it. I thought to drain a little and then be good to go. Well it turns out that this dealer's oil is different oil than whats written on the paperwork, it said (Toyota oem SAE 0w-20) but the fresh oil I drained was brown... Clearly different from their over the counter (same part number). I happened to have a new quart of the $7.50 Toyota SAE 0w20 on hand and was obviously different from their brown oil. The real (Toyota quart) 0w-20 is shiny and more of a light gold (more clear) as in previous oil changes. This oil drained back out seemed thicker too. Don't think that could happen being driven 10 miles (and in a low mileage vehicle).

    At that point I emptied all the oil from the truck (into clear milk jugs). Was an easy compare to see what they said they put in was bulk oil (not toyota SAE 0w-20 part number). I'm going to bring them a sample :mad: although that won't change things. Anyhow, As most of you know if you want something done right you need to do it yourself or really trust the person (actual mechanic) not service writer trained to half smile at the customer while pointing you towards the out of sight waiting room and refreshments.

    I decided I would spend the $45 and do it myself. I ran out to a different local Toyota dealer yesterday and got an oem filter and washer gasket. I started with putting in 5 quarts of Mobile 1 0w-20 synthetic in last night. Reading the dipstick on these trucks is tricky, you need to pull the stick and wait a few hours and get one clean pull and read (from the back side), after that 1st pull the tube is smeared you need to pull the stick out and wait a few hours, then insert it once, its no easy read and a one time pull.

    Added a little more this morning. I've got 5.5 quarts in it now, looks pretty full on the stick, about 1/4" over the full dot on the dipstick. I'm waiting for the tube to clear and will take a last reading. I'm confident that its full now. Used 5.5 quarts of Mobil 1 0W-20 Synthetic oil.

    Previously when I asked dealers to ONLY PUT IN 5 QUARTS, and I'll do the rest, it also worked out to be about 5.5 quarts. I always added about 1/2 a quart. Yes I know the book says 6.1 but at that level it reads wayyyy over on the dipstick read. I go by the stick read. 5 1/2 quarts max.

    See Pg 3, Post #56 http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/4-cylinder/178345-first-oil-change-2011-tacoma-engine-oil-how-much-much-see-photo.html

    Sorry for the long post but since you're concerned about oil I figured I'd spell it out so you can see what you're in for.

    Some dealers are aok w/5 quarts, some have arragant service people, plus they know it's free for you so you get the first kid avaiable - you're not getting any special favors. I always had a quart of the Toyota oil on hand to get it filled to just over the full dot on the dipstick.

    This weeks oil change at the dealer didn't go well (showed brown bulk oil) which brings frusturation since they claim (on the receipt) its the oem toyota synthetic oil (w/same part number as their single over the counter quarts). Some dealers fill it with whatever and you never know, this time was another learning experience.

    This is exactly why people do it themselves. One more freebie and I'm done w/dealer oil changes.
     
  3. kcendereurt

    kcendereurt Member

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    Work in progress. Extang tonneau cover, MB TKO 16" wheels with Hankook MT 245/70/16 tires, bed mat, UltraGauge, K&N drop in air filter, Amsoil Synthetic XL motor oil and filter, removable Fia' Bug Screens for front grill ; ARB winch bumper replacement installed; KC fog lights; Bilstien 5100's on front set to level out weight of bumper.
    Amen to what litegide24 said. Even with the free maintenance, on my 2012 4banger, I am too picky about what goes into it. I changed my oil/filter the first time myself at 3000 miles (just because). I noted the dipstick measurement prior to draining the oil. Afterwards, I replaced the manufacturer's oil with Amsoil 0w-20 (even tried the Amsoil filter instead of the OEM filter. Will gladly report back later with results of that filter as the time comes). Even with filling the oil filter 3/4 full prior to install, the 'dipstick' measurement equal to what was showing prior to draining the oil ended up being 5.5 qts. Lots of discussion on this topic in previous threads. But, since the oil change I've been checking the level consistently for being too low/too high.. Seems my 2012 Taco will take 5.5 qts... My choice will be to let the dealer complete the Toyota Maintenance for tire rotation, etc. The oil is my passion.
     
  4. litegide24

    litegide24 Well-Known Member

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    Here are a few pictures, It's kind of hard to see since this oil is so clear but this is where 5.5 quarts of Mobile 1 0W-20 is on the dipstick. It's about 1/4" above the full dot.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    With 5 1/2 quarts it's Full. I did let every drop drip from the pan, I even jacked it to see if another drop would flow from the filter or pan. What you see in the pictures is what my 2011 (2.7) looks like with new oil, I did run it after five quarts, then 5.25 quarts and then after what is now 5.5 quarts.

    I'm curious to see what somebodys dipstick looks like after they add 6.1 quarts, actually one dealer change they had six quarts (on the receipt) and was way to much for me, cant remember exactly but vaguely recall it like 1" + or more over, was smeared as usaul but I didnt waste to much time before I had it changed again.

    I do have two questions if anybody knows...
    1. Do you use a torque wrench on the drain plug bolt?
    2. What is the part number (and store) of the filter wrench to get the oem filter off, this last one was rough. It would be nice to have a wrench.

    Thanks
     
  5. Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    I replaced my drain plug with a Fumoto drain valve.
    unlock and 1/4 turn and it's draining.

    But to answer the question, no... I've never used a TqW on an oil drain bolt, but I've been wrenching since 1967 or so when I was 3 or 4 and dad had me help him change the oil in the '53 Buick, so I've got a pretty good feel.

