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Tacoma 4.0L hard to start when warm

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Fike, Jul 15, 2017.

Page 5 of 15
  1. Jul 20, 2017 at 4:39 PM
    #81
    Radarninja

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    Radarninja Safety 3rd

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    Okay y'all I changed the water pump, all idler pulleys AND the crank pos. Sensor ... what a pain.
    I'll let you know how shit goes with the starts.
     
    Radarninja, Jul 20, 2017
    #81
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  2. Jul 20, 2017 at 4:49 PM
    #82
    Fike

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    Fike [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, keep us updated. Tomorrow I'm going to try to test fuel pressure, and I've got a buddy at an auto parts store that said he can loan me a coolant temp sensor so I'll try to do that too
     
    Fike, Jul 20, 2017
    #82
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  3. Jul 21, 2017 at 1:59 PM
    #83
    Fike

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    Fike [OP] Well-Known Member

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    20170721_143250.jpg so here is my frankensteined fuel pressure gauge...

    But I beliveve I've narrowed it down to a bad fuel pressure regulator. I am getting 41 psi while running which is right in line with what it should be, but when I shut it off it dropped to 10 within about 3 minute.

    So I cranked it back up and got the pressure back up. Then I clamped off the return fuel line so no fuel could go back to the tank. This would isolate an injector leak. So far after 5 minutes it's only dropped to 38 psi. The Haynes manual states as long as it hold above 21 psi after shutoff everything is good.

    About to see if Napa has a regulator in stock. I did change out coolant temp sensor with no change in startup

    Tried to test it one more time and the regulator was holding pressure. So I checked and the damned loan a tool pressure gauge isn't working right...
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2017
    Fike, Jul 21, 2017
    #83
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  4. Jul 21, 2017 at 2:30 PM
    #84
    boogie3478

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    boogie3478 Well-Known Member

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    Sweet, progress! If you get a link for that regulator please post it here. :)
     
    boogie3478, Jul 21, 2017
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  5. Jul 21, 2017 at 2:38 PM
    #85
    Fike

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    Fike [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well now I'm not so sure. It seems to be holding pressure. I wonder if a "stuck" fpr can unstick itself.

    Pressure has dropped from 41 psi to 33 psi after 5 minutes sitting. The Haynes manual says this is acceptable
     
    Fike, Jul 21, 2017
    #85
  6. Jul 21, 2017 at 3:24 PM
    #86
    Radarninja

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    Radarninja Safety 3rd

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    After changing crank pos. Sensor yesterday. This morning I had the dreaded long start. So that's a no go.
     
    Radarninja, Jul 21, 2017
    #86
  7. Jul 21, 2017 at 3:36 PM
    #87
    Fike

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    Fike [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Have you changed ect?

    I also tested all my relays and they all checked out good. I'm not fully confident in the fuel pressure test. I had to fit so many pieces together and it was the free gauges, which seemed pretty cheap.

    Boogie, you need to video it doing the long start and add it to your YouTube channel, might get more ideas of things to check
     
    Fike, Jul 21, 2017
    #87
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  8. Jul 21, 2017 at 4:18 PM
    #88
    Radarninja

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    Radarninja Safety 3rd

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    I haven't changed ECT. I leaning toward that VVT sensor and MAF. Next I suppose.
    My truck will be new when I'm done
     
    Radarninja, Jul 21, 2017
    #88
  9. Jul 21, 2017 at 4:33 PM
    #89
    Fike

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    Fike [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Have you ever cleaned you MAF?

    Mine was pretty damned dirty so I cleaned it up good. Obviously didn't help the long crank, but did make me feel better, haha
     
    Fike, Jul 21, 2017
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  10. Jul 21, 2017 at 5:10 PM
    #90
    Drivesector

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    Drivesector Well-Known Member

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    I know this sounds silly but it won't cost you anything. When you crank and it doesn't start does the red immobilizer light flash at all. Try a different key for a couple of days? I hate to see you just put parts in it, it's going to end up being something stupid most likely. Problems like this usually turn into something you wouldn't even consider. I was hoping it was the fuel issue.
     
