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Tacoma 2wd Front Brakes

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by nguyen, Feb 3, 2009.

  1. Feb 3, 2009 at 7:37 AM
    #1
    nguyen

    nguyen [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2009
    Member:
    #13242
    Messages:
    2
    Gender:
    Male
    Atlanta, GA
    Vehicle:
    01 Tacoma SR5
    I'm not really sure where to post this or revive an old thread and I've searched but theres not too much specific for 2wd Tacos, so here goes ...

    I've got an 01 Tacoma Xtra Cab 2wd (4 cyl manual) w/ 115k miles.

    Stock pads died at 60k (I thought it was pretty good) so I replaced them with some OEM TRD pads and now they're up for replacement at 115k

    Stock rotors were turned for the first time at 80k and needs to be replaced now at 115k. I was lazy the first time and didn't think I needed to have the rotors turned when I replaced the pads but it sucked when I had to pull them off at 80k. The rotors are actually attached to the hub so you have to remove everything (bearings and all) in order to get to it. A local shop put them on the machine and resurfaced them for $10; however, they had to turn the rotors attached to the hub. They also told me that it was pretty close to the minimum tolerance and should be replaced soon.

    OEM Rotors $75 each + shipping
    OEM Pads $55 for a pair + shipping
    --------------------------
    Total $205 + ship

    I got quotes to have a local shop do it and they wanted $350-370, dealer wanted $380 (+ tax).




    Questions:
    • Is it really worth it to not go OEM for the price difference?
    • Are the hawk pads (seen on forums) that much better than the OEMs?
    • Brembo vs. Autozone vs. OEM rotors? 1/2 the price = 1/2 the quality?
    • Can I just bolt on the new rotors and start driving or will I they need to be turned since the hub and rotor are bolted together?
    • Should I go ahead and replace the wheel bearings too?
    • Do bearings need to be "repacked"?
    • Is it really necessary to flush the brake fluid at the same time (I haven't even really needed to top it off)?
    I rarely tow and really dont drive that fast anymore. Rotors probably warped early because I'd slow from 90-100mph often (i know it was stupid). [​IMG]

    The pictures below are from when I turned the rotors at 80k. This sucks because if I had a 4x4 more people would know what I'm talking about but since it's a 4x2 there aren't as many people on the forums. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    • Gotten half of the calipers out of the way
    • Rotor was free but had no idea how to take it off until I realized that the whole hub had to come off!
    • Removed Grease Cap (cotter pin and crazy bottle cap nut)
    • Removed bolts that attach rotor

    Photo_060207_001.jpg
    Photo_060207_002.jpg
    Photo_060207_003.jpg
    Photo_060207_004.jpg
     
  2. Feb 4, 2009 at 3:38 PM
    #2
    ubermx5

    ubermx5 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 21, 2008
    Member:
    #6783
    Messages:
    264
    Santa Clara CA
    Vehicle:
    98 2.4 5 speed
    K&N Air filter
    1. Replace your break fluid every 1-2 years. no matter what. this can save your life
    2. if you can get Brembo disc
    3. hawk or OEM both are good. OEM will dust less
    4.Bearing need to packed yes... get good grease and rubber gloves
    5. I would not turn the rotors just bolt them on, but clean them with break clearer
    6. get new coter pins for sure
    7. get new seals for the back of the hib
    8. Adjust and clean your rear brakes as well if you have drums and adjust e-brake cable if you can.

    I hope this help..
     
  3. Feb 4, 2009 at 6:03 PM
    #3
    matthew5olson

    matthew5olson Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2008
    Member:
    #11782
    Messages:
    484
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    matthew
    pittsburgh, PA
    Vehicle:
    04 ext cab 3.4L 5spd 4x4 sr5
    K&N cold air intake, doug thorley headers, rear sensor simulator, flowmaster 40 series, magnecor plug wires, Royal Purple synthetic gear lube, airaid throttle body spacer, Hyperground system, flex-a-lite elec fan.
    Thanks ubermx for that. I have an '04 and the brakes and rotors needed changed. I have a 4x4 and frequently haul equipment and tow trailers. My driving is economical most of the time though. I don't abuse the brakes. I have a standard and use it to help me stop when needed. Any advice you would change with my circumstances. I was going to get ray-bestos pads. Where do they rank.

    Also to nguyen, completely bleeding brake lines (until all the old fluid and residue is gone) can greatly impact your braking. You can actually feel the difference.
     
  4. Feb 5, 2009 at 9:26 AM
    #4
    ubermx5

    ubermx5 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 21, 2008
    Member:
    #6783
    Messages:
    264
    Santa Clara CA
    Vehicle:
    98 2.4 5 speed
    K&N Air filter
  5. Feb 16, 2009 at 11:06 AM
    #5
    matthew5olson

    matthew5olson Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2008
    Member:
    #11782
    Messages:
    484
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    matthew
    pittsburgh, PA
    Vehicle:
    04 ext cab 3.4L 5spd 4x4 sr5
    K&N cold air intake, doug thorley headers, rear sensor simulator, flowmaster 40 series, magnecor plug wires, Royal Purple synthetic gear lube, airaid throttle body spacer, Hyperground system, flex-a-lite elec fan.
    Thanks ubermx5 I will probably end up with some hawk pads. Saw you had a manual as well. My clutch started slipping. Its time to look for a new clutch kit. any advice as to what brand. also should i resurface my flywheel or buy a new one with my new kit. Thanks
     
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