Tacoma Rear Disc Brakes

Really?

Point #1

You're calling me out knowing about performance (rear disc crap) and you passed on the OR Taco for a Sport, which means you didn't find the rear locker and the Crawl control of any value? But the hood scoop was better? Come on man this getting out of control. Lol


I can start but I'm sure you're not going to want me to.

 

I opted for the manual and will be installing an aftermarket diff and gears, if not a whole axle after the issues that have been popping up. Time will tell

 

I got 89,000 on my drum brakes in my 96 T-100 that I had 14 years..

 

I bought the Offroad and feel the drum brake is superior in its application. I'm glad that the drum brake is there. If you ever had to park a truck hanging off the side of a mountain you will be glad for the rear drum brake.

As for Toyota cheating on cost. The drum brake and its integration in Toyota's traction control and ABS system are far more costly than a disk brake system. Toyota even added the extra booster that the base models didn't have to up the anti. Just add up all the pieces and add up the labor to assemble. I have been working on brake systems for over 40 years and would rather work on disk brake systems rather than drums but rear drum brakes on this Tacoma Offroad model with its integrated braking /traction control is the right application in the right place.

If you want to strip the guts out of the Tacoma's rear axle and add disc brakes to the rear go for it but don't ever believe the drum brakes are a cost cutting move. People who spiel that crap don't know beans about labor and modern manufacturing.

 

Didn't realize they had put much more money into the brakes between model years. Also I get that in some applications drums are great in the rear, and that those applications describe the average Tacomas expected life pretty well such as offroading, driving around normally, light towing, putting dirtbikes, ATVs, motorcycles, etc in the bed, stuff like that. Taco stuff. But I'm going a bit of a different direction with my build and over the course of a desert race the disc brakes in the rear are going to resist fade better by cooling more efficiently.that and as archerm3 mentioned, with the use of an adjustable brake bias controller one could tune the bias of the brakes to perform better with the new parts

 

The rear drums on my 2nd gen Tacoma we're a problem offroad. When I used the parking brake it would jam on because the drums would collect pebbles, sand, dirt etc. Glad I bought a truck with 4 wheel discs.

 

Drum brakes work. If some of you want discs then spend the 1000$ plus 800$ labor and get some.

 

What truck do you have now that has 4 wheel disc brakes?

And how big of a pebble made its way into your drums.

Emphasis on the second question.

 

It's not that drums are cheaper, it's the fact that the Tacoma has had them since 2005 and Toyota didn't want to spend the money to covert to disc. That's where they cheaped out. I can't wait till they finally change over to disc, and they will someday, and hear all the fanboys extoll the benefits of disc brakes ha ha.

 

Rear disc brakes suck. Just watch this youtube video for proof (skip to 6:50):

 

If ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

2010 Frontier Pro-4x. Pebbles, a bit coarser than beach sand.

 

Don't think that pebbles can't mess up a disc brake either. As in working its way into a front piston seal like it did on my M3.

 

Since the Baja 1000 isn't really "track" racing, if you wanted to enter it (Tacoma) in any production class you'd have no reason to change the drum brakes either. It's constant enough at speed that the rear brakes would have little impact in the race. A bias valve and improved fronts would have far more bearing in Baja race trim than the rear drums.

Your money would be much more well spent on custom valved suspension over brakes for some Baja racing.

 

Disc brakes on MTB's operate in the very same fashion geometrically as the old calipers of yore. The difference is that the brakes are closer to the center of the hub, to get them out of the mush and muck, and to isolate them from the runout of less than perfect rims, and to keep the pretty pretty rims from getting scuffed up. And the bike manufacturers went to a lot of trouble and expense to perfect the systems, even still they remain EXPENSIVE, heavy, difficult to maintain, and complex. All for some questionable benefit. I did all my bike racing in the early 90s, the ONLY time I wanted something more in a brake for road racing or MTB racing was in the mucky mudfests where the calipers built up clobs of mud. Modulation and ability to lock up the brakes was never a problem with the old style calipers.

 

Disc brakes on mountain bikes are far easier to maintain, simpler, and way more performant than cantilever brakes. So I'm not clear what your argument is here.

 

How do you know all the variables are controlled for in everything you've driven? What does that even mean? Are you saying everything you've driven had the exact same stopping distance, pedal feel, etc?

You need to look at your Tacoma's brake booster and see how it works to understand the pedal POSITION and what you seem to be thinking is a loss of pedal pressure is actually how the booster works.

I don't believe your racing experience leads to much as I've never met a racer who didn't understand brakes like your posts would imply.

Aston Martin, well LA TEE DA

 

Don't see how you think mTB disc brakes are easier and simpler. Bleeding seems to me a lot more difficult than cable adjusters and cinch pins. I'll give you the brake pad positioning on the calipers.

I also mourn the loss of dish on one side of the wheels and how wide axles have to be getting.

 

Making more sense now.