    Drivesector, Jul 21, 2017
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  11. Jul 21, 2017 at 5:18 PM
    #91
    Fike

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    Fike [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'll try my other set of keys on it.

    I'm sure it's something silly, and I still think it might be fuel related. I don't completely trust the results of the pressure test. I don't think the gauge I got was working right, and since I had to rig up the fitting so much, there was alot of room for error.

    I wish someone could post up some instructions with part numbers on adding a test port. There has got to be something easy to install out there.

    Luckily the only think I've really purchased was some MAF cleaner and the pcv, everything else I've either rented or borrowed.
     
    Fike, Jul 21, 2017
    #91
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  12. Jul 21, 2017 at 5:23 PM
    #92
    Drivesector

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    Drivesector Well-Known Member

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    Drivesector, Jul 21, 2017
    #92
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  13. Jul 21, 2017 at 5:27 PM
    #93
    12TRDTacoma

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    12TRDTacoma Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Fuel pump.
     
    12TRDTacoma, Jul 21, 2017
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  14. Jul 21, 2017 at 5:35 PM
    #94
    Fike

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    Fike [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Is this directed at me?
     
    Fike, Jul 21, 2017
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  15. Jul 21, 2017 at 5:40 PM
    #95
    Fike

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    Fike [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I remember that now. I saw it, but 60 bucks plus shipping is pretty pricy for a fitting. And it doesn't even come with the Schrader valve which doesn't really make sense to me.
     
    Fike, Jul 21, 2017
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  16. Jul 21, 2017 at 6:21 PM
    #96
    12TRDTacoma

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    Yessir. Lol. It's your fuel pump. These are the early signs of impending doom.
     
    12TRDTacoma, Jul 21, 2017
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  17. Jul 21, 2017 at 6:30 PM
    #97
    Fike

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    Fike [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Even if i have good pressure all the time? I was figuring it was the pressure regulator, since it maintained the right pressure once I clamped it off. I'm not doubting you, just nothing I've found leads me to think its the pump itself. Can you elaborate on why you think it is?

    Also, just a general question, but when I pinch of my return line, my fuel pressure stayed steady at 41 psi. I've read that it should spike, but can't find any info on what could cause it to stay at 41.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2017
    Fike, Jul 21, 2017
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  18. Jul 21, 2017 at 8:25 PM
    #98
    iLLogics

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    iLLogics Well-Known Member

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    A few months ago my sisters daily car had a problem like this, turned out to be a weak fuel pump and the gasket that seats the fuel pump to the fuel pump housing/sending unit. The regulator and fuel rail damper where doing there job just fine. The car is a 2006 scion tc the crank position sensor was also out of spec when testing with a volt meter. (Testing ohm). Just more stuff to look at.
     
    iLLogics, Jul 21, 2017
    #98
  19. Jul 22, 2017 at 9:42 AM
    #99
    Fike

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    Fike [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I think I'm going to go ahead and order the urd fitting and redo my fuel pressure test. Summit racing have a 1/8 not Schrader valve made for fuel. Hopefully I can get it all together in the next couple weeks and retest
     
    Fike, Jul 22, 2017
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  20. Jul 22, 2017 at 8:43 PM
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    Torspd

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    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Fuel pump as well. I believe I had stated that the check valve in the OEM pump was not holding pressure like it should. Your test proves this.

    The regulator is working properly by maintaining the proper fuel pressure, while the system is activated. There is no check valve in it though. So replacing it will leave you with the same outcome.

    Add in a fuel line check valve, and that will keep your fuel in the line, as close to the pump as possible. (Normal addition to aftermarket fuel systems.)

    Or upgrade your pump. Byproduct is removing the intank filter and having a serviceable external one.
     
    Torspd, Jul 22, 2017
    #100
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