Tacoma 4.0L hard to start when warm

Not yet. Does that need to be changed at a certain mileage (barring any issues before then)?

 

I don't know. Honestly, I always heard you could pull them, spray some carb cleaner through them, and if you shook them and they rattled they were good. On these new vehicles it appears that's not the case. In my research some people just go ahead and change them every 30k since they are under $10 and easy to access.

I am amazed at the difference in my idle speed with this change. I'm sure my fuel economy is going to go up. The truck sounded like a jet engine before. I haven't been around enough Tacomas to realize it wasn't supposed to sound like that.

 

Got any pics or info on where this PCV valve is and how to change it??

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/pcv-valve-replacement.234196/

This thread has all the info. It's driver side, near the firewall. It's got a black vacuum line going into it.

Just take the vacuum line off, use a deep 19mm socket with a 3 inch extension. Remove old one. Start new one by hand to make sure it doesn't cross thread. Tighten down, but there will be threads still exposed due to the design and torque spec. Took less than 5 minutes since you don't have to remove anything to access it.

AutoZone does not carry them, actually the manager argued with me that there wasn't a pcv valve on my truck. I pulled up the part number from Napa to show him. Ended up going to O'Reilly's since it was close to home and they had to order one for me.

 

Sweet thanks! Did you use the same part as the OEM?

 

They cross referenced the part number at O'Reilly's and I got some generic one for like 6 bucks. They are just as cheap at the dealership, so I will probably go there next time. I'm going to try to replace mine every 20 to 30k

 

The pcv didn't not fix my issue with starting. Back to the drawing board

 

You mean this?

 

Sorry to hear that man! But at least you helped lower your rpms with that pcv fix.

 

That's what it feels like. It'd be alot easier if they would've put a damned fuel pressure port on this thing. Between that and no transmission dipstick I'm losing faith in the Japanese...

But yeah, I am happy it's idling better. Should help my fuel economy. I checked most of the vacuum lines for any leaks, didnt find any. Really thinking it's the fpr, I wish I new somebody locally that had a Tacoma and I'd just swap my for with theirs and see if that fixes it.

 

I'd don't think the fpr was very expensive and it's super easy to replace however, it did not fix my issue.
So far with the new fuel Pump relay starts normal every time. I'll let y'all know if it stays that way.
And..... This morning same long start.
so that wasn't it, I'll be doing crank sensor and WP today

 

Where did you buy your fuel pump relay? Denso?

 

Your truck was having trouble starting when cold though correct?

 

@boogie3478 i got it on Amazon. But it's didn't fix it.
@Fike yes long start when cold.
Mine extended cranks intermittently when it hasn't been driven. After the initial long start it starts fine. Sometimes after work (been sitting 10 hrs) it starts long again.

 

Hmm long starts when cold could be a battery/starter/alternator issue. I think Advance Auto Parts tests all 3 of those for free.

 

So, I'm testing the pump relay today. There is another identical relay so I swapped them. I'll let it sit for a couple of hours and then go see how it starts.

My one concern with it being fuel related is, if it is losing fuel pressure causing the hard start when warm, it should still have no pressure when cold, so why does it start fine cold?

 

Yeah it's bizarre ... which is why I think it might be a bad ECT sensor ... but then it "should" throw a code if that were the case.

 

I'm going to try to test my ect today to see if it's bad.

Also, I picked up a Haynes manual for th2005 to 2015 Tacoma and it shows a way to do a fuel pressure test at a quick connect fitting without adding any taps or adaptors.

 

@boogie3478
I have read that a bad starter will pull some wierd shit "loading the electrical system" and causing start issues. I just don't think this is my issue
My battery voltage is good at rest and while cranking. I'll post a video if I can figure out how

 

First test of my ect is showing 639 ohms at 122 degrees. I'll let it cool down some more and see where we get

Second reading, 102 degrees and 930 ohms. According to a chart I found online, I am slightly below the standard for both of these temperatures. Maybe that is why I'm having an issue, but not low enough to throw a code?

I just had a long start, so it wasn't the fuel pump relay...