Tacoma Rear Disc Brakes

Bleeding the system can take a little patience, but the system requires far less continual maintenance/tuning than cantilever brakes. You really only have to bleed them when you replace the pads. Cantilever brakes fall out of spec much easier (when impacted, cable stretch, pivot points become loose, etc).

They are simpler because they are a hydraulic pressure system mounted on the hub/frame that don't rely on cable tension, pivot points, and wheel truing.

I'm actually excited about boost hubs and the extra stiffness of spoke/wheels.

 

I had to chuckle at myself... In recollection, I'm always working on other peoples bikes and mostly on cheap stuff because the cheaper bikes always have crap going out of adjustment. If I could only get my kids to understand that they can't lay their bikes down on the deraileurs. On my own bikes of higher quality (deore xt/105/600 this dates me) I can't ever recall having to adjust any of the brakes other for when the pads got wore out.

 

no, what I meant by "all factors are controlled for" was that they are brand new cars, so all the factors you listed off, meaning the wear on all the different parts, was minimal if there was any, so the only differences between them are design differences, not current wear or maintenance history related issues. It means that the differences in stopping distance and pedal feel are a result of the tuning of the brake system basically. Tuning refers here to the choice of rotor/caliper size front & back, master cylinder size, brake booster function as you pointed out etc. Now when it comes to the tuning of the brakes, ive been able to surmise through my apparently very brief and insignificant amount of seat time that even the Porsche Cayenne, weighing in at just over 6000 lbs or roughly 1500 more than a taco, still brakes significantly better and with much more consistent feel. As I stated before, all I wanted to do was learn a little more about brakes, and maybe improve my stopping distances a little. With my suspension tuning where it is I've been noticing more how the brakes are the biggest thing still holding my truck back and figured this might be the thread to find out more. Thanks for the tip about the brake booster, oh and sorry to hear about your truck by the way.

 

You guys argue about the stupidest shit.. . You want rear disc brakes, buy something other than a taco.

End of thread.

 

really??? i was wondering the same thing when i got mine, but i guess it makes sense

 

I was being highly sarcastic

 

apparently, i'm slow... good to know.

 

I haven't had any stopping issues I'm sure you will be fine

 

Im having fun with this discussion so I will keep it going.

When you say the Cayenne has better braking, as in significantly better, what does that mean? Consistent feel is just that, a feeling which is subjective and not exactly related to stopping distance or performance.

So when you say better, does that mean it stops sooner? in less amount of distance? With or without ABS activation? Because if it does stop in less distance, I will submit to you that is entirely because of tire selection. To control for all factors would mean that you would put the exact same tire, of the same age, on your Taco, and do the same braking test at the same temperature on the same exact surface from the exact same speed (speedo's calibrated perfectly???) as you did the Cayenne. I'm guessing you didn't do this, I'm guessing that you didn't have the same tires on each vehicle.

Now, if you "had" controlled for the tires between the cayenne and the taco, and you had a difference in stopping DISTANCE, then you can start analyzing the differences in terms of ABS activation, ABS cycling rate, WHEEL WEIGHT, TIRE WEIGHT, suspension dive/spring rate/dampening, and then control for those, before I would even begin to make a conclusion on disc brake versus drum brake on a rear axle.

IF you are talking about brake fade, after multiple high speed applications of brakes, and controlled for that ONLY AFTER the above were controlled for, then maybe you might get somewhere with finding out if drums are limiting your abilities in a racing scenario.

If you want to improve your stopping distance, the first place you should look is your tires.

If you can lock your brakes, and get the ABS to come on, then your brakes are working, and they won't work any harder than that.

If you are having issues with the rears locking up and can't get the fronts to lock up, then you have a brake bias problem, and maybe need more stopping power in the front, definitely not the rear.

Now, if you are having problems getting your brakes to even lock up at all, then only at that point should you be looking at brake piston size/disc size/ drum vs disc/ brake bias adjustments.

 

A Cayman does not weigh 6,000 lbs

 

I did, my taco is riding on Michelin premier ltxs on 20s as well.

I said CAYENNE not CAYMAN. A Cayenne s weighs 6,005 lbs as delivered

 

He probably means pedal feel, overall performance under high operating temps, initial bite from the pads, and how they feel the more you push down on the pedal

 

my bad, i was like dude your crazy!

 

Ok now we are getting somewhere. What are the stopping distances between the two vehicles?

I'm guessing that the cayenne is much more tightly sprung so it doesn't throw it's weight on the fronts near as much as the Taco does. You're tuning your truck for offroad racing to, what has that done to your spring rates and nose dive characteristics.

Im guessing your taco is going into abs activation in the rear and the fronts aren't at that point yet. Press harder on the brake pedal.

 

Suspension tuning should be just about on point on the taco. Riding on fox 2.5 coilovers with dsc's and 2.5" shocks with dsc's in the rear. No appreciable nose dive or roll through corners present during normal driving and I really can't womp on the brakes hard enough to get them to lock up and that's essentially where I know they have more to give with this tire setup. One thing that just occurred to me is for running the Baja I'll likely be rocking some different tires which means both suspension and brake tuning will need a do-over at that point. I've been looking into the brake booster and it looks like the electric brake booster from the TRD Off-road would be the sort of upgrade I am looking for, I see now what you meant about how a diaphragm based brake booster is naturally going to let off the pressure while you're sitting there but to me this makes the brakes feel mushy and doesn't exactly give me a whole lot of confidence in their ability to withstand abuse, whether that's a legitimate gripe or not that's the feeling I get. Anyone know if that system would be as simple as a master cylinder and booster swap or if there would be a whole lot more that would go into it?

 

Have you though about upgrading the pads and fluid?

 

Pads are in the next mod group I'm going to try so I'll know more about that soon enough. Im trying some EBC greenstuff 'supreme' truck compound pads, cryo treated rotors, and installing the new and improved all pro sway bar end links which now supposedly won't come undone and murder CV axle boots. What fluid would be considered an upgrade, dot 4?

 

ate type 200 would be a good way to go

 

these guys look like they sell a conversion kit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mO1zXrgNwr4

 

If mikes reasoning is they perform better for off roading then make all 4 wheels drums. how come the wrangler has discs ? Ohh wait I know I know !!!! It’s because they are saving money on building the truck that way. Toyota thinks everyone is an idiot