Tacoma Shock Relocation - Trail Series - 2.0 x 12 - 2nd/3rd gen

I am getting ready to install a set of these.

This was probably mentioned earlier (too lazy to look) - what is the "easiest" way to remove the stock upper shock mounts? Air chisel, cut, combination both?

 

I say cut off wheel and air chisel. Try to cut towards a bracket (parallel to frame or axle)

 

@plurpimpin

Have you measured the clearance between tire and shock at full stuff? Thanks.

 

More or less what I was thinking.

Once the bracket is cut, how difficult is it to pop the spot welds with an air chisel?

 

I didn’t measure but I can fit my hand/fat fingers in between the tire and shock at full stuff.

 

Ok thanks. Think it’s 1/2” at least?

 

at least. Probably more like an inch.

 

.

 

Has anyone ran this kit with the Chevy 63 leaf pack? Was thinking it was possible to fit some 14" travels with this setup?

 

Would be a great fit together, and you could easily run a 2.0 × 14". I recommend a Fox Performance series 2.0x14.1" remote reservoir custom valved by @AccuTune Offroad

 

Been reading and haven’t found the info yet but will keep reading.

in the chance someone knows, would like to ask:

what’s the best relocate?
Tacomabeast says 2.5x12
-that HD packs flex out to 12”, therefore pick 12 and not 14 (SOA such as RXT)
-and that 2.5 > 2.0 due to same damping, but more fluid to resist fade

however, Accutune tells me 2.0 is preferable on a light Tacoma. Versus a heavy truck smashing dunes. That more fluid is harder to cycle through essentially meaning it would ride worse. I trust their expertise more than tacomabeast.

what’s everyone pay for welding install?

also trying to figure out what spacers would be needed.
-intended use: off roading such as rocks. Not jumping dunes
-current wheels and tires are Method 701 17x8.5, I believe 0 offset 4.75” BS

when I type in the truck in SpiderTrax (seems like the best quality spacer company), they only list one size. 1.25”

hopefully that would be enough…

edit: I hear Bora and SpiderTrax are the two best spacer companies. Even though SpiderTrax only lists 1.25” ($200 set?), Bora has a lot more sizes. Worth nothing higher cost $92/ea if it’s 2” for example making a set of those spacers from them basically $400.

 

2.5" is definitely the premium option. 2.5" is great for street comfort as well when valved by Accutune.
However 2.0" are also quite good, when valved by Accutune, and very affordable.

This Trail 2.0 relocation requires about 1" less wheel spacer, because tower is very tight to wheelwell. Wheel & tire combo examples in posted in post #1

 

@ARCHIVE

Deaver Stage 1 with 3.6" shackles and poly bushings, HH and U-bolt Option 3. Everything went together perfectly as with all Archive Garage products!

The truck has about 300 constant added to rear axle. The axle tube is 10.25" from the bottom of the frame rail, so it gained exactly 2" lift with the Stage 1.
With the shocks disconnected, the springs will droop to 9" gap between the bump stop and frame pad. The bump stop will compress 1.75" at full bump. The u-bolts are cut 1/2" below full bump stop compression, or 2.25" lower than the top of the bump stop while not compressed. There is 3.4" between the top of the bump stop and the frame pad at ride height.

Bump travel before contact at ride height: 3.4"
Bump travel after contact: 1.75"
Total bump travel: 5.15"
10.75" spring travel

I have not measured under articulation, do option 3 bump stops compress further than 1.75" when articulated?

Droop might be limited by my +2" brake lines, instead of the suggested +4" or +6". I disconnected the tab from the axle but they were still tight at droop with shocks off. The +2" were a bad buy on my part a couple years ago lol. Looks like the 12" shock is the right choice either way. Perhaps later this summer!

 

Nice job laying that out. Were the droop measurements taken with the wheels/tires on the axle?
The rear axle only weighs like 150lbs, but a pair of wheels and tires are usually 200lbs, that obviously affects numbers.

 

Good point. I had measured with wheels/tires off, so I will repeat this later when the time comes after longer brake lines are in.

On the flip side, do the option #3 bumps compress further than 1.75" when articulated? Or is that the max they compress period?

 

Bumps probably won't compress more during articulation, max compression will come during a hard hit at speed

 

sounds like 2.0x12 is the way to go on Icon RXT op3

anyone used a cheaper shock? Dont know if Bilstein has any

I like my 5160. No issues. Good warranty. Doesn’t need yearly rebuilding. But obviously problem is it’s short. Wheel hangs in the air.
Would be curious to know if they have something like that longer
OR if say there’s something like Fox without resi that still holds the same amount of fluid
I think if the rear gets a better shock than the front (6112) and feels different it would feel odd

what are folks paying for install?
One post said with skill it’s 8hr. Shop is likely $160/hr.
And, this isn’t the first or last time truck will need welding on.

so if that truly is the case, well time to get a welder than. Cost less and be actually able to do things at home when needed in the future instead of hands tied.

 

I swapped from 5160s to 5125s and could barely tell a difference in ride, I still havent swapped to chevy leafs and added limit straps yet.

Install took me about 10 hours solo but I absolutely didn't have good tools to cut the top shock mounts off that well.

 

nice
So plasma cutter then would do a lot better than grinder with cutting disc?

 

Would make it a cake walk for sure, i would be scared to use it on the axel though. I used a saw zall will carbide blade. my die grinder was taking a crap on me and I threw it away after this job.