The Does Everything, but Sucks at Everything Build

Sadly I think the only fix is chopping the whole fucking thing out, the cracks just show up in new spots after reinforcing the current weak shit. This took me about 3 weekends to knock out, but should be set for a long time, used 2" 1/8th wall all around.

 

Also, beautiful pics and great areas, headed to the Swell in a few weeks for the first time!

 

Did you just jump right in and start chopping and replacing things? I've been loosely looking for information and tips on how to do it, the whole job seems overwhelming to try to take on all at once though and without the original dimensions before everything starts cracking and falling apart how do you know where everything exactly goes?

 

Do you have more photos of the whole project? I'm curious about the whole thing from start to finish.

 

Here's what I have in my build, I have a few more that are not on there I will add that you can take a look at.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wishbone-runners-build.238998/page-48

As far as the process, I started just cutting out the whole passenger side and trying to mirror the driver side for the alignment with the hood, radiator and fenders, then moved to cutting out the rad support, then the driver. But, this didn't really help the whole alignment as measuring with a tape didn't really get me the correct alignment that I need, so i eventually cut all the stuff I had tacked in place off and just freehanded all of the alignments. The major ones were getting the rad in the right place to not hit the fan, then the fender/lights/hood alignment which was the hardest part to get lined up, and I would say it came out about 90% right - I have a bit more gap than I started with from the bumper to the fenders, and the fenders aren't 100% level with each other.

If I were to do it again, I would find a good reference for the hood height and top of the radiator support from the bumper, then chop everything out starting with the rad support and use the hood as the guide for the lights and fenders which can really only mate together one way. It is definitely a seemingly overwhelming task when you have a pile of parts that don't really have a clear method to go back together, but it just takes some time to line stuff up, tack in place, check clearances, adjust, then repeat - just like every other fab project. It seems like you have a pretty good understanding of fabbing stuff, so it is really the same process, just a bit more daunting. You've already got the battery else where, this is where I spent a LOT of time figuring out placement, support etc.

I started collecting info and pics a few years ago and just decided to jump in, I got some great pics from @Happysmiley which helped a ton and kinda copied his design so that was SUPER helpful. Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

Here's the link to the new core support I was talking about on Saturday.

https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/...rt/2010/Base/6_Cyl_4-dot-0L/WT250120QATG.html

Says it has a 5 year warranty. Not sure how well they would stand behind it after the abuse you't put it through.

*this is for my 2010. There might be a different one for yours with the face lift.

 

I wouldn't have thought something like that would be available for any models. That looks like the whole thing too. Too bad it wouldn't fix all the issues on the front end of these trucks, it would almost be a viable option.

 

Yep. you can get all the sheet metal for up front. Doesn't fix and prevent the problem from happening again, but you can get a straight new one and start over.

 

I think it would work, I'm gathering facelift parts for my 06. Never heard of anyone having to swap that piece.

 

Taking care of little annoyances....

I thought getting a tire warrantied with beadlocks was going to be a pain in the ass, actually turned out not be a problem at all. I bought them from America's Tire but didn't get the full replacement certificates since I didn't know if I was going to keep the tires their whole life or not. When the guy inspected the tire he didn't even check to see if it was actually leaking, just took the tread depth and ordered up the tire for me. Went back a couple days later and picked up the new tire and turned over the damaged one after personally removing it from the wheel.

Photo of the outside of the cut, funny thing is it cut through the thickest part of the sidewall rubber

Photos of the inside of the cut


The beadlock bolts had been installed for less than a year but were already nasty where the threads weren't in contact with the beadlock side

Cleaned up with a wire wheel on a bench grinder

Brand spankin new tire

Done up and have to get it road force balanced still

 

In the quest to make things safer, lazier, and more efficient I went about making the stock jack more convenient to use.

Last time I had to swap a bunch of tires around on a trip to the San Juans I did it with a Hilift. I'm not afraid to use one, but those should be a last resort for everything and don't want to use them if I can avoid it, and trying to jack up the rear axle high enough to change a tire is a sketchy shit show if you've got a lot of down travel.

This last tire that went out I tried to use the stock jack in the Hilift brand base but it didn't fit quite right. I used it anyway but could make some improvements.

I took the stock jack and ground a 1/16" off the sides so it fit down in the recess properly, Then welded a flat piece of sheet metal to the bottom so it doesn't gouge into the plastic base. Next I welded a nut to the end to make it easier to operate the jack with a impact. Previously I was using the stock "hook" welded into a socket but the hook wasn't up to the abuse of being impacted and was starting to wear a bit after just a couple uses




Also took care of an odd rubbing issue in the front. Seemed like if the front was articulated and steering maxed out the tires would occasionally rub on the reservoirs, doesn't happen often but its annoying when it does happen. I ended up moving them closer to the frame. Previously they were about 1/2"-5/8" away from the frame, but I tucked them closer to about 1/8" or less so hopefully the tire lugs don't hit them anymore.

 

Have you had any problems with balancing those tires?

 

Nope, when I took them in for road force balancing last year, the shop guy said everything came out A-OK. Hopefully the new tire does too.

Ask @bullaculla about his 37" MTR balancing fun. Completely different experience.

 

Whachutalkinboutwillis?
3 out of 8 37" MTRs were good!

 

Were you using weights or dynabeads?

 

At first dynabeads, when that didn't work, traditional weights. But the tires were out of round. No amount of weight will make that ride smooth. Goodyear sent me a whole new set of 4, and one of them is still reading 0.050" runout on the road force balancing machine...

Tire shop said 0.030" is acceptable.

 

Yep. I got the out of round tire on the rear. Bed shakes pretty bad on the highway doing little burnouts once in awhile in an effort to either make it round, or wear them out quicker.

 

Many reasons..? They can't be that bad... right?