    Don't know the part number, but the cap wrench that fits is marketed at Pep Boys as fitting the Chrysler Sprinter... a bit of an oddball with a more domed shape than their other wrenches, but honestly, a good strap wrench or even those long handled channel lock type grippers are a better way to go.
     
  6. kcendereurt

    kcendereurt Member

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    Work in progress. Extang tonneau cover, MB TKO 16" wheels with Hankook MT 245/70/16 tires, bed mat, UltraGauge, K&N drop in air filter, Amsoil Synthetic XL motor oil and filter, removable Fia' Bug Screens for front grill ; ARB winch bumper replacement installed; KC fog lights; Bilstien 5100's on front set to level out weight of bumper.
    Torque wrench setting for oil pan drain plug is 28 ft/pds. Whenever I removed the oil pan drain plug for the first time it appeared to be just about the same amount of torque from the factory. To me, it seems a bit 'light' but, following the torque guidelines, I've never stripped a drain plug. I am seriously considering what Rich91710 has done in replacing the plug with a Fumoto drain valve.
     
  7. litegide24

    litegide24 Well-Known Member

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    I am going to look into the cost and availability of the drain valve, which would make things easier but then again there is the dreaded filter swap.

    I was looking at torque wrenches, seem to need it and never have it, don't want to spend $100 either. Do I get 3/8" drive or 1/2" size, just want easyntomread foot pounds, no metric ispreferred, and the click type.

    Thanks
     
  8. Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    The Fumoto is not expensive at all.
    Personally, I got the one without the hose nipple.
    The drain is vertical, and the valve is protected behind and just above the crossmember.
    With the drain being vertical, there's no need to attach a hose to it to direct the flow unless you have a skidplate blocking it.

    The lever is on the side of the valve, so it is quite well protected. I've used either the Fumoto or Fram Sure-Drain on every vehicle I've owned since 2000.

    Tacoma (and all other Toyotas newer than 1993 except for Land Cruiser) takes the F-103.

    This place sells them for about $29 shipped - http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

    This one is a half a buck cheaper, but also offers USPS Priority shipping for $2.50 more, so $32 will get it there in a couple of days.
    http://www.oildrainvalve.net/categories/Valves/Order-by-engine/Import-Vehicles/Toyota/
     
  9. Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    The problem with wanting "just one" is the range of adjustments and useful range. Torque wrenches are most accurate in the center 60% or so of their adjustment range, and I really don't like using them in the bottom or top 10% or so.

    If I were buying "just one", I'd get one in a 3/8" drive with a 10-80 ft/lbs range. That'll cover spark plugs and most other engine parts. You'll want something bigger for lug nuts and some suspension parts.

    I own 5...
    1/4" drive in inch/lbs (admittedly you don't need this)
    3/8" drive in inch/lbs (25-250, equals 2-20 ft/lbs)
    3/8" drive in ft/lbs (10-80)
    1/2" drive in ft/lbs (20-150)
    And "The Beast".... 1/2" drive that ranges 50-250 ft/lbs.

    My 10-80 3/8" is the workhorse for spark plugs and such. I think I paid about $75 for it.
    My 1/4" drive is pretty much used only for torquing the cam bearing caps on my dirtbike. Aluminum cap, aluminum head, NO BEARING... the cam rides on the bare aluminum, and it takes about 5 ft/lbs or 60 in/lbs. Going to 7ft/lbs will smash the cap and gall the cam and bearing surface.

    Always, always, always... When done working, release the tension on the adjuster... loosen the handle all the way to the lowest setting. Some will indicate "Park"
     
  10. litegide24

    litegide24 Well-Known Member

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    Good Good Great info for a torque wrench novice. When doing the rear calipers on my daughters car I needed one (last week). When putting the wheels on I needed one. The sears click type is 79.99 for the Micro-torque. I know I'd need both if I use them for lugs but we have 4 vehicles in this house so I need to tart doing the maintenance myself or we will all be walking.

    Back to he oil valves, which ones :confused: I'd let to get it for the following cars, 2009 Honda Accord Ex (4 cyl), 2011 Toyota Prerunner (4 cyl), 2004 Toyota Solara (4 cyl), 2001 Chevy Tahoe (V8). They don't have a car spec sheet.

    Dimensions of Valves & Adapters
    F-Series Regular Valve --- L - 7/8" in Length, H - 15/16" in Height
    F- Series N-Type Valve(w/Nipple) --- L - 1-1/2" in Length, H - 15/16" in Height
    F-Series Regular Adapters(ADP-104,106,107,108,109) --- L - 9/16" in Length
    F-Series Long Adapter(ADL-106 only) --- L - 15/16" in Length
    FG- Series & T-Series Regular Valve --- L - 1-1/8" in Length, H - 1-1/2" in Height
    FG- Series & T-Series N-Type Valve(w/Nipple) --- L - 2-1/4" in Length, H - 1- 1/2" in Height.

    I could be overcomplicating but since it's shipped it's best to be right he first time.
     
  11. Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Just get the standard F103.

    The "N" has the hose nipple... not needed unless you need to route around a skidplate, or you have a vehicle designed in the UK that puts the drain directly above the frame.

    The adapter simply moves the valve away from the pan if your bolt is recessed.
    The FG/T/N valves have a 90-degree exit for pans that have the drain bolt on the side.


    For the torque wrench, you're looking at $150 to $200 total for two that'll cover you... 3/8 in 10-80 and 1/2" in 20-150.
    I bought "The Beat" when I had my Duramax... it's lug nuts take more torque than my 2.7 Tacoma makes :D
    Now, the only thing it is used for is the clutch hub nut and swingarm on my motorcycle which takes 120ft/lbs.
    Since it's out, I'll use it for the axles which take 80, but the 20-150 would be fine for those.
     
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